TED2011
Homaro Cantu + Ben Roche: Cooking as alchemy
Homaro Cantu i Ben Roche: Kuhanje kao alkemija
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Homaro Cantu i Ben Roche rade u Motu, čikaškom restoranu koji se igra s novim načinima pripremanja i konzumiranja hrane. No, iza zabave i eksperimentiranja s okusima stoji ozbiljna namjera: Možemo li novu prehrambenu tehnologiju koristiti za dobro?
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:15
Ben Roche: So I'm Ben, by the way.
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Ben Roche: Ja sam Ben, inače.
00:17
Homaro Cantu: And I'm Homaro.
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Homaro Cantu: A ja sam Homaro.
00:19
BR: And we're chefs. So when Moto
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BR: Mi smo kuhari. Kad se Moto
00:21
opened in 2004, people didn't really know
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otvorio 2004. godine, ljudi nisu baš znali
00:23
what to expect. A lot of people thought
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što da očekuju. Mnogi su mislili
00:25
that it was a Japanese restaurant, and
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da je to japanski restoran,
00:27
maybe it was the name, maybe it was
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možda zbog imena,
00:29
the logo, which was like a Japanese
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možda zbog zaštitnog znaka, koji je nalikovao
00:31
character, but anyway, we had all these
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japanskom znaku, ali u svakom slučaju,
00:33
requests for Japanese food, which is
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imali smo mnogo narudžbi za japansku hranu,
00:35
really not what we did. And after about
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a mi je stvarno nismo pripremali.
00:37
the ten thousandth request for a maki roll,
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Nakon desettisućite narudžbe za svitak Maki,
00:39
we decided to give the people
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odlučili smo dati ljudima
00:41
what they wanted. So this picture is
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ono što žele. Ovo je slika
00:43
an example of printed food, and this was
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primjera otisnute hrane i to je bio
00:45
the first foray into what we like to call
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naš prvi izlet u ono što volimo zvati
00:47
flavor transformation. So this is all
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transformacijom okusa. Ovo su svi sastojci,
00:49
the ingredients, all the flavor of, you know,
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sav okus, znate,
00:51
a standard maki roll, printed onto
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uobičajenog svitka Maki, otisnuto
00:53
a little piece of paper.
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na mali komad papira.
00:55
HC: So our diners started to get bored
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HC: Našim je gostima polako dosadila
00:57
with this idea, and we decided to give them
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ova ideja pa smo im odlučili dati
00:59
the same course twice, so here we actually
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isto jelo dva puta, tako da smo ovdje zapravo
01:02
took an element from the maki roll and
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uzeli jedan sastojak iz svitka Maki,
01:04
and took a picture of a dish and then
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fotografirali to jelo i zatim
01:06
basically served that picture with the dish.
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poslužili tu fotografiju s jelom.
01:09
So this dish in particular is basically
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Ovo konkretno jelo sastoji se
01:11
champagne with seafood.
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od šampanjca i plodova mora.
01:13
The champagne grapes that you see are
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Šampanjsko grožđe koje vidite
01:15
actually carbonated grapes. A little bit of
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zapravo je pougljeno grožđe.
01:17
seafood and some crème fraiche and the
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S malo plodova mora i vrhnja
01:19
picture actually tastes exactly like the dish. (Laughter)
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slika zapravo ima jednak okus kao i jelo. (Smijeh)
01:22
BR: But it's not all just edible pictures.
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BR: Ali nismo radili samo jestive slike.
01:24
We decided to do something
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Odlučili smo učiniti nešto
01:26
a little bit different and transform flavors
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pomalo drugačije i transformirati okuse
01:28
that were very familiar -- so in this case,
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koji su nam vrlo poznati -- u ovom slučaju,
01:31
we have carrot cake.
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imamo tortu od mrkve.
