TED2011
Homaro Cantu + Ben Roche: Cooking as alchemy
哈马罗·坎图＋本·罗切：点"食"成金
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哈马罗·坎图和本·罗切在芝加哥开了一家名为Moto的餐馆，尝试新奇的烹饪法和吃法。除了新奇好玩之外，这里还有一个用意：我们能一直使用新的食品科技为人类造福吗？
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:15
Ben Roche: So I'm Ben, by the way.
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本.罗切：我是本
00:17
Homaro Cantu: And I'm Homaro.
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哈马罗·坎图：我是哈马罗
00:19
BR: And we're chefs. So when Moto
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我们是厨师
00:21
opened in 2004, people didn't really know
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Moto在2004年开业的时候 人们并不知道
00:23
what to expect. A lot of people thought
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我们卖的是什么 许多人以为
00:25
that it was a Japanese restaurant, and
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这是家日本餐馆
00:27
maybe it was the name, maybe it was
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可能是因为店名
00:29
the logo, which was like a Japanese
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或者标志看起来
00:31
character, but anyway, we had all these
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像日本文字 反正 我们收到了
00:33
requests for Japanese food, which is
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许多要点日本菜的要求
00:35
really not what we did. And after about
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其实我们不卖日本菜
00:37
the ten thousandth request for a maki roll,
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在收到第一万次寿司卷的要求之后
00:39
we decided to give the people
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我们决定满足人们的要求
00:41
what they wanted. So this picture is
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这张照片
00:43
an example of printed food, and this was
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是一份平面食物
00:45
the first foray into what we like to call
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这是我们进行味道改造的
00:47
flavor transformation. So this is all
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首次尝试
00:49
the ingredients, all the flavor of, you know,
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寿司卷的所有材料 所有味道
00:51
a standard maki roll, printed onto
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都被印到了
00:53
a little piece of paper.
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一小张纸上
00:55
HC: So our diners started to get bored
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后来 客人们都吃厌了
00:57
with this idea, and we decided to give them
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我们延续这个思路
00:59
the same course twice, so here we actually
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决定给他们双份同样的食物
01:02
took an element from the maki roll and
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我们把寿司卷中的一样材料拿出来
01:04
and took a picture of a dish and then
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给这道菜照了张照片
01:06
basically served that picture with the dish.
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把照片上的菜一起端上桌
01:09
So this dish in particular is basically
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这道菜主要是
01:11
champagne with seafood.
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香槟和海鲜
01:13
The champagne grapes that you see are
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上面的香槟葡萄
01:15
actually carbonated grapes. A little bit of
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实际上是碳酸葡萄
01:17
seafood and some crème fraiche and the
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一点点海鲜和一些鲜奶油
01:19
picture actually tastes exactly like the dish. (Laughter)
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这张照片的味道和这道菜一模一样（众人笑）
01:22
BR: But it's not all just edible pictures.
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我们并不满足于做出可食用的照片
01:24
We decided to do something
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我们决定
01:26
a little bit different and transform flavors
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玩些新花样 把人们熟知的味道
01:28
that were very familiar -- so in this case,
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进行改变 这一次
01:31
we have carrot cake.
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我们做的是胡萝卜蛋糕
01:33
So we take a carrot cake, put it
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我们把一个胡萝卜蛋糕
01:35
in a blender, and we have kind of like
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放进搅拌机
01:37
a carrot cake juice, and then that went into
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打成汁 接着
01:39
a balloon frozen in liquid nitrogen to create
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把它灌进一个在液态氮中冷冻的气球中
01:41
this hollow shell of carrot cake
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在这个空壳中
01:44
ice cream, I guess, and it comes off
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形成胡萝卜蛋糕冰淇淋
01:46
looking like, you know,
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它看起来就像
01:48
Jupiter's floating around your plate.
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木星悬浮在你的盘子上
01:50
So yeah, we're transforming things into
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我们把东西变成
01:52
something that you have absolutely
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你们从来
01:54
no reference for.
