TED2016
Angélica Dass: The beauty of human skin in every color
安潔莉卡．達斯: 各樣色彩的膚色之美
Filmed:
Readability: 3.9
2,472,894 views
安潔莉卡．達斯的攝影挑戰了人們對膚色及種族身分的固定思維。在這場切身的演說中，她陳述肖像專案「Humanæ」背後的靈感來源，以及她的這場追尋──去記錄人們的真實色彩，而非不正確的白、紅、黑、黃等刻版印象中各個種族單一的膚色。
Angélica Dass - Artist and photographer
By cataloging every conceivable human skin tone, Angélica Dass illustrates that skin color and race are more complex than they might appear at first glance. Full bio
By cataloging every conceivable human skin tone, Angélica Dass illustrates that skin color and race are more complex than they might appear at first glance. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
It has been 128 years
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128年前，
00:16
since the last country
in the world abolished slavery
in the world abolished slavery
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世上最後一個國家，廢除了奴隸制。
00:21
and 53 years
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53年前，
00:23
since Martin Luther King pronounced
his "I Have A Dream" speech.
his "I Have A Dream" speech.
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馬丁．路得．金恩發表了他的演說：
「我有一個夢想」。
「我有一個夢想」。
00:29
But we still live in a world
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但此時，我們生活的世界，
00:32
where the color of our skin
not only gives a first impression,
not only gives a first impression,
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膚色仍不只帶來第一印象，
00:37
but a lasting one that remains.
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更留下一個長遠的印記。
00:43
I was born in a family full of colors.
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我出生在一個充滿色彩的家庭，
00:47
My father is the son of a maid
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我父親是女佣的兒子，
00:50
from whom he inherited
an intense dark chocolate tone.
an intense dark chocolate tone.
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從她身上，他遺傳了
強烈的黑巧克力膚色。
強烈的黑巧克力膚色。
00:56
He was adopted by those
who I know as my grandparents.
who I know as my grandparents.
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後來我的祖父母收養了他。
01:01
The matriarch, my grandma,
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女當家，也就是我的祖母
01:03
has a porcelain skin and cotton-like hair.
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有著如瓷的皮膚，如棉絮的頭髮。
01:07
My grandpa was somewhere between
a vanilla and strawberry yogurt tone,
a vanilla and strawberry yogurt tone,
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我祖父的膚色則是介於
香草和草莓優格兩者之間，
香草和草莓優格兩者之間，
01:13
like my uncle and my cousin.
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如同我的叔叔和堂弟。
01:16
My mother is a cinnamon-skin
daughter of a native Brazilian,
daughter of a native Brazilian,
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我的母親有著肉桂色的皮膚，
而她的母親是土生土長的巴西人，
而她的母親是土生土長的巴西人，
01:23
with a pinch of hazel and honey,
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膚色帶點榛果和蜂蜜的色調，
01:26
and a man [who is]
a mix of coffee with milk,
a mix of coffee with milk,
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她的父親則是咖啡牛奶膚色，
01:29
but with a lot of coffee.
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只不過是咖啡較濃的那一種。
01:32
She has two sisters.
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我的母親有兩個姊妹，
01:34
One in a toasted-peanut skin
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一個是烤花生的膚色。
01:37
and the other,
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另一個
01:39
also adopted,
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也是收養的，
01:40
more on the beige side,
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比較偏米色一點，
01:42
like a pancake.
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像是鬆餅。
01:43
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
01:45
Growing up in this family,
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在這個家庭長大，
01:48
color was never important for me.
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膚色對我來說向來不重要。
01:51
Outside home, however,
things were different soon.
things were different soon.
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然而，一離開家，
事情很快就不同了。
事情很快就不同了。
01:57
Color had many other meanings.
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膚色有許多其他含義。
02:02
I remember my first
drawing lessons in school
drawing lessons in school
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我記得我的第一堂繪畫課
02:05
as a bunch of contradictory feelings.
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混雜著一堆矛盾的感覺。
02:08
It was exciting and creative
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課堂令人興奮，能發揮創意。
02:11
but I never understood
the unique flesh-colored pencil.
the unique flesh-colored pencil.
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但是我始終無法理解，
那唯一的肉色鉛筆。
那唯一的肉色鉛筆。
02:17
I was made of flesh but I wasn't pink.
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我也是血肉之軀，
但我不是粉紅色的。
但我不是粉紅色的。
02:20
My skin was brown,
and people said I was black.
and people said I was black.
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我的皮膚是棕色的，
但大家說我是黑人。
但大家說我是黑人。
02:24
I was seven years old
with a mess of colors in my head.
with a mess of colors in my head.
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我當時七歲，
色彩在我的腦海一片混亂。
色彩在我的腦海一片混亂。
02:29
Later,
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之後，
02:31
when I took my cousin to school,
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當我帶著堂弟去學校，
02:34
I was usually taken for the nanny.
