TED2011
Homaro Cantu + Ben Roche: Cooking as alchemy
Homaro Cantu + Ben Roche: Varenie ako alchýmia
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Homaro Cantu a Ben Roche prišli z chicagskej reštaurácie, Moto, ktorá sa hrá s novými spôsobmi prípravy a konzumácie jedla. No za zábavou a objavovaním chutí je ozajstný zámer: Môžeme novú potravinársku technológiu využiť k niečomu užitočnému?
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:15
Ben Roche: So I'm Ben, by the way.
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Ben Roche: Ja som Ben, mimochodom.
00:17
Homaro Cantu: And I'm Homaro.
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Homaro Cantu: Ja som Homaro.
00:19
BR: And we're chefs. So when Moto
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BR: A sme šéfkuchári. Takže keď sa Moto
00:21
opened in 2004, people didn't really know
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v roku 2004 otvorilo, ľudia nevedeli,
00:23
what to expect. A lot of people thought
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čo majú čakať. Veľa z nich si myslelo,
00:25
that it was a Japanese restaurant, and
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že je to japonská reštaurácia, a
00:27
maybe it was the name, maybe it was
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možno to bolo názvom, možno
00:29
the logo, which was like a Japanese
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logom, ktoré vyzerá ako japonský
00:31
character, but anyway, we had all these
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znak, no každopádne sme mali
00:33
requests for Japanese food, which is
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žiadosti o japonské jedlo, ktoré
00:35
really not what we did. And after about
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sme ale vôbec nerobili. A asi po
00:37
the ten thousandth request for a maki roll,
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10 000. žiadosti o maki rolku
00:39
we decided to give the people
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sme sa rozhodli dať ľuďom,
00:41
what they wanted. So this picture is
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čo chcú. Takže tento obrázok je
00:43
an example of printed food, and this was
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príklad vytlačeného jedla a bol to
00:45
the first foray into what we like to call
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prvý prienik do toho, čo voláme
00:47
flavor transformation. So this is all
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chuťová transformácia. Takže toto sú všetko
00:49
the ingredients, all the flavor of, you know,
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ingrediencie, všetky chute
00:51
a standard maki roll, printed onto
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štandardnej maki rolky, vytlačené na
00:53
a little piece of paper.
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malom kúsku papiera.
00:55
HC: So our diners started to get bored
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HC: Našich hostí začal tento nápad
00:57
with this idea, and we decided to give them
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nudiť, tak sme sa rozhodli dať im
00:59
the same course twice, so here we actually
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ten istý chod dvakrát. Takže sme vlastne
01:02
took an element from the maki roll and
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vzali prísadu do maki rolky a
01:04
and took a picture of a dish and then
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a urobili obrázok jedla a potom
01:06
basically served that picture with the dish.
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sme v podstate servírovali obrázok s týmto jedlom.
01:09
So this dish in particular is basically
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Takže konkrétne toto jedlo je v podstate
01:11
champagne with seafood.
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šampanské s morskými plodmi.
01:13
The champagne grapes that you see are
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Hrozno na šampanské, ktoré vidíte,
01:15
actually carbonated grapes. A little bit of
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je v skutočnosti hrozno nasýtené oxidom uhličitým.
01:17
seafood and some crème fraiche and the
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Trochu morských plodov a čerstvej smotany a
01:19
picture actually tastes exactly like the dish. (Laughter)
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obrázok v skutočnosti chutí presne ako toto jedlo. (Smiech)
01:22
BR: But it's not all just edible pictures.
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BR: Ale nejde len o jedlé obrázky.
01:24
We decided to do something
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Rozhodli sme sa urobiť niečo
01:26
a little bit different and transform flavors
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trochu iné a transformovať chute,
01:28
that were very familiar -- so in this case,
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ktoré boli dobre známe - takže v tomto prípade
01:31
we have carrot cake.
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tu máme mrkvový koláč.