01:33
So we take a carrot cake, put it
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Dakle, uzmemo tortu od mrkve,
01:35
in a blender, and we have kind of like
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ubacimo je u mikser i dobijemo nešto poput
01:37
a carrot cake juice, and then that went into
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soka od torte od mrkve. Zatim smo to stavili
01:39
a balloon frozen in liquid nitrogen to create
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u balon zamrznut tekućim dušikom
01:41
this hollow shell of carrot cake
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i dobili šuplju školjku torte od sladoleda
01:44
ice cream, I guess, and it comes off
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od torte od mrkve, više-manje,
01:46
looking like, you know,
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i to je na kraju izgledalo, vidite,
01:48
Jupiter's floating around your plate.
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kao da vam Jupiter lebdi na tanjuru.
01:50
So yeah, we're transforming things into
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I tako mi to pretvaramo
01:52
something that you have absolutely
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u nešto što zaista
01:54
no reference for.
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nemate s čime usporediti.
01:56
HC: And here's something we have no
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HC: Evo i nečega što
01:58
reference to eat. This is a cigar, and
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ne znamo kako jesti. Ovo je cigara.
02:00
basically it's a Cuban cigar made out of
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To je u biti kubanska cigara izrađena od
02:02
a Cuban pork sandwich, so we take these
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kubanskog sendviča sa svinjetinom.
02:04
spices that go into the pork shoulder,
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Uzeli smo začine koji se dodaju svinjskoj lopatici
02:06
we fashion that into ash. We take
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i samljeli ih u prah. Zatim smo uzeli
02:08
the sandwich and wrap it up in
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taj sendvič i omotali ga u
02:10
a collard green, put an edible label
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list kelja, stavili na to jestivu naljepnicu,
02:12
that bears no similarity to
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koja nimalo ne naliči
02:14
a Cohiba cigar label, and we put it
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naljepnici cigara Cohiba, stavili to sve
02:16
in a dollar ninety-nine ashtray and charge
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u jeftinu pepeljaru
02:18
you about twenty bucks for it. (Laughter)
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i naplatili vam dvadeset dolara za to. (Smijeh)
02:21
HC: Delicious.
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HC: Vrlo ukusno.
02:23
BR: That's not it, though.
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BR: No, to nije sve.
02:25
Instead of making foods that
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Umjesto da radimo hranu koja
02:27
look like things that you wouldn't eat,
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nalikuje stvarima koje ne biste jeli,
02:29
we decided to make ingredients
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odlučili smo obraditi sastojke tako
02:31
look like dishes that you know.
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da nalikuju poznatim jelima.
02:33
So this is a plate of nachos.
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Ovo je tanjur nachosa.
02:35
The difference between our nachos
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Razlika između naših nachosa
02:37
and the other guy's nachos,
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i nekih drugih nachosa
02:39
is that this is actually a dessert.
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jest u tome da je ovo zapravo desert.
02:41
So the chips are candied,
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Krumpiri su kandirani,
02:43
the ground beef is made from chocolate,
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mljevena govedina zapravo je od čokolade,
02:45
and the cheese is made from a shredded
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a sir je napravljen od ribanog
02:47
mango sorbet that gets shredded
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šerbeta od manga, koji smo naribali
02:49
into liquid nitrogen to look like cheese.
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u tekući dušik kako bi izgledao poput sira.
02:51
And after doing all of this
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Nakon što smo toliko
02:53
dematerialization and reconfiguring
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dematerijalizirali i rekonfigurirali
02:56
of this, of these ingredients, we realized
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ove sastojke, shvatili smo
02:59
that it was pretty cool,
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da je to prilično cool.
03:01
because as we served it, we learned that
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Naime, dok smo to servirali, primijetili smo
03:03
the dish actually behaves like the real thing,
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da se jelo ponaša kao pravo,
03:05
where the cheese begins to melt.
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gdje se sir počinje topiti.
03:07
So when you're looking at this thing
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Kad gledate to
03:09
in the dining room, you have this sensation
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u blagovaonici, imate osjećaj
03:11
that this is actually a plate of nachos,
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da je ovo zaista tanjur nachosa,
03:13
and it's not really until you begin tasting it
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a tek kad ga kušate
03:15
that you realize this is a dessert, and
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shvatite da je to desert
03:17
it's just kind of like a mind-ripper.