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没见过的东西
01:56
HC: And here's something we have no
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有些菜看起来跟食物搭不上任何关系
01:58
reference to eat. This is a cigar, and
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这是一支雪茄
02:00
basically it's a Cuban cigar made out of
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一支用古巴猪肉三明治做成的
02:02
a Cuban pork sandwich, so we take these
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古巴雪茄
02:04
spices that go into the pork shoulder,
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我们把猪肩肉用调味料淹好
02:06
we fashion that into ash. We take
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制作出烟灰的效果
02:08
the sandwich and wrap it up in
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在把它裹在
02:10
a collard green, put an edible label
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一片羽衣甘蓝叶里 加上一个可食用标签
02:12
that bears no similarity to
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这个标签不与
02:14
a Cohiba cigar label, and we put it
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高希霸雪茄的任何标签雷同
02:16
in a dollar ninety-nine ashtray and charge
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我们把这道菜摆在一个价值1.99美元的烟灰缸上
02:18
you about twenty bucks for it. (Laughter)
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20美元卖给你（众人笑）
02:21
HC: Delicious.
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味道好极了
02:23
BR: That's not it, though.
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这还没完呢
02:25
Instead of making foods that
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除了把食物做成
02:27
look like things that you wouldn't eat,
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不能吃的东西的样子
02:29
we decided to make ingredients
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我们决定把材料做成
02:31
look like dishes that you know.
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你们熟悉的食物
02:33
So this is a plate of nachos.
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这是一盘玉米片
02:35
The difference between our nachos
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我们的玉米片和其他人的玉米片
02:37
and the other guy's nachos,
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不同之处在于
02:39
is that this is actually a dessert.
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它其实是一道甜点
02:41
So the chips are candied,
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玉米片是用糖做的
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the ground beef is made from chocolate,
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碎牛肉是巧克力做的
02:45
and the cheese is made from a shredded
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奶酪是用芒果冰糕做的
02:47
mango sorbet that gets shredded
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冰糕在液态氮中被切成丝
02:49
into liquid nitrogen to look like cheese.
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看起来酷似奶酪
02:51
And after doing all of this
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完成所有这些
02:53
dematerialization and reconfiguring
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将食材进行改造和重组
02:56
of this, of these ingredients, we realized
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我们发现
02:59
that it was pretty cool,
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这种做法非常有意思
03:01
because as we served it, we learned that
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当把这道菜端上桌
03:03
the dish actually behaves like the real thing,
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奶酪开始融化
03:05
where the cheese begins to melt.
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我们发现这道菜产生了和原菜同样的效果
03:07
So when you're looking at this thing
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当你在餐厅里看着这道菜
03:09
in the dining room, you have this sensation
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你还真的以为
03:11
that this is actually a plate of nachos,
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这是一盘玉米片
03:13
and it's not really until you begin tasting it
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直到你尝上一口
03:15
that you realize this is a dessert, and
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才惊觉这其实是一道甜点
03:17
it's just kind of like a mind-ripper.
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让人大吃一惊
03:20
(Laughter)
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（众人笑）
03:22
HC: So we had been creating
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我们创造这些菜式的地方
03:24
all of these dishes out of a
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与其说是厨房
03:26
kitchen that was more like
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不如说是机械车间
03:28
a mechanic's shop than a kitchen, and
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下一步自然就是
03:30
the next logical step for us was to install
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在建造一间
03:32
a state-of-the-art laboratory,
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先进的实验室
03:34
and that's what we have here.
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这就是我们的设备
03:36
So we put this in the basement, and we
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这些设备放置在地下室里
03:38
got really serious about food, like
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我们对食物进行严肃的研究
03:40
serious experimentation.
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好比在进行严谨的实验
03:42
BR: One of the really cool things about
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这个地方很棒的一点是
03:44
the lab, besides that we have a new
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除了在厨房里
03:46
science lab in the kitchen, is that,
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建起了科学实验室
03:48
you know, with this new equipment, and
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我们还得到了新设备
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this new approach, all these
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新方法
03:52
different doors to creativity that we never
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打开了我们之前意想不到的
03:54
knew were there began to open, and so the
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创新之门
03:56
experiments and the food and the dishes
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我们进行的试验
03:58
that we created, they just kept going
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和创造的菜式
04:01
further and further out there.
