TED2011
Homaro Cantu + Ben Roche: Cooking as alchemy
ホーマロ・カントゥ＋ベン・ロシェ: 料理の錬金術
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シカゴにあるレストラン「Moto」のシェフ、ホーマロ・カントゥとベン・ロシェは、新しい料理と食べ方を提案しています。この楽しい味との遊びには真面目な動機があります。この新しい食の技術で、世界を良くする事が出来るでしょうか？
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:15
Ben Roche: So I'm Ben, by the way.
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ベン・ロシェ：私はベンです
00:17
Homaro Cantu: And I'm Homaro.
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ホーマロ・カントゥ：私はホーマロです
00:19
BR: And we're chefs. So when Moto
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ベン：私達はシェフで 2004年に
00:21
opened in 2004, people didn't really know
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「Moto」をオ−プンしましたが
00:23
what to expect. A lot of people thought
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これが よく日本料理店に
00:25
that it was a Japanese restaurant, and
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勘違いされました
00:27
maybe it was the name, maybe it was
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おそらく名前や日本語のように見えた
00:29
the logo, which was like a Japanese
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ロゴのせいでしょう
00:31
character, but anyway, we had all these
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とにかく そのため
00:33
requests for Japanese food, which is
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店にない日本料理の
00:35
really not what we did. And after about
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リクエストがずいぶんありました
00:37
the ten thousandth request for a maki roll,
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巻き寿司の注文を1万回ほど
00:39
we decided to give the people
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受けた頃 私達はリクエストに
00:41
what they wanted. So this picture is
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応えようと決心したのです
00:43
an example of printed food, and this was
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これは印刷した食べ物です
00:45
the first foray into what we like to call
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味の変身とでも呼ぶ 初めての
00:47
flavor transformation. So this is all
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挑戦でした 巻きずしの
00:49
the ingredients, all the flavor of, you know,
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材料や全ての風味が
00:51
a standard maki roll, printed onto
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この小さな紙切れに
00:53
a little piece of paper.
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印刷されています
00:55
HC: So our diners started to get bored
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ホーマロ：お客さんは じきに
00:57
with this idea, and we decided to give them
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このアイデアに飽きてきたので
00:59
the same course twice, so here we actually
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同じ料理を２度提供しようと考え
01:02
took an element from the maki roll and
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私達は印刷した巻き寿司と
同じ方法で
同じ方法で
01:04
and took a picture of a dish and then
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料理の写真を撮り
01:06
basically served that picture with the dish.
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実際の料理と一緒に出しました
01:09
So this dish in particular is basically
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この料理は 基本的に
01:11
champagne with seafood.
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シ−フ−ドとシャンペンだけです
01:13
The champagne grapes that you see are
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ご覧のシャンペンは
01:15
actually carbonated grapes. A little bit of
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実際は炭酸化したグレ−プです
01:17
seafood and some crème fraiche and the
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シ−フ−ドと生クリ−ムを加えたこの料理と
01:19
picture actually tastes exactly like the dish. (Laughter)
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この写真は全く同じ味なんです （笑）
01:22
BR: But it's not all just edible pictures.
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ベン：食用の写真だけではありません
01:24
We decided to do something
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食材にちょっと変わった事をして
01:26
a little bit different and transform flavors
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私達のよく知った味に
01:28
that were very familiar -- so in this case,
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変身させてみました 例えば
01:31
we have carrot cake.
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キャロットケ−キです
01:33
So we take a carrot cake, put it
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これをミキサ−にかけ
01:35
in a blender, and we have kind of like
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キャロットケーキジュ−スにし
01:37
a carrot cake juice, and then that went into
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風船に流し込み
01:39
a balloon frozen in liquid nitrogen to create
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液体窒素で凍らせます
01:41
this hollow shell of carrot cake
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中が空洞のキャロットケ−キアイスが
01:44
ice cream, I guess, and it comes off
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できました
01:46
looking like, you know,
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お皿の上に木星が
01:48
Jupiter's floating around your plate.
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浮かんでいるみたいでしょう
01:50
So yeah, we're transforming things into
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私達は素材を変化させ
01:52
something that you have absolutely
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未知の食材を
01:54
no reference for.
