TEDYouth 2015
Danit Peleg: Forget shopping. Soon you'll download your new clothes
Danit Peleg: Zaboravite na shopping. Uskoro ćete odjeću skidati s Interneta.
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Odjeća koju možete skinuti s Interneta i printati bi mogla postati stvarnost u vašem ormaru. Školski modni projekt dizajnerice Danit Peleg se pretvorio u zbirku 3D-printanih dizajna koji posjeduju snagu i fleksibilnost svakodnevne odjeće.
"Moda je prilično opipljiva stvar", kaže Danit. "Pitam se kako će svijet u kojem živimo izgledati kada nam odjeća bude bila digitalna."
Danit Peleg - Fashion designer
Danit Peleg created the first 3D-printed fashion collection printed entirely using home printers. Full bio
Danit Peleg created the first 3D-printed fashion collection printed entirely using home printers. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:06
In the past few months, I've been
traveling for weeks at a time
traveling for weeks at a time
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Zadnjih sam par mjeseci putovala
po nekoliko tjedana za redom
po nekoliko tjedana za redom
00:10
with only one suitcase of clothes.
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samo s jednim kovčegom odjeće.
00:12
One day, I was invited
to an important event,
to an important event,
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Jednog dana su me pozvali na
važan događaj,
važan događaj,
00:14
and I wanted to wear
something special and new for it.
something special and new for it.
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za koji sam htjela odjenuti
nešto posebno i novo.
nešto posebno i novo.
00:17
So I looked through my suitcase
and I couldn't find anything to wear.
and I couldn't find anything to wear.
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Stoga sam tražila po kovčegu
no nisam uspjela pronaći ništa takvo.
no nisam uspjela pronaći ništa takvo.
00:21
I was lucky to be at the technology
conference on that day,
conference on that day,
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Na sreću, prisustvovala sam
tehnološkoj konferenciji taj dan,
tehnološkoj konferenciji taj dan,
00:24
and I had access to 3D printers.
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i imala pristup 3D pisaču.
00:27
So I quickly designed
a skirt on my computer,
a skirt on my computer,
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Nabrzinu sam dizajnirala
suknju na računalu,
suknju na računalu,
00:29
and I loaded the file on the printer.
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i učitala datoteku u pisač.
00:31
It just printed the pieces overnight.
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Dijelovi su se ispisali preko noći.
00:34
The next morning,
I just took all the pieces,
I just took all the pieces,
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Sljedeće jutro,
Uzela sam djeliće haljine,
Uzela sam djeliće haljine,
00:36
assembled them together in my hotel room,
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sastavila ih u hotelskoj sobi,
00:38
and this is actually the skirt
that I'm wearing right now.
that I'm wearing right now.
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i to je zapravo suknja koju
trenutno nosim.
trenutno nosim.
00:41
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
00:45
So it wasn't the first time
that I printed clothes.
that I printed clothes.
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Ok, nije prvi puta da
sam isprintala odjeću.
sam isprintala odjeću.
00:47
For my senior collection
at fashion design school,
at fashion design school,
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Za svoj završni rad
u modnoj dizajnerskoj školi,
u modnoj dizajnerskoj školi,
00:50
I decided to try and 3D print
an entire fashion collection from my home.
an entire fashion collection from my home.
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Odlučila sam isprobati 3D isprintati
čitavu modnu kolekciju iz svog doma.
čitavu modnu kolekciju iz svog doma.
00:55
The problem was that I barely knew
anything about 3D printing,
anything about 3D printing,
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Problem je da sam tada jedva išta
znala o 3D printanju,
znala o 3D printanju,
00:58
and I had only nine months to figure out
how to print five fashionable looks.
how to print five fashionable looks.
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a imala sam samo 9 mjeseci skužiti
kako isprintati pet modnih ogleda.
kako isprintati pet modnih ogleda.
01:04
I always felt most creative
when I worked from home.
when I worked from home.
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Uvijek sam se osjećala
najkreativnijom radeći od doma.
najkreativnijom radeći od doma.
01:07
I loved experimenting with new materials,
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Obožavala sam eksperimentirati
s novim materijalima
s novim materijalima
01:09
and I always tried
to develop new techniques
to develop new techniques
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i oduvijek sam pokušavala
razviti nove tehnike
razviti nove tehnike
01:12
to make the most unique textiles
for my fashion projects.
for my fashion projects.
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da bih stvorila jedinstvene tekstile
za svoje modne projekte.
za svoje modne projekte.
01:16
I loved going to old factories
and weird stores
and weird stores
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Obožavala sam ići u stare
tvornice i neobične trgovine
tvornice i neobične trgovine
01:18
in search of leftovers
of strange powders and weird materials,
of strange powders and weird materials,
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u potrazi za ostacima
neobičnih prašaka i čudnih materijala,
neobičnih prašaka i čudnih materijala,
01:23
and then bring them home to experiment on.