01:33
So we take a carrot cake, put it
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Takže sme vzali mrkvový koláč, dali ho
01:35
in a blender, and we have kind of like
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do mixéra a dostali sme taký
01:37
a carrot cake juice, and then that went into
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mrkvový koláčový džús, a to sa potom nalialo do
01:39
a balloon frozen in liquid nitrogen to create
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balóna zmrazeného v tekutom dusíku, čím vznikla
01:41
this hollow shell of carrot cake
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takáto dutá škrupina okolo zmrzliny z
01:44
ice cream, I guess, and it comes off
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mrkvového koláča. A vyzerá to
01:46
looking like, you know,
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ako, viete,
01:48
Jupiter's floating around your plate.
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Jupiter obiehajúci okolo vášho taniera.
01:50
So yeah, we're transforming things into
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Takže veci transformujeme do
01:52
something that you have absolutely
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niečoho, čo sa nedá porovnať
01:54
no reference for.
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s absolútne ničím.
01:56
HC: And here's something we have no
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HC: A tu je niečo, čo nemôžeme
01:58
reference to eat. This is a cigar, and
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porovnať s nijakým jedlým. Toto je cigara a,
02:00
basically it's a Cuban cigar made out of
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v podstate, je to kubánska cigara vyrobená z
02:02
a Cuban pork sandwich, so we take these
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kubánskeho morčacieho sendviču. Takže sme vzali
02:04
spices that go into the pork shoulder,
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korenie, ktoré sa dáva do morčacieho pliecka,
02:06
we fashion that into ash. We take
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a vytvorili sme z toho popol.
02:08
the sandwich and wrap it up in
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Vzali sme sendvič a zabalili ho do
02:10
a collard green, put an edible label
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kapustového listu, dali naň jedlý papierový štítok,
02:12
that bears no similarity to
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ktorý sa vôbec nepodobá na
02:14
a Cohiba cigar label, and we put it
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štítky cigár Cohiba, a dali sme to
02:16
in a dollar ninety-nine ashtray and charge
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do popolníka za $1.99 a účtovali
02:18
you about twenty bucks for it. (Laughter)
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vám za to asi $20. (Smiech)
02:21
HC: Delicious.
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HC: Výborné.
02:23
BR: That's not it, though.
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BR: Ale to ešte nie je všetko.
02:25
Instead of making foods that
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Namiesto toho, aby sme robili jedlá, ktoré
02:27
look like things that you wouldn't eat,
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vyzerajú ako niečo, čo by ste nejedli,
02:29
we decided to make ingredients
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rozhodli sme sa urobiť to tak, že ingrediencie
02:31
look like dishes that you know.
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vyzerajú ako jedlá, ktoré poznáte.
02:33
So this is a plate of nachos.
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Takže toto je tanier nachos.
02:35
The difference between our nachos
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Rozdiel medzi naším nachos
02:37
and the other guy's nachos,
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a nachos od niekoho iného
02:39
is that this is actually a dessert.
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je ten, že toto je v skutočnosti dezert.
02:41
So the chips are candied,
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Takže chipsy sú kandizované,
02:43
the ground beef is made from chocolate,
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mleté hovädzie je z čokolády
02:45
and the cheese is made from a shredded
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a syr je z nastrúhaného
02:47
mango sorbet that gets shredded
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mangového sorbetu, ktorý bol nastrúhaný
02:49
into liquid nitrogen to look like cheese.
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do tekutého dusíka, aby vyzeral ako syr.
02:51
And after doing all of this
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A po všetkom tomto
02:53
dematerialization and reconfiguring
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odhmotnení a pretvorení
02:56
of this, of these ingredients, we realized
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týchto ingrediencií, sme si uvedomili,
02:59
that it was pretty cool,
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že je to strašne super,
03:01
because as we served it, we learned that
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pretože keď sme to podávali, všimli sme si, že
03:03
the dish actually behaves like the real thing,
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jedlá sa v skutočnosti správajú, ako keby boli ozajstné,
03:05
where the cheese begins to melt.
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keď sa syr začne topiť.
03:07
So when you're looking at this thing
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Takže, keď sa pozeráte na túto vec
03:09
in the dining room, you have this sensation
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v jedálni, máte pocit,
03:11
that this is actually a plate of nachos,
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že je to naozajstný tanier nachos,
03:13
and it's not really until you begin tasting it
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a až keď to ochutnáte
03:15
that you realize this is a dessert, and
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zistíte, že je to dezert a
03:17
it's just kind of like a mind-ripper.