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作り出すのです
01:56
HC: And here's something we have no
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ホーマロ：これも私達が
01:58
reference to eat. This is a cigar, and
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食べた経験のないもの
02:00
basically it's a Cuban cigar made out of
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キューバン・ポーク・
サンドイッチから作った
サンドイッチから作った
02:02
a Cuban pork sandwich, so we take these
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キュ−バ葉巻です
02:04
spices that go into the pork shoulder,
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肩肉用のスパイスを
02:06
we fashion that into ash. We take
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灰のように形造り
02:08
the sandwich and wrap it up in
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キュ−バポ−クを
02:10
a collard green, put an edible label
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カラードの葉で巻きます
02:12
that bears no similarity to
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コイーバ・シガ−のラベルを真似た
02:14
a Cohiba cigar label, and we put it
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食べられるラベルを貼り
02:16
in a dollar ninety-nine ashtray and charge
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２ドルの灰皿に入れ
02:18
you about twenty bucks for it. (Laughter)
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20ドル請求します （笑）
02:21
HC: Delicious.
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ホーマロ：おいしいですよ
02:23
BR: That's not it, though.
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ベン：それだけじゃありません
02:25
Instead of making foods that
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食べられないものに似せて
02:27
look like things that you wouldn't eat,
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食べ物を作るだけでなく
02:29
we decided to make ingredients
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食材を私達になじみのある料理に似せて
02:31
look like dishes that you know.
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料理を創る事にしました
02:33
So this is a plate of nachos.
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これはナチョスです
02:35
The difference between our nachos
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他のナチョスと
02:37
and the other guy's nachos,
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私達のナチョスの違いは
02:39
is that this is actually a dessert.
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これはデザ−トだという事です
02:41
So the chips are candied,
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チップスは飴掛けしてあり
02:43
the ground beef is made from chocolate,
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ビ−フはチョコレ−ト
02:45
and the cheese is made from a shredded
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チ−ズはマンゴ−シャ−ベットを
02:47
mango sorbet that gets shredded
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細くしたものを液体窒素で
02:49
into liquid nitrogen to look like cheese.
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固めてあります
02:51
And after doing all of this
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素材の形を
02:53
dematerialization and reconfiguring
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崩したり造り直したりして
02:56
of this, of these ingredients, we realized
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このような事ができるのは
02:59
that it was pretty cool,
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なかなかクールだと気づきました
03:01
because as we served it, we learned that
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お客さんに出す時
03:03
the dish actually behaves like the real thing,
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料理は本物のように見えるんです
03:05
where the cheese begins to melt.
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チ−ズは溶けだしますし―
03:07
So when you're looking at this thing
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テ−ブルでこれが出されたら
03:09
in the dining room, you have this sensation
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本物のナチョスが出てきたという
03:11
that this is actually a plate of nachos,
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錯覚を起こすでしょう
03:13
and it's not really until you begin tasting it
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味わって初めて
03:15
that you realize this is a dessert, and
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デザ−トだと気付き
03:17
it's just kind of like a mind-ripper.
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ドッキリすることでしょう
03:20
(Laughter)
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（笑）
03:22
HC: So we had been creating
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ホーマロ：キッチンというより
03:24
all of these dishes out of a
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整備工場に近いようなキッチンで
03:26
kitchen that was more like
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これらの料理を
03:28
a mechanic's shop than a kitchen, and
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作ってきました
03:30
the next logical step for us was to install
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次の段階は
03:32
a state-of-the-art laboratory,
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このような最先端のラボを
03:34
and that's what we have here.
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設備することでした
03:36
So we put this in the basement, and we
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地下室に備え付け
03:38
got really serious about food, like
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食べ物の研究にまじめに
03:40
serious experimentation.
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取り組みました
03:42
BR: One of the really cool things about
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ベン：私達の研究室がスゴイのは
03:44
the lab, besides that we have a new
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キッチンにサイエンス・ラボが
03:46
science lab in the kitchen, is that,
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あるからだけではありません
03:48
you know, with this new equipment, and
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新しい装置や方法で
03:50
this new approach, all these
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夢想だにしなかった
03:52
different doors to creativity that we never
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創造的な試みができるのです
03:54
knew were there began to open, and so the
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私達の挑戦する
03:56
experiments and the food and the dishes
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実験や食材や料理は
03:58
that we created, they just kept going
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少しずつ
04:01
further and further out there.