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我常常被認為是小保姆。
02:37
By helping in the kitchen
at a friend's party,
at a friend's party,
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當我在朋友的聚會上進廚房幫忙，
02:41
people thought I was the maid.
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大家會以為我是女佣。
02:43
I was even treated like a prostitute
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甚至曾有人把我當成娼妓，
02:46
just because I was walking alone
on the beach with European friends.
on the beach with European friends.
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只因為我和歐洲裔的朋友
一起在沙灘上散步。
一起在沙灘上散步。
02:51
And many times,
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有許多次，
02:53
visiting my grandma or friends
in upper class buildings,
in upper class buildings,
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當我去上層階級的居所
拜訪我祖母或朋友，
拜訪我祖母或朋友，
02:57
I was invited not to use
the main elevator.
the main elevator.
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有人請我不要使用主電梯。
03:02
Because in the end,
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因為，最終，
03:05
with this color and this hair,
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帶著這樣的膚色和頭髮，
03:07
I cannot belong to some places.
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我不可以屬於某些地方。
03:12
In some way,
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某方面，
03:13
I get to used to it and accept part of it.
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我習慣，也接受了這事實的一部分。
03:17
However, something inside of me
keeps revolving and struggling.
keeps revolving and struggling.
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但我內心深處仍在纏繞掙扎。
03:23
Years later I married a Spaniard.
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幾年後，我和一個西班牙人結婚，
03:27
But not any Spaniard.
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可不是隨便一個西班牙人，
03:29
I chose one with the skin color
of a lobster when sunburnt.
of a lobster when sunburnt.
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我選擇的他，膚色像是被曬傷的龍蝦。
03:33
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
03:35
Since then, a new question
started to chase me.
started to chase me.
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自此，新的問題來了，
03:39
What will be the color of your children?
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你們的小孩會是什麼顏色呢？
03:43
As you can understand,
this is my last concern.
this is my last concern.
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你們大概也能體會，
這是我最不煩惱的事。
這是我最不煩惱的事。
03:46
But thinking about it,
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但思慮及此，
03:49
with my previous background,
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以我之前的背景，
03:50
my story led me to make
my personal exercise as a photographer.
my personal exercise as a photographer.
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我的故事引導我成為攝影師，
03:57
And that is how Humanae was born.
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於是就有了 Humanae。
04:00
Humanae is a pursuit
to highlight our true colors,
to highlight our true colors,
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Humanae 旨在追求
突顯我們的真實色彩，
突顯我們的真實色彩，
04:05
rather than the untrue
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而非不精確的
04:07
white, red, black or yellow
associated with race.
associated with race.
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白色、紅色、黑色、黃色等
各種族的標記顏色。
各種族的標記顏色。
04:12
It's a kind of game to question our codes.
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這像是一個質疑我們社會常規的遊戲。
04:17
It's a work in progress
from a personal story to a global history.
from a personal story to a global history.
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它從個人故事展開，
推向全球的歷史。
推向全球的歷史。
04:22
I portray the subjects
in a white background.
in a white background.
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我在白色背景上拍攝人物，
04:27
Then I choose an 11-pixel
square from the nose,
square from the nose,
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然後在鼻子上選擇一個11像素的方塊
04:32
paint the background,
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用來塗滿背景。
04:35
and look for the corresponding color
in the industrial palette, Pantone.
in the industrial palette, Pantone.
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之後在 Pantone 色票上
尋找相應的顏色。
尋找相應的顏色。
04:40
I started with my family and friends,
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從我的家人和朋友開始，
04:43
then more and more people
joined the adventure,
joined the adventure,
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透過社群網路的公開召喚，
04:47
thanks to public calls
coming through the social media.
coming through the social media.
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越來越多的人加入這場探險。
04:52
I thought that the main space
to show my work was the Internet
to show my work was the Internet
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我認為網際網路是
展現我作品的主要場所，
展現我作品的主要場所，
04:57
because I want an open concept
that invites everybody
that invites everybody
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因為我想用一個公開的概念
去邀請每個人
去邀請每個人
05:01
to push the share button
in both the computer and their brain.
in both the computer and their brain.
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在電腦上及他們的腦海中
按下「分享」鍵。
按下「分享」鍵。
05:08
The snowball started to roll.
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這個雪球開始滾動。
05:11
The project had a great welcome --
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專案得到了極大的歡迎：
05:15
invitations, exhibitions,
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邀請、展覽、
05:19
physical formats,
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實體形式、
05:21
galleries and museums ...
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美術館和博物館等等，
05:23
just happened.
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就這樣發生了。
05:25
And among them, my favorite:
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在這之中，我最喜愛的是：
05:29
when Humanae occupies public spaces
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當 Humanae 佔據了公共空間，
05:33
and appears in the street,
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出現在大街上，
05:36
it fosters a popular debate
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它滋養了普及的討論，
05:39
and creates a feeling of community.