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a úplne vás to ohromí.
03:20
(Laughter)
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(Smiech)
03:22
HC: So we had been creating
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HC: Všetky tieto
03:24
all of these dishes out of a
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jedlá sme vyrábali
03:26
kitchen that was more like
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v kuchyni, ktorá bola skôr ako
03:28
a mechanic's shop than a kitchen, and
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mechanický obchod než kuchyňa, a
03:30
the next logical step for us was to install
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ďalším logickým krokom pre nás bolo zriadiť
03:32
a state-of-the-art laboratory,
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najmodernejšie laboratórium,
03:34
and that's what we have here.
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a to máme tu.
03:36
So we put this in the basement, and we
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Dali sme ho do suterénu a
03:38
got really serious about food, like
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jedlo sme začali brať naozaj vážne,
03:40
serious experimentation.
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ako vážne experimentovanie.
03:42
BR: One of the really cool things about
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BR: Na laboratóriu je úžasné to,
03:44
the lab, besides that we have a new
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mimo toho, že máme nový
03:46
science lab in the kitchen, is that,
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vedecký labák v kuchyni, že
03:48
you know, with this new equipment, and
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s týmto novým zariadením a
03:50
this new approach, all these
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týmto novým prístupom sa začali
03:52
different doors to creativity that we never
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otvárať všetky tie rôzne dvere ku kreativite,
03:54
knew were there began to open, and so the
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o ktorých sme dovtedy nevedeli, a tak
03:56
experiments and the food and the dishes
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experimenty, a jedlo a chody,
03:58
that we created, they just kept going
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ktoré sme vytvorili, zachádzali
04:01
further and further out there.
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ďalej a ďalej.
04:03
HC: Let's talk about flavor transformation,
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HC: Poďme hovoriť o chuťovej transformácii
04:05
and let's actually make some cool stuff.
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a poďme urobiť niečo naozaj skvelé.
04:07
You see a cow with its tongue hanging out.
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Vy vidíte kravu, ktorej visí jazyk.
04:09
What I see is a cow about to eat something
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Ja vidím kravu, ktorá sa chystá zjesť niečo
04:11
delicious. What is that cow eating?
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veľmi chutné. Čo tá krava je?
04:14
And why is it delicious?
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A prečo je to veľmi chutné?
04:16
So the cow, basically, eats three basic
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Takže krava v podstate je tri
04:18
things in their feed: corn, beets, and barley,
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základné veci: kukuricu, repu, jačmeň.
04:22
and so what I do is I actually
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A ja robím to, že vlastne
04:24
challenge my staff with these crazy,
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mojim zamestnancom prezentujem tieto bláznivé, divoké
04:26
wild ideas. Can we take what the cow
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nápady ako výzvu. Môžeme vziať to, čo krava
04:29
eats, remove the cow, and then make
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je, bez kravy, a potom z toho
04:31
some hamburgers out of that?
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urobiť hamburgery?
04:33
And basically the reaction tends to be
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A v podstate zvyčajne je reakcia
04:35
kind of like this. (Laughter)
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nejaká takáto. (Smiech)
04:37
BR: Yeah, that's our chef de cuisine,
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BR: Áno, to je náš šéfkuchár,
04:39
Chris Jones. This is not the only guy
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Chris Jones. A to nie je jediný človek,
04:41
that just flips out when we assign
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ktorý sa naštve, keď zadáme nejakú
04:43
a ridiculous task, but a lot of these ideas,
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šialenú úlohu. No mnohým z týchto nápadov
04:46
they're hard to understand.
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je ťažké porozumieť.
04:48
They're hard to just get automatically.
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Je ťažké urobiť ich automaticky.
04:50
There's a lot of research and a lot of
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Veľa výskumu a veľa
04:53
failure, trial and error -- I guess, more error --
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zlyhaní, pokusov a omylov - myslím, že viac omylov -
04:56
that goes into each and every dish,
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putuje do každého jedného pokrmu,
04:58
so we don't always get it right, and it takes
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takže nie vždy sa nám to podarí a chvíľu
05:00
a while for us to be able to explain that
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nám trvá, kým to ľuďom
05:02
to people.