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変わったものになっていきました
04:03
HC: Let's talk about flavor transformation,
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ホーマロ：ここで 味の変身による
04:05
and let's actually make some cool stuff.
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面白い料理の話をして実際に作ってみます
04:07
You see a cow with its tongue hanging out.
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牛が舌を出していますね
04:09
What I see is a cow about to eat something
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何かおいしいものを
04:11
delicious. What is that cow eating?
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食べようとしていますが
04:14
And why is it delicious?
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牛にとってのごちそうとは？
04:16
So the cow, basically, eats three basic
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牛のえさは 基本的に
04:18
things in their feed: corn, beets, and barley,
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トウモロコシとビーツと大麦です
04:22
and so what I do is I actually
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スタッフにはいつも
04:24
challenge my staff with these crazy,
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突拍子もない挑戦を
04:26
wild ideas. Can we take what the cow
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させるのですが― 牛肉を使わずに
04:29
eats, remove the cow, and then make
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牛のえさだけで
04:31
some hamburgers out of that?
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ハンバーガーを作れるでしょうか？
04:33
And basically the reaction tends to be
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たいてい このような
04:35
kind of like this. (Laughter)
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反応をされます （笑）
04:37
BR: Yeah, that's our chef de cuisine,
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ベン：彼はシェフの
04:39
Chris Jones. This is not the only guy
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クリス・ジョ−ンズです
04:41
that just flips out when we assign
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変な仕事をさせらせて
04:43
a ridiculous task, but a lot of these ideas,
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困惑するのは彼だけではありません
04:46
they're hard to understand.
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私達のアイディアの多くは
04:48
They're hard to just get automatically.
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咄嗟には理解しがたいでしょう
04:50
There's a lot of research and a lot of
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全ての料理に
04:53
failure, trial and error -- I guess, more error --
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多くのリサ−チや
04:56
that goes into each and every dish,
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試行錯誤が必要で
04:58
so we don't always get it right, and it takes
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特に多くの失敗はつきものです
05:00
a while for us to be able to explain that
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人に説明するのにも
05:02
to people.
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大変時間がかかります
05:04
HC: So, after about a day of Chris and I
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ホーマロ：私とクリスは一日中
05:06
staring at each other, we came up with
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頭を突き合わせ
05:08
something that was pretty close
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本物のハンバ−ガ−のパティに
05:10
to the hamburger patty, and as you can
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近いものを
05:12
see it basically forms like hamburger meat.
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考え付きました
05:14
This is made from three ingredients:
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三つの材料からできています
05:17
beets, barley, corn, and so it
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ビーツと大麦とトウモロコシです
05:19
actually cooks up like hamburger meat,
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ハンバ−ガ−のように焼き
05:21
looks and tastes like hamburger meat,
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見かけも味もそっくりです
05:23
and not only that, but it's basically
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それだけではなく
05:26
removing the cow from the equation.
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牛肉も使いません
05:28
So replicating food, taking it into that
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食材を別の材料で再現し
このように次の次元へ昇華するのが
このように次の次元へ昇華するのが
05:31
next level is where we're going.
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私達の目指すところなのです
05:33
(Applause)
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（拍手）
05:36
BR: And it's definitely the world's first
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ベン：たしかに世界初の血のしたたる
05:38
bleeding veggie burger,
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野菜バ−ガ−です
05:40
which is a cool side effect.
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クールな効果だと思いませんか
05:43
And a miracle berry, if you're not familiar
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そして「奇跡のべリ−」
05:45
with it, is a natural ingredient, and it
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これは天然素材で
05:47
contains a special property.
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特別な特徴があります
05:49
It's a glycoprotein called miraculin,
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ミラクリンという糖タンパクを含み
05:51
a naturally occurring thing. It still freaks
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私は食べるたびに
05:53
me out every time I eat it, but it has a
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未だに混乱させられます
05:55
unique ability to mask certain taste
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舌の ある受容器官を
05:57
receptors on your tongue, so that primarily
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だます能力があり
05:59
sour taste receptors, so normally things
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酸っぱさやピリッとした味は
06:01
that would taste very sour or tart,
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なんだかとても甘い味が
06:03
somehow begin to taste very sweet.