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能够越走越远
04:03
HC: Let's talk about flavor transformation,
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我们来说一说味道的改造
04:05
and let's actually make some cool stuff.
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我们来创造一些好东西
04:07
You see a cow with its tongue hanging out.
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这是一头牛 它伸出了舌头
04:09
What I see is a cow about to eat something
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我看 它正准备美餐一顿
04:11
delicious. What is that cow eating?
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这头牛吃什么呢
04:14
And why is it delicious?
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为什么那么美味
04:16
So the cow, basically, eats three basic
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这头牛主要吃三样食物
04:18
things in their feed: corn, beets, and barley,
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玉米 甜菜头 大麦
04:22
and so what I do is I actually
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于是我向员工
04:24
challenge my staff with these crazy,
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提出了一个疯狂的要求
04:26
wild ideas. Can we take what the cow
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我们能不能
04:29
eats, remove the cow, and then make
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用牛吃的食物来取代牛肉
04:31
some hamburgers out of that?
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来制作汉堡
04:33
And basically the reaction tends to be
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结果员工的反应
04:35
kind of like this. (Laughter)
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大多都是这样的 （众人笑）
04:37
BR: Yeah, that's our chef de cuisine,
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这位是我们的厨师长
04:39
Chris Jones. This is not the only guy
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克里斯·琼斯
04:41
that just flips out when we assign
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他不是唯一一个
04:43
a ridiculous task, but a lot of these ideas,
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被我们荒唐的任务逼疯的人
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they're hard to understand.
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许多这些想法都很难理解
04:48
They're hard to just get automatically.
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不是一时半会就能弄明白的
04:50
There's a lot of research and a lot of
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要做许多研究
04:53
failure, trial and error -- I guess, more error --
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每试验一道菜
04:56
that goes into each and every dish,
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都经历失败 尝试 错误 错误占大多数
04:58
so we don't always get it right, and it takes
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我们并不总是一帆风顺
05:00
a while for us to be able to explain that
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要花上一些功夫
05:02
to people.
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向人们解释
05:04
HC: So, after about a day of Chris and I
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我和克里斯
05:06
staring at each other, we came up with
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面面相觑了一整天之后
05:08
something that was pretty close
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我们找到了
05:10
to the hamburger patty, and as you can
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一种非常接近汉堡肉饼的东西
05:12
see it basically forms like hamburger meat.
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你看它看起来跟汉堡肉差不多
05:14
This is made from three ingredients:
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这是由三种原料制成的
05:17
beets, barley, corn, and so it
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甜菜头 大麦 玉米
05:19
actually cooks up like hamburger meat,
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它煮熟之后就像汉堡肉
05:21
looks and tastes like hamburger meat,
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模样和味道都像汉堡肉
05:23
and not only that, but it's basically
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不仅如此
05:26
removing the cow from the equation.
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我们还把牛肉从这个过程中省去了
05:28
So replicating food, taking it into that
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我们的目标是
05:31
next level is where we're going.
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复制食物 在此基础上更进一步
05:33
(Applause)
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（众人鼓掌）
05:36
BR: And it's definitely the world's first
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这可谓是世界上
05:38
bleeding veggie burger,
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第一个血淋淋的素汉堡啊
05:40
which is a cool side effect.
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不错的附加效果
05:43
And a miracle berry, if you're not familiar
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这是神秘果
05:45
with it, is a natural ingredient, and it
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一种天然调料
05:47
contains a special property.
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含有一种特殊成分
05:49
It's a glycoprotein called miraculin,
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即一种名为神秘果蛋白的糖类蛋白
05:51
a naturally occurring thing. It still freaks
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是纯天然的
05:53
me out every time I eat it, but it has a
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我每次吃它 都感到不可思议
05:55
unique ability to mask certain taste
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它能够
05:57
receptors on your tongue, so that primarily
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蒙骗舌头上的某些味蕾
05:59
sour taste receptors, so normally things
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主要是酸味味蕾
06:01
that would taste very sour or tart,
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所以那些味道酸涩的食物
06:03
somehow begin to taste very sweet.