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vysvetlíme.
05:04
HC: So, after about a day of Chris and I
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HC: Tak asi po dni toho, ako sme na seba
05:06
staring at each other, we came up with
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Chris a ja len zízali, sme vymysleli
05:08
something that was pretty close
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niečo, čo sa veľmi približovalo
05:10
to the hamburger patty, and as you can
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hamburgrovej hovädzej fašírke, a ako vidíte,
05:12
see it basically forms like hamburger meat.
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má to v podstate formu ako hamburgrové mäso.
05:14
This is made from three ingredients:
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Je to vyrobené z troch ingrediencií:
05:17
beets, barley, corn, and so it
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cvikla, jačmeň, kukurica, a tak sa to
05:19
actually cooks up like hamburger meat,
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vlastne pripraví ako hamburgrové mäso,
05:21
looks and tastes like hamburger meat,
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vyzerá a chutí to ako hamburgrové mäso,
05:23
and not only that, but it's basically
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a nie len to. Navyše to z tejto
05:26
removing the cow from the equation.
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rovnice vyníma kravu.
05:28
So replicating food, taking it into that
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Takže nahrádzanie jedla, vynášanie ho
05:31
next level is where we're going.
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do vyšších úrovní, je to, čomu sa venujeme.
05:33
(Applause)
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(Potlesk)
05:36
BR: And it's definitely the world's first
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BR: A je to celkom určite prvý
05:38
bleeding veggie burger,
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krvavý vegetariánsky burger na svete,
05:40
which is a cool side effect.
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čo je skvelý sprievodný jav.
05:43
And a miracle berry, if you're not familiar
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A zázračná bobuľa, pokiaľ ju nepoznáte,
05:45
with it, is a natural ingredient, and it
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je prírodná ingrediencia, ktorá
05:47
contains a special property.
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má špeciálnu vlastnosť.
05:49
It's a glycoprotein called miraculin,
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Je to glykoproteín s názvom mirakulín,
05:51
a naturally occurring thing. It still freaks
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prirodzene sa vyskytujúca molekula. Ešte stále ma to
05:53
me out every time I eat it, but it has a
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desí, zakaždým, keď to jem, no má to
05:55
unique ability to mask certain taste
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jedinečnú schopnosť maskovať určité chuťové
05:57
receptors on your tongue, so that primarily
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receptory na vašom jazyku, primárne
05:59
sour taste receptors, so normally things
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okysľuje chuťové receptory, takže veci, ktoré
06:01
that would taste very sour or tart,
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by normálne chutili veľmi kyslo alebo trpko,
06:03
somehow begin to taste very sweet.
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začnú chutiť veľmi sladko.
06:06
HC: You're about to eat a lemon,
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HC: Idete zjesť citrón
06:08
and now it tastes like lemonade.
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a on zrazu chutí ako limonáda.
06:10
Let's just stop and think about the
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Zastavme sa a popremýšľajme o
06:12
economic benefits of something like that.
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ekonomických prínosoch niečoho takéhoto.
06:14
We could eliminate sugar across the board
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Mohli by sme eliminovať cukor
06:16
for all confectionary products and sodas,
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vo všetkých cukrárenských produktoch a nápojoch,
06:18
and we can replace it with
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a mohli by sme ho nahradiť
06:20
all-natural fresh fruit.
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kompletne prírodným čerstvým ovocím.
06:22
BR: So you see us here cutting up
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BR: Takže tu nás vidíte, ako krájame
06:24
some watermelon. The idea with this
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červený melón. Nápad, ktorý sa za týmto skrýva,
06:26
is that we're going to eliminate tons of
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je ten, že eliminujeme tony
06:28
food miles, wasted energy,
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potravinových míľ, premrhanej energie
06:31
and overfishing of tuna by creating tuna,
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a nadmerného lovu tuniakov, vytvorením tuniaka,
06:34
or any exotic produce or item
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alebo hocijakej exotickej plodiny
06:37
from a very far-away place,
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zo vzdialených oblastí
06:40
with local, organic produce;
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pomocou miestnej, organickej produkcie;
06:43
so we have a watermelon from Wisconsin.