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i donositi ih doma za eksperimentiranje.
01:26
As you can probably imagine,
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Vjerojatno možete zamisliti,
01:27
my roommates didn't like that at all.
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da se mojim cimerima to
uopće nije sviđalo.
uopće nije sviđalo.
01:29
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
01:30
So I decided to move on
to working with big machines,
to working with big machines,
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Tako da sam odlučila
početi raditi s velikom mašinerijom,
početi raditi s velikom mašinerijom,
01:34
ones that didn't fit in my living room.
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onom koja nije mogla
stati u moju dnevnu sobu
stati u moju dnevnu sobu
01:36
I love the exact
and the custom work I can do
and the custom work I can do
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Obožavam preciznost i
prilagođenost koju mogu
prilagođenost koju mogu
01:39
with all kinds of fashion technologies,
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postići sa svim oblicima
modne tehnologije,
modne tehnologije,
01:41
like knitting machines
and laser cutting and silk printing.
and laser cutting and silk printing.
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poput šivaćih strojeva,
laserskog izrezivanja i printanja svile.
laserskog izrezivanja i printanja svile.
01:45
One summer break, I came here
to New York for an internship
to New York for an internship
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Za vrijeme jednih ljetnih praznika,
došla sam u New York na praksu
došla sam u New York na praksu
01:49
at a fashion house in Chinatown.
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u modnu kuću u kinesku četvrt.
01:51
We worked on two incredible dresses
that were 3D printed.
that were 3D printed.
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Radili smo na dvije nevjerojatne
3D printane haljine.
3D printane haljine.
01:56
They were amazing --
like you can see here.
like you can see here.
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Bile su nevjerojatne --
kao što možete vidjeti..
kao što možete vidjeti..
01:59
But I had a few issues with them.
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Međutim, bilo je par
problema s njima.
problema s njima.
02:00
They were made from hard plastics
and that's why they were very breakable.
and that's why they were very breakable.
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Bile su izrađene od tvrde plastike
te su stoga bile prilično lomljive.
te su stoga bile prilično lomljive.
02:05
The models couldn't sit in them,
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Modeli nisu mogli
sjediti u njima
sjediti u njima
02:06
and they even got scratched
from the plastics under their arms.
from the plastics under their arms.
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i čak bi se ogrebali od
tu plastiku ispod ruku.
tu plastiku ispod ruku.
02:10
With 3D printing, the designers
had so much freedom
had so much freedom
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S 3D printanjem, dizajneri su
dobili nevjerojatnu slobodu
dobili nevjerojatnu slobodu
02:13
to make the dresses look
exactly like they wanted,
exactly like they wanted,
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u kreiranju haljina
baš kako su ih zamislili,
baš kako su ih zamislili,
02:17
but still, they were very dependent
on big and expensive industrial printers
on big and expensive industrial printers
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međutim, i dalje su ovisili o velikim
i skupocjenim industrijskim printerima
i skupocjenim industrijskim printerima
02:22
that were located in a lab
far from their studio.
far from their studio.
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koji se nalaze u laboratorijima
daleko od njihovih studija.
daleko od njihovih studija.
02:26
Later that year, a friend gave me
a 3D printed necklace,
a 3D printed necklace,
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Kasnije te godine, prijatelj mi je
poklonio 3D isprintanu ogrlicu,
poklonio 3D isprintanu ogrlicu,
02:30
printed using a home printer.
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isprintanu koristeći kućni pisač.
02:32
I knew that these printers
were much cheaper
were much cheaper
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Znala sam da su ti pisači
višestruko jeftiniji
višestruko jeftiniji
02:34
and much more accessible
than the ones we used at my internship.
than the ones we used at my internship.
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i bitno dostupniji od onih koje smo
koristili za vrijeme moje prakse.
koristili za vrijeme moje prakse.
02:38
So I looked at the necklace,
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Stoga sam gledajući ogrlicu,
02:39
and then I thought, "If I can
print a necklace from home,
print a necklace from home,
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pomislila "ukoliko mogu isprintati
ogrlicu doma,
ogrlicu doma,
02:43
why not print my clothes from home, too?"
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zašto ne bih mogla isprintati
odjeću doma"?
odjeću doma"?
02:46
I really liked the idea that I wouldn't
have to go to the market
have to go to the market
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Zbilja mi se svidjela ideja da ne
moram ići na tržnicu
moram ići na tržnicu
02:49
and pick fabrics that
someone else chose to sell --
someone else chose to sell --
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i odabirati tkanine koje
je netko drugi odlučio prodati,
je netko drugi odlučio prodati,
02:52
I could just design them
and print them directly from home.
and print them directly from home.