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尝起来是非常甜的
06:06
HC: You're about to eat a lemon,
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你吃一个柠檬
06:08
and now it tastes like lemonade.
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像在喝加糖的柠檬汁
06:10
Let's just stop and think about the
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试想一下
06:12
economic benefits of something like that.
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这蕴含着多大的经济实惠啊
06:14
We could eliminate sugar across the board
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我们可以省去
06:16
for all confectionary products and sodas,
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所有糖类食品和汽水中的糖
06:18
and we can replace it with
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而用全天然鲜果
06:20
all-natural fresh fruit.
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取而代之
06:22
BR: So you see us here cutting up
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你看 我们在切西瓜
06:24
some watermelon. The idea with this
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我们的想法是
06:26
is that we're going to eliminate tons of
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通过在本地
06:28
food miles, wasted energy,
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制作金枪鱼肉
06:31
and overfishing of tuna by creating tuna,
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或其他异域或风味食品
06:34
or any exotic produce or item
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来省去外地制作同样的食品
06:37
from a very far-away place,
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所耗费的食物里程和能源
06:40
with local, organic produce;
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并杜绝了过度捕捞金枪鱼
06:43
so we have a watermelon from Wisconsin.
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因此 我们拿来了一个产自威斯康辛州的西瓜
06:45
HC: So if miracle berries take sour things
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神秘果能把酸的食物
06:47
and turn them into sweet things,
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变成甜食
06:49
we have this other pixie dust
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我们还有另一种神奇药粉
06:51
that we put on the watermelon, and it
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能把西瓜的甜味
06:53
makes it go from sweet to savory.
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变咸
06:56
So after we do that, we put it into
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经过这样的处理后
06:58
a vacuum bag, add a little bit of seaweed,
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我们将西瓜真空包装 加一点海苔
07:00
some spices, and we roll it, and this
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调味料 把它一卷
07:03
starts taking on the appearance of tuna.
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它开始变得像金枪鱼肉
07:05
So the key now is to make it
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而关键是
07:07
behave like tuna.
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让它吃起来也像金枪鱼肉
07:09
BR: And then after a quick dip into some
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在液态氮中迅速蘸一下
07:11
liquid nitrogen to get that perfect sear,
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它得到恰到好处的焦脆质感
07:14
we really have something that looks,
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这样 我们就做出了
07:16
tastes and behaves like the real thing.
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与金枪鱼口感一模一样的替代品
07:19
HC: So the key thing to remember here is,
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重要的是
07:22
we don't really care
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我们并不在乎
07:25
what this tuna really is.
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这是不是真的金枪鱼
07:27
As long as it's good for you and good for
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只要对人的健康
07:29
the environment, it doesn't matter.
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和环境有好处 就行了
07:31
But where is this going?
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但是这一步怎么走呢
07:33
How can we take this idea of tricking your
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我们如何把这个蒙蔽味蕾的手法
07:35
tastebuds and leapfrog it into something
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进一步升华
07:37
that we can do today that could be
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来发展出
07:39
a disruptive food technology?
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颠覆性的食品科技
07:41
So here's the next challenge.
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下一项挑战任务来了
07:43
I told the staff, let's just take a bunch
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我对手下说
07:45
of wild plants, think of them as
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我们拿一堆野生植物
07:47
food ingredients. As long as they're
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只要它们对人体无害
07:49
non-poisonous to the human body,
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都拿来当作调料
07:51
go out around Chicago sidewalks,
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到芝加哥的大街上
07:53
take it, blend it, cook it and then
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随手摘下来 搅碎 煮一煮
07:55
have everybody flavor-trip on it at Moto.