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takže tu máme červený melón z Wisconsinu.
06:45
HC: So if miracle berries take sour things
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HC: Takže, ak zázračné bobule menia kyslé veci
06:47
and turn them into sweet things,
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na sladké,
06:49
we have this other pixie dust
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máme tu ďalší takýto zázračný prach,
06:51
that we put on the watermelon, and it
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ktorý dáme na červený melón a
06:53
makes it go from sweet to savory.
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to ho zmení zo sladkého na slaný.
06:56
So after we do that, we put it into
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Potom ho dáme
06:58
a vacuum bag, add a little bit of seaweed,
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do vákuového vrecka, pridáme trochu morských rias,
07:00
some spices, and we roll it, and this
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trochu korenia, a zrolujeme to, a
07:03
starts taking on the appearance of tuna.
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začne to vyzerať ako tuniak.
07:05
So the key now is to make it
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Takže teraz je najdôležitejšie postarať sa
07:07
behave like tuna.
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o to, aby sa to chovalo ako tuniak.
07:09
BR: And then after a quick dip into some
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BR: A potom po rýchlom ponorení do
07:11
liquid nitrogen to get that perfect sear,
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tekutého dusíka, aby sme získali tu dokonalú kôrku,
07:14
we really have something that looks,
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dostaneme niečo, čo fakt vyzerá,
07:16
tastes and behaves like the real thing.
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chutí a správa sa ako ozajstná vec.
07:19
HC: So the key thing to remember here is,
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HC: Tu je kľúčové zapamätať si,
07:22
we don't really care
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že nás nezaujíma,
07:25
what this tuna really is.
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čo ten tuniak naozaj je.
07:27
As long as it's good for you and good for
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Pokiaľ je to dobré pre vás a dobré
07:29
the environment, it doesn't matter.
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pre životné prostredia, nezáleží na tom.
07:31
But where is this going?
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No kam to smeruje?
07:33
How can we take this idea of tricking your
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Ako môžeme vziať tento nápad s podvedením vašich
07:35
tastebuds and leapfrog it into something
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chuťových buniek a využiť ho v niečom,
07:37
that we can do today that could be
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čo môžeme urobiť dnes a čo by mohlo byť
07:39
a disruptive food technology?
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prevratnou potravinárskou technológiou?
07:41
So here's the next challenge.
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Takže tu je ďalšia výzva.
07:43
I told the staff, let's just take a bunch
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Povedal som našim zamestnancom: vezmime pár
07:45
of wild plants, think of them as
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divokých rastlín a uvažujme nad nimi ako
07:47
food ingredients. As long as they're
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nad ingredienciami do jedla. Pokiaľ nie sú
07:49
non-poisonous to the human body,
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pre ľudí jedovaté,
07:51
go out around Chicago sidewalks,
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prejdite sa po chicagských chodníkoch,
07:53
take it, blend it, cook it and then
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vezmite ich, zmiešajte, uvarte a potom
07:55
have everybody flavor-trip on it at Moto.
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ich dajte v Moto ochutnať ľuďom.
07:58
Let's charge them a boatload of cash for this
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Naúčtujme im za to kopu peňazí
08:00
and see what they think. (Laughter)
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a uvidíme, čo si o tom budú myslieť. (Smiech)
08:04
BR: Yeah, so you can imagine, a task
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BR: Áno, viete si asi predstaviť úlohu,
08:06
like this -- this is another one of those
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ako je táto - toto je ďalšia z takých
08:08
assignments that the kitchen staff
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úloh, pre ktoré nás personál v kuchyni
08:10
hated us for. But we really had to almost
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nenávidel. No museli sme sa takmer
08:12
relearn how to cook in general,
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znova naučiť ako variť,
08:15
because these are ingredients, you know,
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pretože toto sú ingrediencie, ktoré sú
08:17
plant life that we're, one, unfamiliar with,
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z rastlinnej ríše, ktorú, po prvé, nepoznáme,
08:19
and two, we have no reference for how
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a po druhé, nemáme žiadne recepty na to,
08:21
to cook these things because
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ako tieto veci pripravovať, pretože
08:23
people don't eat them.