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jednostavno sam ih mogla dizajnirati
i printati direktno od doma.
i printati direktno od doma.
02:57
I found a small makerspace,
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Pronašla sam malenu manufakturu,
02:59
where I learned everything
I know about 3D printing.
I know about 3D printing.
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gdje sam saznala sve što
znam o 3D printanju.
znam o 3D printanju.
03:02
Right away, they literally
gave me the key to the lab,
gave me the key to the lab,
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Odmah su mi u startu
dali ključeve laboratorija,
dali ključeve laboratorija,
03:05
so I could experiment
into the night, every night.
into the night, every night.
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da mogu eksperimentirati
kasno u noć, svaku noć.
kasno u noć, svaku noć.
03:08
The main challenge was to find the right
filament for printing clothes with.
filament for printing clothes with.
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Glavni izazov je bio pronaći odgovarajuće
filamente za printanje odjeće.
filamente za printanje odjeće.
03:12
So what is a filament?
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Ok, no što je filament?
03:13
Filament is the material
you feed the printer with.
you feed the printer with.
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Filament je materijal
kojim 3D pisač printa.
kojim 3D pisač printa.
03:16
And I spent a month or so
experimenting with PLA,
experimenting with PLA,
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I provela sam mjesec dana
eksperimentirajući s PLA-om
eksperimentirajući s PLA-om
03:19
which is a hard and scratchy,
breakable material.
breakable material.
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koji je tvrd i lomljiv materijal
koji svrbi.
koji svrbi.
03:23
The breakthrough came
when I was introduced to Filaflex,
when I was introduced to Filaflex,
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Otkriće je došlo kada sam upoznala
Filaflex,
Filaflex,
03:25
which is a new kind of filament.
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koji je novi tip filamenta.
03:27
It's strong, yet very flexible.
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Čvrst je, no istovremeno
i vrlo fleksibilan.
i vrlo fleksibilan.
03:29
And with it, I was able to print
the first garment,
the first garment,
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I s njime sam napokon mogla isprintati
svoj prvi odjevni predmet,
svoj prvi odjevni predmet,
03:33
the red jacket that had
the word "Liberté" --
the word "Liberté" --
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crvenu jaknu koja je imala riječ
"Liberté" na sebi --
"Liberté" na sebi --
03:37
"freedom" in French --
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"sloboda" na Francuskom,
03:38
embedded into it.
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ugrađenu u sebe.
03:39
I chose this word because I felt
so empowered and free
so empowered and free
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Odabrala sam ovu riječ jer sam
se osjećala moćno i slobodno
se osjećala moćno i slobodno
03:42
when I could just design
a garment from my home
a garment from my home
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jer sam mogla dizajnirati svoju
odjeću od doma
odjeću od doma
03:44
and then print it by myself.
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i sama je isprintati po potrebi.
03:47
And actually, you can easily
download this jacket,
download this jacket,
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I zapravo, možete jednostavno
skinuti ovu jaknu s Interneta,
skinuti ovu jaknu s Interneta,
03:51
and easily change the word
to something else.
to something else.
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i jednostavno promijeniti riječ
u neku drugu.
u neku drugu.
03:53
For example, your name
or your sweetheart's name.
or your sweetheart's name.
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Na primjer, u svoje ime, ili
ime svoje voljene osobe.
ime svoje voljene osobe.
03:57
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
03:58
So the printer plates are small,
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Ploče printera su malene,
04:00
so I had to piece the garment
together, just like a puzzle.
together, just like a puzzle.
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tako da sam morala pospajati dijelove
odjeće skupa, poput puzle.
odjeće skupa, poput puzle.
04:05
And I wanted to solve another challenge.
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I htjela sam riješiti novi izazov.
04:08
I wanted to print textiles
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Htjela sam printati tkanine
04:09
that I would use
just like regular fabrics.
just like regular fabrics.
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koje bih koristila poput
obične tkanine.
obične tkanine.
04:12
That's when I found an open-source file
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Tada sam pronašla datoteku
otvorenog koda
otvorenog koda
04:14
from an architect who designed
a pattern that I love.
a pattern that I love.
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arhitekta koji je dizajnirao
uzorak koji obožavam.
uzorak koji obožavam.
04:16
And with it, I was able to print
a beautiful textile
a beautiful textile
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I s njome sam uspjela
isprintati prekrasnu tkaninu
isprintati prekrasnu tkaninu
04:19
that I would use
just like a regular fabric.
just like a regular fabric.
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koju bih koristila poput
obične tkanine.
obične tkanine.
04:22
And it actually even looks
a little bit like lace.
a little bit like lace.
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Zapravo i podsjeća
malo na čipku.
malo na čipku.