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i da vam se igra s mozgom.
03:20
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
03:22
HC: So we had been creating
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HC: Stvarali smo
03:24
all of these dishes out of a
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sva ta jela
03:26
kitchen that was more like
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u kuhinji koja je više nalikovala
03:28
a mechanic's shop than a kitchen, and
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mehaničarskoj radnji nego kuhinji
03:30
the next logical step for us was to install
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i idući logičan korak bio je da ugradimo
03:32
a state-of-the-art laboratory,
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najsuvremeniji laboratorij,
03:34
and that's what we have here.
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i upravo to vidimo ovdje.
03:36
So we put this in the basement, and we
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Ovo smo stavili u podrum
03:38
got really serious about food, like
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i počeli se ozbiljno baviti hranom,
03:40
serious experimentation.
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ozbiljno smo eksperimentirali.
03:42
BR: One of the really cool things about
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BR: Jedna od zaista cool stvari u
03:44
the lab, besides that we have a new
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ovom laboratoriju, osim činjenice da imamo
03:46
science lab in the kitchen, is that,
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novi znanstveni laboratorij u kuhinji, jest
03:48
you know, with this new equipment, and
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da su nam se s tom novom opremom
03:50
this new approach, all these
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i s našim novim pristupom
03:52
different doors to creativity that we never
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otvorila mnoga nova različita vrata u kreativnost
03:54
knew were there began to open, and so the
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koja nikad prije nismo znali otvoriti, i tako su
03:56
experiments and the food and the dishes
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eksperimenti i hrana i jela
03:58
that we created, they just kept going
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koja smo stvarali postajala
04:01
further and further out there.
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sve neobičnija i neobičnija.
04:03
HC: Let's talk about flavor transformation,
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NC: Hajdemo sada preobražavati okuse
04:05
and let's actually make some cool stuff.
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i stvarati neke zaista cool stvari.
04:07
You see a cow with its tongue hanging out.
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Vi vidite kravu kojoj jezik visi van.
04:09
What I see is a cow about to eat something
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Ja vidim kravu koja se sprema pojesti
04:11
delicious. What is that cow eating?
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nešto ukusno. Što ta krava jede?
04:14
And why is it delicious?
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I zašto je ukusno?
04:16
So the cow, basically, eats three basic
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Krave se u biti hrane trima osnovnim
04:18
things in their feed: corn, beets, and barley,
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namirnicama: kukuruzom, ciklom i ječmom.
04:22
and so what I do is I actually
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Ja zapravo izazivam
04:24
challenge my staff with these crazy,
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svoje osoblje svojim ludim,
04:26
wild ideas. Can we take what the cow
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divljim idejama. Možemo li uzeti to što
04:29
eats, remove the cow, and then make
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krava jede, ukloniti kravu i zatim napraviti
04:31
some hamburgers out of that?
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hamburgere od toga?
04:33
And basically the reaction tends to be
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Reakcije koje dobivam uglavnom su
04:35
kind of like this. (Laughter)
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ovakve. (Smijeh)
04:37
BR: Yeah, that's our chef de cuisine,
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BR: Da, to je naš šef kuhinje,
04:39
Chris Jones. This is not the only guy
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Chris Jones. A on nije jedini
04:41
that just flips out when we assign
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koji poludi kad mu dodijelimo
04:43
a ridiculous task, but a lot of these ideas,
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smiješan zadatak, ali mnoge od tih ideja
04:46
they're hard to understand.
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teško je shvatiti.
04:48
They're hard to just get automatically.
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Teško ih je automatski shvatiti.
04:50
There's a lot of research and a lot of
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Mnogo istražujemo i idemo metodom
04:53
failure, trial and error -- I guess, more error --
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pokušaja i pogreške -- više pogreške, valjda --
04:56
that goes into each and every dish,
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u procesu stvaranja svakog pojedinog jela.