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而且創造了社群的感覺。
05:46
I have portrayed more than 3,000 people
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我拍攝了超過3000人，
05:50
in 13 different countries,
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遍及13個國家，
05:53
19 different cities around the world.
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全球共19個不同的城市。
05:56
Just to mention some of them --
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攝影對象中，
05:59
from someone included in the Forbes list,
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有人名列富比士排行榜，
06:01
to refugees who crossed
the Mediterranean by boat.
the Mediterranean by boat.
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也有乘船穿越地中海的難民。
06:05
In Paris, from the UNESCO
Headquarters to a shelter.
Headquarters to a shelter.
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可能來自巴黎的聯合國
教科文組織總部或者難民營，
教科文組織總部或者難民營，
06:09
And students both in Switzerland
and favelas in Rio de Janeiro.
and favelas in Rio de Janeiro.
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也有來自瑞士的學生，
或是來自里約熱內盧的貧民區。
或是來自里約熱內盧的貧民區。
06:15
All kinds of beliefs,
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各種信仰、
06:17
gender identities
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性別身分、
06:18
or physical impairments,
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或是身障人士，
06:21
a newborn or terminally ill.
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新生兒或身患絕症的人。
06:24
We all together build Humanae.
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我們共同打造了Humanae。
06:29
Those portraits make us rethink
how we see each other.
how we see each other.
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這些照片讓我們重新思考
我們看待彼此的方式。
我們看待彼此的方式。
06:34
When modern science
is questioning the race concept,
is questioning the race concept,
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當現代科學質疑著種族觀念，
06:38
what does it mean for us
to be black, white, yellow, red?
to be black, white, yellow, red?
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對我們來說，
黑白黃紅究竟代表什麼？
黑白黃紅究竟代表什麼？
06:44
Is it the eye, the nose,
the mouth, the hair?
the mouth, the hair?
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是眼睛、鼻子、嘴巴、頭髮嗎？
06:49
Or does it have to do with our origin,
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或者是必須相關於出身、
06:53
nationality
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國籍、
06:54
or bank account?
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甚至是銀行帳戶？
06:58
This personal exercise
turned out to be a discovery.
turned out to be a discovery.
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這個個人專案成為一場發現之旅。
07:03
Suddenly I realized that Humanae
was useful for many people.
was useful for many people.
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突然，我意識到
Humanae 幫助了許多人。
Humanae 幫助了許多人。
07:09
It represents a sort of mirror
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它代表一種鏡子，
07:12
for those who cannot find
themselves reflected in any label.
themselves reflected in any label.
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反射那些無法從刻板印象的
標籤中找到自我的人。
標籤中找到自我的人。
07:17
It was amazing
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神奇的是，
07:18
that people started to share
their thoughts about the work with me.
their thoughts about the work with me.
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人們開始和我分享
他們對這個專案的想法。
他們對這個專案的想法。
07:23
I have hundreds of that,
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我收到數以百計的來信，
07:25
I will share with you, too.
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我也將與你們分享。
07:27
A mother of 11 years --
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一個母親…
07:30
A mother of an 11-year-old girl wrote me,
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一個11歲的女孩的母親寫信給我：
07:35
"Very good for me as a tool
to work on her confidence,
to work on her confidence,
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「對我來說，這是提升
孩子自信心的良好工具。
孩子自信心的良好工具。
07:38
as this past weekend
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上個禮拜，
07:40
one of her girlfriends argued with her
that she does not belong
that she does not belong
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她的一個女性朋友與她爭執，
說她不屬於，
也不應被允許在挪威生活。
也不應被允許在挪威生活。
07:45
and should not be allowed
to live in Norway.
to live in Norway.
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07:50
So your work has
a very special place in my heart
a very special place in my heart
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因此你的作品在我心裡有特別的地位。
07:53
and it's very important for me."
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對我來說非常重要。」
07:58
A woman shared her portrait
on Facebook and wrote,
on Facebook and wrote,
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一位女士在臉書上
分享她的照片，她寫道：
分享她的照片，她寫道：
08:03
"All my life,
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「我一生，
08:04
people from across the globe
had difficulties to place me in a group,
had difficulties to place me in a group,
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來自世界的人，
很難把我歸類於某個族群、
很難把我歸類於某個族群、
08:10
a stereotype,
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某個刻版印象，
08:11
a box.
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或是某個盒子裡。
08:12
Perhaps we should stop.
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也許他們不該試圖將我歸類，
08:15
Instead of framing, ask the individual,
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與其把人放入框架分類，
不如問每個人：
不如問每個人：
08:18
'How would you label yourself?'
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『你如何定義自己？』
08:20
Then I would say,
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那麼，我會說：
08:22
'Hi. I'm Massiel.