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するように変わります
06:06
HC: You're about to eat a lemon,
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ホーマロ：レモンを食べたら
06:08
and now it tastes like lemonade.
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レモネ−ドの味がするでしょう
06:10
Let's just stop and think about the
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そういう技術の経済的効果を
06:12
economic benefits of something like that.
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少し考えてみましょう
06:14
We could eliminate sugar across the board
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お菓子やソ−ダの糖類を
06:16
for all confectionary products and sodas,
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完全に天然果実と
06:18
and we can replace it with
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入れ替える事が
06:20
all-natural fresh fruit.
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できるかもしれません
06:22
BR: So you see us here cutting up
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ベン：これはスイカを
06:24
some watermelon. The idea with this
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切っているところです
06:26
is that we're going to eliminate tons of
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このスイカを使ったアイデアで
06:28
food miles, wasted energy,
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食物の輸送距離や エネルギーの浪費
06:31
and overfishing of tuna by creating tuna,
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マグロの乱獲を減らそうと考えました
06:34
or any exotic produce or item
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つまり地元の有機農産物を使い
06:37
from a very far-away place,
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マグロや遠い場所の
06:40
with local, organic produce;
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珍しい野菜や料理を作るのです このスイカは
06:43
so we have a watermelon from Wisconsin.
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ウィスコンシン州産です
06:45
HC: So if miracle berries take sour things
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ホーマロ：「奇跡のベリ−」は酸味を
06:47
and turn them into sweet things,
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甘味に変えますが
06:49
we have this other pixie dust
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この「妖精の粉」を
06:51
that we put on the watermelon, and it
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スイカにかけると
06:53
makes it go from sweet to savory.
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甘味は旨味に変わります
06:56
So after we do that, we put it into
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その後 真空袋に入れて
06:58
a vacuum bag, add a little bit of seaweed,
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少量の海苔や
07:00
some spices, and we roll it, and this
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香辛料を加えて巻くと
07:03
starts taking on the appearance of tuna.
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マグロに見えて来ます
07:05
So the key now is to make it
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次は本物に
07:07
behave like tuna.
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近づけるコツです
07:09
BR: And then after a quick dip into some
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ベン：素早く液体窒素に浸し
07:11
liquid nitrogen to get that perfect sear,
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きれいな焦げ目を付けると
07:14
we really have something that looks,
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本物とちょうど同じ
07:16
tastes and behaves like the real thing.
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味と歯ごたえになります
07:19
HC: So the key thing to remember here is,
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ホーマロ：このマグロが実は何であるかは
07:22
we don't really care
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重要ではないと
07:25
what this tuna really is.
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覚えておいてください
07:27
As long as it's good for you and good for
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人や環境にやさしい限り
07:29
the environment, it doesn't matter.
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構わないのです
07:31
But where is this going?
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このアイディアの行く末は？
07:33
How can we take this idea of tricking your
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味覚をだます技術を
07:35
tastebuds and leapfrog it into something
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もっと発達させたら
07:37
that we can do today that could be
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どのような革命を起こす
07:39
a disruptive food technology?
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フード・テクノロジーに
なるでしょうか？
なるでしょうか？
07:41
So here's the next challenge.
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さて 次の挑戦です
07:43
I told the staff, let's just take a bunch
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野生植物をたくさん採って
07:45
of wild plants, think of them as
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食材にしようと
07:47
food ingredients. As long as they're
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スタッフに言いました
07:49
non-poisonous to the human body,
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人体に毒でないかぎり
07:51
go out around Chicago sidewalks,
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シカゴの歩道から採った植物を
07:53
take it, blend it, cook it and then
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混ぜ合わせて 焼いて
07:55
have everybody flavor-trip on it at Moto.