04:58
so we don't always get it right, and it takes
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Ne uspijemo svaki put
05:00
a while for us to be able to explain that
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i dugo traje dok to uspijemo objasniti
05:02
to people.
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ljudima.
05:04
HC: So, after about a day of Chris and I
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HC: Nakon što smo Chris i ja jedan dan
05:06
staring at each other, we came up with
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zurili jedan u drugog, smislili smo nešto
05:08
something that was pretty close
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što je prilično nalikovalo
05:10
to the hamburger patty, and as you can
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smjesi za hamburgere. Kao što vidite,
05:12
see it basically forms like hamburger meat.
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oblikuje se jednako kao meso za hamburgere.
05:14
This is made from three ingredients:
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Izrađeno je od tri sastojka:
05:17
beets, barley, corn, and so it
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cikle, ječma i kukuruza, i zaista se
05:19
actually cooks up like hamburger meat,
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peče kao meso za hamburger,
05:21
looks and tastes like hamburger meat,
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izgled i ima okus kao meso za hamburger
05:23
and not only that, but it's basically
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i ne samo to, nego u biti
05:26
removing the cow from the equation.
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izbacuje kravu iz jednadžbe.
05:28
So replicating food, taking it into that
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Kopiranje hrane, unapređenje toga
05:31
next level is where we're going.
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jest naš cilj.
05:33
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
05:36
BR: And it's definitely the world's first
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BR: A to je definitivno i prvi vegetarijanski
05:38
bleeding veggie burger,
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hamburger na svijetu koji krvari,
05:40
which is a cool side effect.
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što je cool nuspojava.
05:43
And a miracle berry, if you're not familiar
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Čudnovata bobica, ako niste čuli za njum
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with it, is a natural ingredient, and it
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prirodan je sastojak
05:47
contains a special property.
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i ima posebnu osobinu.
05:49
It's a glycoprotein called miraculin,
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To je glikoprotein miraculin,
05:51
a naturally occurring thing. It still freaks
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prirodna tvar. Još uvijek me izbezumi
05:53
me out every time I eat it, but it has a
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svaki put kad ga jedem, ali ima
05:55
unique ability to mask certain taste
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jedinstvenu sposobnost da maskira
05:57
receptors on your tongue, so that primarily
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određene recptore okusa na vašem jeziku,
05:59
sour taste receptors, so normally things
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tako da na receptorima za kiselo
06:01
that would taste very sour or tart,
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stvari koje bi imale kiseo ili trpak okus
06:03
somehow begin to taste very sweet.
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nekako dobivaju vrlo sladak okus.
06:06
HC: You're about to eat a lemon,
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HC: Spremate se pojesti limun,
06:08
and now it tastes like lemonade.
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a on sad ima okus kao limunada.
06:10
Let's just stop and think about the
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Razmislimo malo o
06:12
economic benefits of something like that.
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gospodarskim koristima nečeg takvog.
06:14
We could eliminate sugar across the board
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Mogli bismo potpuno ukloniti šećer
06:16
for all confectionary products and sodas,
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iz svih slatkiša i sokova
06:18
and we can replace it with
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i zamijeniti ga
06:20
all-natural fresh fruit.
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potpuno prirodnim, svježim voćem.
06:22
BR: So you see us here cutting up
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BR: Ovdje režemo
06:24
some watermelon. The idea with this
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lubenicu. Ovdje je ideja
06:26
is that we're going to eliminate tons of
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da uklonimo hrpu
06:28
food miles, wasted energy,
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prehrambenih kilometara, potraćene energije
06:31
and overfishing of tuna by creating tuna,
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i prekomjerni izlov tune tako što ćemo stvoriti tunu
06:34
or any exotic produce or item
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ili bilo koji egzotičan proizvod ili namirnicu
06:37
from a very far-away place,
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iz vrlo egzotičnog mjesta,
06:40
with local, organic produce;
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pomoću lokalnih, organskih proizvoda.