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『嗨，我是瑪希爾。
08:24
I'm a Dominican-Dutch,
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我是多明尼加裔荷蘭人，
08:25
I grew up in a mixed family
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我在多元家庭中長大，
08:27
and I'm a bisexual woman.' "
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而且我是個雙性戀的女性。』
08:31
Besides these unexpected
and touching reactions,
and touching reactions,
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除了這些意外而感人的反應，
08:36
Humanae finds a new life
in a different variety of fields.
in a different variety of fields.
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Humanae也在各個不同領域
有了新生。
有了新生。
08:40
Just to show you some examples,
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讓我舉其中的幾個例子。
08:43
illustrators and art students
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插畫家和藝術系學生
08:45
using it as a reference
for their sketches and their studies.
for their sketches and their studies.
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參考它來做草圖和研究。
08:50
It's a collection of faces.
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這是個人臉面孔的集合。
08:52
Researchers in the fields of anthropology,
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各領域研究人員，
包括人類學、物理學以及神經科學，
08:56
physics and neuroscience
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08:59
use Humanae with different
scientific approaches
scientific approaches
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利用Humanae進行科學研究：
09:03
related to human ethnicity,
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其中有人類種族、
09:05
optophysiology,
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光生理學、
09:07
face recognition
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面部識別，
09:09
or Alzheimer's.
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或是阿茲海默症的研究。
09:12
One of the most important
impacts of the project
impacts of the project
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當中最重要的影響是，
09:15
is that Humanae was chosen
to be the cover of Foreign Affairs,
to be the cover of Foreign Affairs,
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Humanae被選為
「外交事務雜誌」的封面
「外交事務雜誌」的封面
09:20
one of the most relevant
political publications.
political publications.
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這是最切題相關的
一個政治出版物。
一個政治出版物。
09:24
And talking about foreign affairs,
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當我們說到外交，
09:28
I found the perfect
ambassadors for my project ...
ambassadors for my project ...
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我找到了這個專案的最佳大使…
09:32
teachers.
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教師們。
09:33
They are the ones that use Humanae
as a tool for educational purposes.
as a tool for educational purposes.
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有些老師把Humanae當做教材。
09:40
Their passion encourages me
to go back to drawing classes,
to go back to drawing classes,
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他們的熱情鼓勵了我
回到繪畫課上，
回到繪畫課上，
09:46
but this time as a teacher myself.
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但這次是以教師的角色。
09:50
My students,
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我的學生們，
09:51
both adults and kids,
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包括成人與兒童，
09:53
paint their self-portraits,
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畫出他們的自畫像，
09:56
trying to discover
their own unique color.
their own unique color.
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試著發現屬於他們的獨一無二色彩。
10:08
As a photographer,
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身為攝影師，
10:10
I realize that I can be a channel
for others to communicate.
for others to communicate.
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我瞭解到自己可以是
人們溝通的管道。
人們溝通的管道。
10:17
As an individual,
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做為我自己，
10:18
as Angélica,
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做為安潔莉卡，
10:21
every time I take a picture,
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每當我拍一張照片，
10:24
I feel that I am sitting
in front of a therapist.
in front of a therapist.
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我感覺自己正坐在
心理治療師前面。
心理治療師前面。
10:29
All the frustration, fear and loneliness
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所有的挫折、恐懼，和孤獨，
10:34
that I once felt ...
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那些我曾經感受的情緒，
10:36
becomes love.
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都成了愛。
10:41
The last country --
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最後一個國家…
10:44
the last country in the world
who abolished slavery
who abolished slavery
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世界上最後一個
廢除了奴隸制的國家。
廢除了奴隸制的國家。
10:49
is the country where I was born,
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就是我的出生地：
10:51
Brazil.
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巴西。
10:54
We still have to work hard
to abolish discrimination.
to abolish discrimination.
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為了消弭歧視，我們尚待努力。
11:00
That remains a common practice worldwide,
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歧視在世界各處仍然普遍存在，
11:04
and that will not disappear by itself.
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而且不會自行消失。
11:08
Thank you.
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謝謝你們。
11:09
(Applause)
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(鼓掌)
11:23
Thank you.
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謝謝。
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Angélica Dass - Artist and photographerBy cataloging every conceivable human skin tone, Angélica Dass illustrates that skin color and race are more complex than they might appear at first glance.
Why you should listen
As a member of a multiracial family, Brazilian artist Angélica Dass is acutely aware of how small differences in skin tone can swell into large misconceptions and stereotypes about race.
In her ongoing project Humanæ, Dass pairs thousands of portraits of people from diverse parts of the world with their Pantone codes, revealing that our racially charged skin color labels -- red, white, brown -- as not only inaccurate but also absurd. Instead, she shows us that "these colors make us see each other as different, even though we are equal."
Angélica Dass | Speaker | TED.com