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皆でMotoで味見をしよう
07:58
Let's charge them a boatload of cash for this
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お客さんに高額を請求して
08:00
and see what they think. (Laughter)
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感想を聞いてみようと―（笑）
08:04
BR: Yeah, so you can imagine, a task
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ベン：こんなに大変な仕事を
08:06
like this -- this is another one of those
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させれば スタッフに
08:08
assignments that the kitchen staff
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嫌がられるのも分かるでしょう
08:10
hated us for. But we really had to almost
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でも最初から料理についての
08:12
relearn how to cook in general,
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考え方を変えなければならなかったのです
08:15
because these are ingredients, you know,
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これらの食材は
08:17
plant life that we're, one, unfamiliar with,
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なじみのない植物です
08:19
and two, we have no reference for how
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普段食べる事がないため
08:21
to cook these things because
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私達は料理方法を
08:23
people don't eat them.
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知りませんでした
08:25
So we really had to think about new, creative ways
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クリエイティブな調理法や味付け
08:27
to flavor, new ways to cook
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舌触りを変える方法を
08:29
and to change texture -- and that was
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考えなければならず
08:31
the main issue with this challenge.
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それが一番の問題でした
08:33
HC: So this is where we step into the future
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ホーマロ：さあ 今こそ未来へ足を踏み出し
08:36
and we leapfrog ahead.
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飛躍する時です
08:38
So developing nations
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想像して下さい
08:40
and first-world nations,
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発展途上国と先進国が
08:42
imagine if you could take these wild plants
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野生植物をもっと食べたら
08:44
and consume them, food miles would
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食料の輸送距離はキロから
08:46
basically turn into food feet.
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メ−トルに短く変わるでしょう
08:48
This disruptive mentality of what food is
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もし「食材」の意味を
08:50
would essentially open up the encyclopedia
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根本的に変え 原材料の
百科事典を新たに開けば―
百科事典を新たに開けば―
08:53
of what raw ingredients are, even if we just
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例えば 小麦粉の代わりに
08:55
swapped out, say, one of these for flour,
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これらの材料の１つを使ったら
08:57
that would eliminate so much energy
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エネルギ−の節約にもなるし
09:00
and so much waste.
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無駄も減るでしょう
09:02
And to give you a simple example here as to
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私達がお客さんに
09:04
what we actually fed these customers,
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供したものの例を１つ
09:06
there's a bale of hay there
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こちらはわら1梱と
09:08
and some crab apples.
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野生リンゴです
09:10
And basically we took hay and crab apples
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この２つの材料から
09:12
and made barbecue sauce out of those two ingredients.
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バ−ベキュ−ソ−スを作りました
09:14
People swore they were eating
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皆さん本物だと信じましたが
09:16
barbecue sauce, and this is free food.
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タダで手に入れた材料しか使っていないのです
09:19
BR: Thanks, guys.
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ベン：どうもありがとう
09:22
(Applause)
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（拍手）
ABOUT THE SPEAKERS
Homaro Cantu - ChefThe executive chef at Chicago's Moto restaurant, Homaro Cantu created postmodern cuisine and futuristic food delivery systems.
Why you should listen
You could call Homaro Cantu a chef -- or an inventor of futuristic food delivery systems. A graduate of Le Cordon Bleu in Portland, Oregon, he worked in Charlie Trotter’s restaurant in Chicago, where he rose to the position of sous chef, then left to found Moto, a path-breaking restaurant with a molecular gastronomy approach. Moto puts Cantu’s concepts and creations into practice by melding food with science, technology and art. Michael Eisner once described Cantu as the most revolutionary person in food since Ray Kroc.
Through his company Cantu Designs, Chef Cantu filed numerous patent applications covering dining implements, cookware, printed food and hoped to develop his inventions for commercial, humanitarian and aerospace applications. In 2013 he released The Miracle Berry Diet Cookbook to imagine uses for the flavor-tripping "miracle fruit." As he said: "Any idea's a great idea as long as it tastes great." Cantu passed away in April 2015.
Homaro Cantu | Speaker | TED.com
Ben Roche - Chef
Ben Roche is the pastry chef at Moto, in Chicago, and was the co-host, with Homaro Cantu, of the TV show "Future Food."
Why you should listen
Ben Roche is the pastry chef of Moto restaurant in Chicago and co-host of the series "Future Food" on Discovery’s Planet Green network. Classically trained, he comes up with food concepts and/or dishes that draw inspiration from all over: as he says, "mechanical, artistic, experimental, etc."
More profile about the speakerBen Roche | Speaker | TED.com