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让在Moto店里的每个顾客都尝尝
07:58
Let's charge them a boatload of cash for this
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收他们一大笔钱
08:00
and see what they think. (Laughter)
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看看他们有什么反应 （众人笑）
08:04
BR: Yeah, so you can imagine, a task
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你们可以想象得到
08:06
like this -- this is another one of those
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这又是一项
08:08
assignments that the kitchen staff
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让员工把我们恨得咬牙切齿的任务
08:10
hated us for. But we really had to almost
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但我们几乎不得不
08:12
relearn how to cook in general,
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重新学习如何烹饪
08:15
because these are ingredients, you know,
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因为我们对这些材料
08:17
plant life that we're, one, unfamiliar with,
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植物的生长周期都不熟悉
08:19
and two, we have no reference for how
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我们也不知道
08:21
to cook these things because
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怎么烹饪这些材料
08:23
people don't eat them.
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因为人们平时都不吃这些东西
08:25
So we really had to think about new, creative ways
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我们不得不想出新奇的方法
08:27
to flavor, new ways to cook
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来调味 来烹饪
08:29
and to change texture -- and that was
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来改变口感
08:31
the main issue with this challenge.
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这些是主要的挑战所在
08:33
HC: So this is where we step into the future
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这就是我们未来发展的方向
08:36
and we leapfrog ahead.
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我们向前跨越
08:38
So developing nations
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所以发展中国家
08:40
and first-world nations,
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和第一世界国家
08:42
imagine if you could take these wild plants
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设想如果你能把这些野生植物
08:44
and consume them, food miles would
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拿去消费 你就能
08:46
basically turn into food feet.
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大大缩短食物里程
08:48
This disruptive mentality of what food is
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这种对食物的概念颠覆性的思维
08:50
would essentially open up the encyclopedia
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能够让食材的定义
08:53
of what raw ingredients are, even if we just
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更加丰富多彩
08:55
swapped out, say, one of these for flour,
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如果面粉能够被取代
08:57
that would eliminate so much energy
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我们就能省下大量能源
09:00
and so much waste.
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减少浪费
09:02
And to give you a simple example here as to
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这里有一个例子
09:04
what we actually fed these customers,
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我们可以给顾客吃这些东西
09:06
there's a bale of hay there
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这是一袋稻草
09:08
and some crab apples.
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还有一些山楂
09:10
And basically we took hay and crab apples
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我们把稻草和山楂
09:12
and made barbecue sauce out of those two ingredients.
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做成了烧烤酱
09:14
People swore they were eating
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尝过这种烧烤酱的人
09:16
barbecue sauce, and this is free food.
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都说这跟真的烧烤酱没有区别 而这不花一分钱
09:19
BR: Thanks, guys.
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谢谢大家
09:22
(Applause)
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（众人鼓掌）
ABOUT THE SPEAKERS
Homaro Cantu - ChefThe executive chef at Chicago's Moto restaurant, Homaro Cantu created postmodern cuisine and futuristic food delivery systems.
Why you should listen
You could call Homaro Cantu a chef -- or an inventor of futuristic food delivery systems. A graduate of Le Cordon Bleu in Portland, Oregon, he worked in Charlie Trotter’s restaurant in Chicago, where he rose to the position of sous chef, then left to found Moto, a path-breaking restaurant with a molecular gastronomy approach. Moto puts Cantu’s concepts and creations into practice by melding food with science, technology and art. Michael Eisner once described Cantu as the most revolutionary person in food since Ray Kroc.
Through his company Cantu Designs, Chef Cantu filed numerous patent applications covering dining implements, cookware, printed food and hoped to develop his inventions for commercial, humanitarian and aerospace applications. In 2013 he released The Miracle Berry Diet Cookbook to imagine uses for the flavor-tripping "miracle fruit." As he said: "Any idea's a great idea as long as it tastes great." Cantu passed away in April 2015.
Homaro Cantu | Speaker | TED.com
Ben Roche - Chef
Ben Roche is the pastry chef at Moto, in Chicago, and was the co-host, with Homaro Cantu, of the TV show "Future Food."
Why you should listen
Ben Roche is the pastry chef of Moto restaurant in Chicago and co-host of the series "Future Food" on Discovery’s Planet Green network. Classically trained, he comes up with food concepts and/or dishes that draw inspiration from all over: as he says, "mechanical, artistic, experimental, etc."
More profile about the speakerBen Roche | Speaker | TED.com