Taste3 2008
Dan Barber: A foie gras parable
Kisah foie gras yang mengejutkan dari Dan Barber
Filmed:
Readability: 3.7
1,525,293 views
Pada konferensi Taste3, koki Dan Barber mengisahkan cerita pertanian kecil di Spanyol yang menemukan cara manusiawi untuk menghasilkan foie gras. Dengan memelihara angsa-angsanya di lingkungan alami, petani Eduardo Sousa menghidupi cara produksi pangan yang dipercaya oleh Barber.
Dan Barber - Chef
Dan Barber is a chef and a scholar -- relentlessly pursuing the stories and reasons behind the foods we grow and eat. Full bio
Dan Barber is a chef and a scholar -- relentlessly pursuing the stories and reasons behind the foods we grow and eat. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:16
I went to Spain a few months ago
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Saya pergi ke Spanyol beberapa bulan lalu
00:20
and I had the best foie gras of my life.
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dan menikmati foie gras terbaik dalam hidup saya.
00:26
The best culinary experience of my life.
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Pengalaman kuliner terbaik dalam hidup saya.
00:30
Because what I saw, I'm convinced, is the future of cooking.
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Karena apa yang saya lihat, saya yakin, adalah masa depan dari masakan.
00:37
Ridiculous, right?
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Konyol bukan?
00:38
Foie gras and the future of cooking.
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Foie gras dan masa depan dari masakan.
00:40
There's not a food today that's more maligned than foie gras, right?
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Tak ada makanan sekarang ini yang lebih jahat dari foie gras, benar?
00:43
I mean, it's crucified.
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Maksud saya, itu dilarang.
00:45
It was outlawed in Chicago for a while.
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Itu dilarang di Chicago selama beberapa waktu.
00:47
It's pending here in California, and just recently in New York.
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Statusnya masih menunggu di California sini, dan baru saja di New York.
00:52
It's like if you're a chef and you put it on your menu,
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Rasanya seperti bila anda seorang koki dan menyediakannya di daftar menu,
00:55
you risk being attacked.
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anda bisa diserang.
00:57
Really, it happened here in San Francisco to a famous chef.
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Sungguh, itu terjadi di San Fransisko di sini pada seorang koki terkenal.
01:01
I'm not saying that there's not a rationale
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Saya tidak berkata bahwa tak ada alasan
01:07
for being opposed to foie gras.
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untuk menentang foie gras.
01:09
The reasons usually just boil down to the gavage, which is the force feeding.
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Umumnya alasannya berakhir pada 'gavage', yaitu pencekokan.
01:13
Basically you take a goose or a duck
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Pada dasarnya anda ambil seekor angsa atau bebek
01:15
and you force feed a ton of grain down its throat.
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dan anda cekoki banyak sekali biji-bijian dalam kerongkongannya.
01:20
More grain in a couple of weeks than it would ever get in a lifetime.
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Selama beberapa minggu dia dicekoki biji-bijian lebih banyak dari yang dimakannya seumur hidup.
01:24
Its liver expands by eight times.
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Hatinya membengkak sampai delapan kali lebih besar.
01:27
Suffice to say it's like -- it's not the prettiest picture of sustainable farming.
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Cukup untuk bilang -- itu bukanlah gambaran terbaik dari pertanian yang lestari.
01:32
The problem for us chefs is that it's so freakin' delicious.
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Masalahnya bagi kami para koki, adalah bahwa foie gras sangat lezat sekali.
01:38
(Laughter)
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(Tawa)
01:41
I mean, I love the stuff.
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Maksud saya, saya suka barang itu.
01:44
It is fatty, it's sweet, it's silky, it's unctuous.
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Berlemak, manis, lembut, dan penuh.
01:49
It makes everything else you put it with taste incredible.
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Membuat semua yang anda tambahkan menjadi luar biasa rasanya.
01:54
Can we produce a menu that's delicious without foie gras?
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Apa kita dapat membuat menu yang lezat tanpa foie gras?
02:00
Yes, sure.
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Ya, tentu saja.