06:43
so we have a watermelon from Wisconsin.
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Ovdje imamo lubenicu iz Wisconsina.
06:45
HC: So if miracle berries take sour things
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HC: Ako čudnovate bobice kisele stvari
06:47
and turn them into sweet things,
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pretvaraju u slatke,
06:49
we have this other pixie dust
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mi imamo drugačiji vilinski prah
06:51
that we put on the watermelon, and it
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koji stavljamo u lubenicu i on ju
06:53
makes it go from sweet to savory.
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pretvara iz slatke u slanu, pikantnu.
06:56
So after we do that, we put it into
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Nakon što to učinimo, stavljamo je u
06:58
a vacuum bag, add a little bit of seaweed,
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vakumiranu vrećicu, dodamo malo morske trave,
07:00
some spices, and we roll it, and this
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začina, zarolamo je, a ona
07:03
starts taking on the appearance of tuna.
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počinje nalikovati na tunu.
07:05
So the key now is to make it
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Sad je bitno dobiti
07:07
behave like tuna.
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da se i ponaša kao tuna.
07:09
BR: And then after a quick dip into some
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BR: Nakon što ju nakratko umočimo
07:11
liquid nitrogen to get that perfect sear,
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u tekući dušik kako bismo dobili savršeni rez,
07:14
we really have something that looks,
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zaista imamo nešto što izgleda,
07:16
tastes and behaves like the real thing.
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ima okus i ponaša se kao prava stvar.
07:19
HC: So the key thing to remember here is,
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HC: Najvažnije je zapamtiti da nas
07:22
we don't really care
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zapravo nije briga
07:25
what this tuna really is.
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što ova tuna stvarno jest.
07:27
As long as it's good for you and good for
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Doke god je dobra za vas
07:29
the environment, it doesn't matter.
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i dobra za okoliš, nije bitno.
07:31
But where is this going?
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No, kamo sve to ide?
07:33
How can we take this idea of tricking your
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Kako ideja da prevarimo
07:35
tastebuds and leapfrog it into something
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vaše okusne populjke može postati nešto
07:37
that we can do today that could be
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što ćemo činiti danas i što bi moglo
07:39
a disruptive food technology?
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unijeti pomutnju u prehrambenu tehnologiju?
07:41
So here's the next challenge.
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Ovo je sljedeći izazov.
07:43
I told the staff, let's just take a bunch
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Rekao sam osoblju, uzmimo hrpu
07:45
of wild plants, think of them as
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divljih biljaka i smatrajmo ih
07:47
food ingredients. As long as they're
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sastojcima hrane. Dokle god
07:49
non-poisonous to the human body,
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nisu otrovni za ljudsko tijelo,
07:51
go out around Chicago sidewalks,
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šećite čikaškim pločnicima,
07:53
take it, blend it, cook it and then
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berite ih, meljite, kuhajte
07:55
have everybody flavor-trip on it at Moto.
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i dajte svim gostima u Motu na kušanje.
07:58
Let's charge them a boatload of cash for this
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Naplaćujmo im masno za to
08:00
and see what they think. (Laughter)
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i čujmo što misle. (Smijeh)
08:04
BR: Yeah, so you can imagine, a task
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BR: Da, možete zamisliti, takav zadatak --
08:06
like this -- this is another one of those
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to je još jedan od onih zadataka
08:08
assignments that the kitchen staff
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zbog kojih nas je kuhinjsko osoblje
08:10
hated us for. But we really had to almost
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mrzilo. Ali zaista smo gotovo morali
08:12
relearn how to cook in general,
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ponovno naučiti kako uopće kuhati
08:15
because these are ingredients, you know,
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jer ti su sastojci, znate,
08:17
plant life that we're, one, unfamiliar with,
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biljke s kojima, kao prvo, nismo upoznati,
08:19
and two, we have no reference for how
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a kao drugo, ne znamo
08:21
to cook these things because
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kako ih pripremati
08:23
people don't eat them.