04:26
So I took his file and I modified it,
and changed it, played with it --
and changed it, played with it --
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Preuzela sam tu datoteku, modificirala ju,
mijenjala, igrala se s njom--
mijenjala, igrala se s njom--
04:30
many kinds of versions out of it.
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s mnogim inačicama iste.
04:33
And I needed to print
another 1,500 more hours
another 1,500 more hours
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I morala sam printati
dodatnih 1500 sati
dodatnih 1500 sati
04:37
to complete printing my collection.
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da bih dovršila printanje svoje kolekcije.
04:40
So I brought six printers to my home
and just printed 24-7.
and just printed 24-7.
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Tako da sam donijela šest printera doma
i printala cijeli dan, svaki dan.
i printala cijeli dan, svaki dan.
04:44
And this is actually
a really slow process,
a really slow process,
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To je zaista jako spor proces
04:47
but let's remember the Internet
was significantly slower 20 years ago,
was significantly slower 20 years ago,
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no sjetite se da je Internet
bio bitno sporiji prije 20 godina,
bio bitno sporiji prije 20 godina,
04:51
so 3D printing will also accelerate
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tako da će se i 3D printanje ubrzati
04:53
and in no time you'll be able to print
a T-Shirt in your home
a T-Shirt in your home
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i uskoro ćete biti u mogućnosti
isprintati T-shirt doma
isprintati T-shirt doma
04:56
in just a couple of hours,
or even minutes.
or even minutes.
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u samo nekoliko sati, ili minuta.
05:00
So you guys, you want to see
what it looks like?
what it looks like?
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Ok, želite li vidjeti kako
to izgleda na kraju?
to izgleda na kraju?
05:02
Audience: Yeah!
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Publika: Da!
05:03
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
05:07
Danit Peleg: Rebecca is wearing
one of my five outfits.
one of my five outfits.
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Rebecca nosi jedno
od mojih pet odijela.
od mojih pet odijela.
05:11
Almost everything here she's wearing,
I printed from my home.
I printed from my home.
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Gotovo sve što nosi, je
isprintano kod mene doma.
isprintano kod mene doma.
05:16
Even her shoes are printed.
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Čak i cipele su isprintane.
05:18
Audience: Wow!
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Publika: Vau!
05:20
Audience: Cool!
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Publika: Cool!
05:23
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
05:25
Danit Peleg: Thank you, Rebecca.
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Danit Peleg: Hvala, Rebecca.
05:27
(To audience) Thank you, guys.
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(Publici) Hvala vam.
05:30
So I think in the future,
materials will evolve,
materials will evolve,
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Razmislite, u budućnosti će
se materijali razvijati,
se materijali razvijati,
05:32
and they will look and feel
like fabrics we know today,
like fabrics we know today,
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te će izgledati i činiti se poput
tkanina koje poznajemo danas,
tkanina koje poznajemo danas,
05:36
like cotton or silk.
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poput pamuka ili svile.
05:38
Imagine personalized clothes
that fit exactly to your measurements.
that fit exactly to your measurements.
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Zamislite personaliziranu odjeću
koja točno paše prema vašim mjerama.
koja točno paše prema vašim mjerama.
05:45
Music was once a very physical thing.
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Glazba je nekoć bila prilično opipljiva.
05:47
You would have to go
to the record shop and buy CDs,
to the record shop and buy CDs,
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Morali ste otići u trgovinu
pločama i kupovati CDe,
pločama i kupovati CDe,
05:50
but now you can just download the music --
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no danas glazbu možete
jednostavno skinuti --
jednostavno skinuti --
05:52
digital music --
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digitalnu glazbu --
05:53
directly to your phone.
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direktno u mobitel.
05:56
Fashion is also a very physical thing.
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Moda je također jako opipljiva stvar.
05:58
And I wonder what our world will look like
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I zapitam se kako će
svijet u kojem živimo izgledati
svijet u kojem živimo izgledati
06:01
when our clothes will be digital,
just like this skirt is.
just like this skirt is.
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kada nam odjeća bude bila digitalna,
kao što je to ova suknja.
kao što je to ova suknja.
06:05
Thank you so much.
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Puno vam hvala.
06:06
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
06:08
[Thank You]
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[Hvala Vam]
06:09
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Danit Peleg - Fashion designerDanit Peleg created the first 3D-printed fashion collection printed entirely using home printers.
Why you should listen
Danit Peleg has always been interested in the influence of technology on fashion design. For her projects, she develops her own textiles and experiments with various technologies such as laser cutting, screen-printing and 3D printing.
Peleg believes that technology will help democratize fashion and give designers more independence in the creation process. She graduated from Shenkar in 2015 and now advises designers and fashion houses on new technologies.
Danit Peleg | Speaker | TED.com