02:02
You can also bike the Tour de France without steroids, right?
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Anda juga bisa bersepeda di Tour de France tanpa steroid bukan?
02:05
(Laughter)
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(Tawa)
02:08
Not a lot of people are doing it.
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Tidak banyak orang melakukannya.
02:10
And for good reason.
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Untuk alasan yang baik.
02:12
(Laughter)
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(Tawa)
02:13
So several months ago, a friend of mine sent me this link to this guy,
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Jadi beberapa bulan lalu, seorang teman memberi tahu tentang orang ini,
02:18
Eduardo Sousa.
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Eduardo Sousa.
02:21
Eduardo is doing what he calls natural foie gras.
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Eduardo memproduksi apa yang dia sebut foie gras alami.
02:25
Natural foie gras.
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Foie gras alami.
02:27
What's natural about foie gras?
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Apa yang alami dari foie gras?
02:30
To take advantage of when the temperature drops in the fall,
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Untuk bertahan ketika suhu turun di musim gugur,
02:34
geese and ducks gorge on food
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angsa dan bebek makan banyak
02:39
to prepare for the harsh realities of winter.
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bersiap untuk menghadapi musim dingin yang keras.
02:44
And the rest of the year they're free to roam around Eduardo's land
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Di waktu lain sepanjang tahun mereka bebas berkeliaran di tanah Eduardo
02:49
and eat what they want.
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dan makan apa yang mereka mau.
02:51
So no gavage, no force feeding,
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Jadi tak ada 'gavage', tak ada pencekokan,
02:52
no factory-like conditions, no cruelty.
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tak ada kondisi seperti pabrik, tak ada kekejaman.
02:56
And it's shockingly not a new idea.
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Mengejutkan bahwa itu bukanlah ide baru.
02:58
His great-granddad started -- Patería de Sousa -- in 1812.
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Kakek buyutnya memulai -- Pateria de Sousa -- di 1812.
03:04
And they've been doing it quietly ever since.
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Dan mereka melakukannya dengan tenang sejak saat itu.
03:10
That is until last year,
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Sampai tahun lalu,
03:13
when Eduardo won the Coup de Coeur,
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ketika Eduardo memenangi Coup de Coeur,
03:18
the coveted French gastronomic prize.
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hadiah gastronomik Perancis yang diidam-idamkan.
03:22
It's like the Olympics of food products.
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Itu seperti Olimpiade produk-produk makanan.
03:25
He placed first for his foie gras.
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Dia dapat juara pertama untuk foie gras-nya.
03:29
Big, big problem.
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Masalah besar, sungguh besar.
03:31
As he said to me, that really pissed the French off.
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Seperti yang dikatakannya pada saya, itu benar-benar membuat orang Perancis kesal.
03:34
(Laughter)
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(Tawa)
03:38
He said it sort of gleefully.
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Dia mengatakannya dengan tampak senang.
03:40
It was all over the papers.
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Beritanya ada di semua surat kabar.
03:42
I read about it. It was in Le Monde.
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Saya membacanya, sempat masuk Le Monde.
03:44
"Spanish chef accused ... " -- and the French accused him.
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"Koki Spanyol dituduh..." -- dan orang Perancis menuduhnya.
03:48
"Spanish chef accused of cheating."
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"Koki Spanyol dituduh berbuat curang."
03:50
They accused him of paying off the judges.
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Mereka menuduhnya membayar juri.
03:52
They implicated actually, the Spanish government, amazingly.
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Bahkan mereka melibatkan pemerintah Spanyol, mengagumkan.
03:56
Huh, amazing.
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Huh, mengagumkan.
03:58
A huge scandal for a few weeks.
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Sebuah skandal besar selama beberapa minggu.
03:59
Couldn't find a shred of evidence.
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Tak dapat menemukan bukti apapun.
04:02
Now, look at the guy.
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Sekarang, lihat orangnya.
04:03
He doesn't look like a guy who's paying off French judges
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Dia tidak terlihat seperti orang yang membayar juri Perancis
04:05
for his foie gras.
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untuk foie gras-nya.