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jer ljudi ih ne jedu.
08:25
So we really had to think about new, creative ways
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Zaista smo morali smišljati nove, kreativne načine
08:27
to flavor, new ways to cook
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kako začiniti, kako kuhati
08:29
and to change texture -- and that was
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i kako promijeniti teksturu -- i to je bio
08:31
the main issue with this challenge.
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glavni element tog izazova.
08:33
HC: So this is where we step into the future
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HC: Time krećemo u budućnost
08:36
and we leapfrog ahead.
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i skačemo prema naprijed.
08:38
So developing nations
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Narodi u razvoju
08:40
and first-world nations,
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i narodi prvog svijeta,
08:42
imagine if you could take these wild plants
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zamislite da možete brati te divlje biljke
08:44
and consume them, food miles would
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i konzumirati ih, prehrambeni kilometri
08:46
basically turn into food feet.
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pretvorili bi se u prehrambene metre.
08:48
This disruptive mentality of what food is
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Uznemirujuća predodžba o tome što je hrana
08:50
would essentially open up the encyclopedia
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otvorila bi enciklopediju
08:53
of what raw ingredients are, even if we just
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onoga što su sirovi sastojci, čak i kad bismo
08:55
swapped out, say, one of these for flour,
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samo jedan od njih zamijenili brašnom,
08:57
that would eliminate so much energy
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to bi uklonilo toliko energije
09:00
and so much waste.
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i mnogo bi se manje rasipalo.
09:02
And to give you a simple example here as to
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Kao primjer onoga
09:04
what we actually fed these customers,
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što smo posluživali gostima,
09:06
there's a bale of hay there
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ovo je bala sijena
09:08
and some crab apples.
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i divlje jabuke.
09:10
And basically we took hay and crab apples
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Uzeli smo to sijeno i divlje jabuke
09:12
and made barbecue sauce out of those two ingredients.
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i napravili umak za roštilj od tih dvaju sastojaka.
09:14
People swore they were eating
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Ljudi su se mogli zakleti da jedu
09:16
barbecue sauce, and this is free food.
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umak za roštilj, a to je besplatna hrana.
09:19
BR: Thanks, guys.
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BR: Hvala, ljudi.
09:22
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
ABOUT THE SPEAKERS
Homaro Cantu - ChefThe executive chef at Chicago's Moto restaurant, Homaro Cantu created postmodern cuisine and futuristic food delivery systems.
Why you should listen
You could call Homaro Cantu a chef -- or an inventor of futuristic food delivery systems. A graduate of Le Cordon Bleu in Portland, Oregon, he worked in Charlie Trotter’s restaurant in Chicago, where he rose to the position of sous chef, then left to found Moto, a path-breaking restaurant with a molecular gastronomy approach. Moto puts Cantu’s concepts and creations into practice by melding food with science, technology and art. Michael Eisner once described Cantu as the most revolutionary person in food since Ray Kroc.
Through his company Cantu Designs, Chef Cantu filed numerous patent applications covering dining implements, cookware, printed food and hoped to develop his inventions for commercial, humanitarian and aerospace applications. In 2013 he released The Miracle Berry Diet Cookbook to imagine uses for the flavor-tripping "miracle fruit." As he said: "Any idea's a great idea as long as it tastes great." Cantu passed away in April 2015.
Homaro Cantu | Speaker | TED.com
Ben Roche - Chef
Ben Roche is the pastry chef at Moto, in Chicago, and was the co-host, with Homaro Cantu, of the TV show "Future Food."
Why you should listen
Ben Roche is the pastry chef of Moto restaurant in Chicago and co-host of the series "Future Food" on Discovery’s Planet Green network. Classically trained, he comes up with food concepts and/or dishes that draw inspiration from all over: as he says, "mechanical, artistic, experimental, etc."
More profile about the speakerBen Roche | Speaker | TED.com