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ľudia ich nejedia.
08:25
So we really had to think about new, creative ways
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Takže sme fakt museli premýšľať nad novými, kreatívnymi spôsobmi,
08:27
to flavor, new ways to cook
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ako ochucovať, novými spôsobmi ako variť
08:29
and to change texture -- and that was
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a meniť štruktúru - a to bol
08:31
the main issue with this challenge.
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hlavný problém tejto výzvy.
08:33
HC: So this is where we step into the future
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HC: Tu sme skutočne
08:36
and we leapfrog ahead.
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urobili pokrok.
08:38
So developing nations
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Takže rozvojové národy
08:40
and first-world nations,
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a národy rozvinutého sveta,
08:42
imagine if you could take these wild plants
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predstavte si, že by ste mohli vziať tieto divoké rastliny
08:44
and consume them, food miles would
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a konzumovať ich. Kilometre dopravy potravín by sa
08:46
basically turn into food feet.
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v podstate zmenili na metre.
08:48
This disruptive mentality of what food is
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Toto prevratné uvažovanie nad tým, čo je jedlom,
08:50
would essentially open up the encyclopedia
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by v zásade otvorilo encyklopédiu
08:53
of what raw ingredients are, even if we just
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toho, čo sú surové ingrediencie. Ak by sme
08:55
swapped out, say, one of these for flour,
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jednou z nich nahradili, povedzme, len múku,
08:57
that would eliminate so much energy
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eliminovalo by to strašne veľa energie
09:00
and so much waste.
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a plytvania.
09:02
And to give you a simple example here as to
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A aby som vám dal jednoduchý príklad toho,
09:04
what we actually fed these customers,
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čím sme vlastne nakŕmili našich zákazníkov,
09:06
there's a bale of hay there
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tu máme balík sena
09:08
and some crab apples.
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a nejaké plané jablká
09:10
And basically we took hay and crab apples
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A v podstate vezmeme seno a plané jablká
09:12
and made barbecue sauce out of those two ingredients.
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a z týchto dvoch ingrediencií vyrobíme grilovaciu omáčku.
09:14
People swore they were eating
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Ľudia prisahali, že jedli
09:16
barbecue sauce, and this is free food.
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grilovaciu omáčku, a toto je voľne rastúce jedlo.
09:19
BR: Thanks, guys.
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BR: Ďakujeme.
09:22
(Applause)
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(Potlesk)
ABOUT THE SPEAKERS
Homaro Cantu - ChefThe executive chef at Chicago's Moto restaurant, Homaro Cantu created postmodern cuisine and futuristic food delivery systems.
Why you should listen
You could call Homaro Cantu a chef -- or an inventor of futuristic food delivery systems. A graduate of Le Cordon Bleu in Portland, Oregon, he worked in Charlie Trotter’s restaurant in Chicago, where he rose to the position of sous chef, then left to found Moto, a path-breaking restaurant with a molecular gastronomy approach. Moto puts Cantu’s concepts and creations into practice by melding food with science, technology and art. Michael Eisner once described Cantu as the most revolutionary person in food since Ray Kroc.
Through his company Cantu Designs, Chef Cantu filed numerous patent applications covering dining implements, cookware, printed food and hoped to develop his inventions for commercial, humanitarian and aerospace applications. In 2013 he released The Miracle Berry Diet Cookbook to imagine uses for the flavor-tripping "miracle fruit." As he said: "Any idea's a great idea as long as it tastes great." Cantu passed away in April 2015.
Homaro Cantu | Speaker | TED.com
Ben Roche - Chef
Ben Roche is the pastry chef at Moto, in Chicago, and was the co-host, with Homaro Cantu, of the TV show "Future Food."
Why you should listen
Ben Roche is the pastry chef of Moto restaurant in Chicago and co-host of the series "Future Food" on Discovery’s Planet Green network. Classically trained, he comes up with food concepts and/or dishes that draw inspiration from all over: as he says, "mechanical, artistic, experimental, etc."
More profile about the speakerBen Roche | Speaker | TED.com