04:07
So that died down, and very soon afterward,
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Jadi masalah itu berhenti, dan tak lama kemudian,
04:10
new controversy.
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kontroversi baru.
04:12
He shouldn't win because it's not foie gras.
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Dia harusnya tidak menang karena itu bukan foie gras.
04:17
It's not foie gras because it's not gavage.
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Itu bukan foie gras karena bukan 'gavage'.
04:19
There's no force feeding.
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Tak ada pencekokan.
04:21
So by definition, he's lying and should be disqualified.
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Jadi secara definisi, dia berbohong dan harus didiskualifikasi.
04:26
As funny as it sounds, articulating it now and reading about it --
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Selucu kedengarannya, membicarakan dan membaca tentang itu sekarang --
04:29
actually, if we had talked about it before this controversy,
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sebenarnya, bila kita sudah membicarakannya sebelum kontroversi ini,
04:32
I would have said, "That's kind of true."
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saya akan berkata, "Itu benar."
04:34
You know, foie gras by definition, force feeding, it's gavage,
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Anda tahu, secara definisi foie gras, pencekokan, itu 'gavage',
04:36
and that's what you get when you want foie gras.
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dan itu yang anda lakukan ketika anda mau foie gras.
04:42
That is, until I went to Eduardo's farm in Extremadura,
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Begitulah, sampai saya pergi ke peternakan Eduardo di Extremadura,
04:47
50 miles north of Seville, right on the Portugal border.
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50 mil di utara Seville, persis di perbatasan Portugal.
04:51
I saw first-hand a system that is incredibly complex
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Saya melihat sendiri sebuah sistem yang luar biasa kompleks
04:55
and then at the same time, like everything beautiful in nature,
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dan di saat yang sama, seperti semua hal indah di alam,
05:00
is utterly simple.
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adalah sungguh-sungguh sederhana.
05:04
And he said to me, really from the first moment,
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Dia berkata pada saya, sejak saat pertama,
05:06
my life's work is to give the geese what they want.
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karya hidup saya untuk memberikan apa yang diinginkan angsa-angsa itu.
05:11
He repeated that about 50 times in the two days I was with him.
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Dia mengulanginya sekitar 50 kali dalam dua hari saya bersamanya.
05:14
I'm just here to give the geese what they want.
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Saya di sini hanya untuk memberikan apa yang diinginkan angsa-angsa itu.
05:18
Actually, when I showed up he was lying down with the geese with his cell phone
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Sebenarnya, ketika saya muncul dia sedang berbaring dengan angsa-angsa dengan ponselnya
05:21
taking pictures of them
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mengambil gambar mereka
05:22
like his children in the grass.
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seperti anak-anaknya, di rerumputan.
05:24
Amazing.
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Mengagumkan.
05:26
He's really just in love with -- he's at one with --
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Dia sungguh jatuh cinta dengan -- dia menyatu dengan --
05:28
he's the goose whisperer.
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dialah sang pembisik angsa.
05:30
(Laughter)
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(Tawa)
05:36
And when I was speaking to him, you know, I thought,
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Dan ketika saya berbicara dengannya, saya berpikir,
05:41
like I'm speaking to you now, right,
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seperti saya berbicara dengan anda sekarang bukan,
05:43
but sort of in the middle of my questions, my excited questions,
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tapi di tengah pertanyaan saya, pertanyaan saya yang bersemangat,
05:48
because the more I got to know him and his system,
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karena semakin saya mengenalnya dan sistemnya,
05:49
the more exciting this whole idea became.
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semakin menarik jadinya seluruh ide ini.
05:53
He kept going like this to me.
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Dia terus melakukan ini pada saya.
05:57
And I thought, OK, excited Jew from New York, right?
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Dan saya berpikir, oke, seorang Yahudi yang bersemangat dari New York bukan?
06:01
I'm talking a little too aggressively, whatever,
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Saya berbicara terlalu agresif, apapunlah,
06:05
so you know, I slowed down.
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jadi anda tahu, saya melambat.
06:07
And finally, by the end of the day I was like,
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Dan akhirnya, pada akhir hari itu saya seperti,
06:08
Ed-uar-do, you know like this?
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Eduardo, seperti ini?
06:11
But he was still going like this.
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Tapi dia tetap seperti itu.
06:14
I figured it out.
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Saya akhirnya mengerti apa maksudnya.
06:16
I was speaking too loudly.
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Saya berbicara terlalu keras.
06:19
So I hushed my voice.
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Jadi saya mengecilkan suara saya.
06:21
I kind of like asked these questions and chatted with him through a translator
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Saya seperti bertanya dan berbicara dengannya melalui penerjemah
06:25
in kind of a half whisper.
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dengan setengah berbisik.
06:27
And he stopped doing this.
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Dan dia berhenti melakukannya.
06:29
And amazingly, the geese who were on the other side of the paddock when I was around --
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Dan secara mengagumkan, angsa-angsa yang ada di ujung pekarangan ketika saya di sana --
06:34
"Get the hell away from this kid!" --
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"Pergi jauh-jauh dari bocah ini!"
06:36
when I lowered my voice, they all came right up to us.
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Ketika saya mengurangi suara saya, mereka mendatangi kami.
06:39
Right up to us, like right up to here.
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Dekat sekali dengan kami, dekat seperti ini.
06:40
Right along the fence line.
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Tepat di pinggir garis pagar.
06:41
And fence line was amazing in itself.
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Pagarnya sendiri mengagumkan.
06:44
The fence -- like this conception of fence that we have
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Pagarnya -- konsep yang kita punya tentang pagar
06:47
it's totally backward with him.
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adalah berkebalikan dengannya.
06:49
The electricity on this fiberglass fence
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Listrik di pagar seratkaca ini
06:51
is only on the outside.
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hanya ada di bagian luarnya.
06:54
He rewired it. He invented it.
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Dia mengatur kembali kabelnya. Dia menemukannya.
06:57
I've never seen it. Have you?
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Saya belum pernah melihatnya. Anda pernah?
07:00
You fence in animals. You electrify the inside.
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Anda memagari hewan. Anda memberi listrik di dalamnya.
07:03
He doesn't.
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Dia tidak.
07:04
He electrifies only the outside.
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Dia memberi listrik hanya di luarnya.
07:07
Why?
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Mengapa?
07:08
Because he said to me that he felt like the geese --
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Karena dia bilang pada saya dia merasa seperti angsa-angsa itu --
07:10
and he proved this actually, not just a conceit, he proved this --
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dan dia membuktikannya, tidak hanya tebakan, dia membuktikan ini --
07:15
the geese felt manipulated when they were imprisoned in their little paddocks.
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angsa-angsa itu merasa diperdaya ketika mereka dipenjara dalam pekarangan mereka.
07:21
Even though they were imprisoned in this Garden of Eden
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Meskipun mereka dipenjara di Taman Eden
07:23
with figs and everything else.
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dengan ara dan semua lainnya.
07:24
He felt like they felt manipulated.
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Dia merasa bahwa bebek-bebek itu merasa diperdaya.
07:26
So he got rid of the electricity,
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Jadi dia menghilangkan listriknya,
07:28
he got rid of current on the inside
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dia menghilangkan arus di bagian dalam
07:31
and kept it on the outside,
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dan tinggal yang luar,
07:32
so it would protect them against coyotes and other predators.
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jadi pagar itu melindungi mereka dari coyote dan predator lain.
07:35
Now, what happened?
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Sekarang, apa yang terjadi?
07:37
They ate, and he showed me on a chart,
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Mereka makan, dan dia menunjukkan pada saya sebuah gambar,
07:39
how they ate about 20 percent more feed to feed their livers.
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bagaimana mereka makan 20 persen lebih untuk membesarkan hati mereka.
07:44
The landscape is incredible.
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Pemandangannya sungguh luar biasa.
07:46
I mean, his farm is incredible.
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Maksud saya, peternakannya luar biasa.
07:48
It really is the Garden of Eden.
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Itu adalah Taman Eden yang sesungguhnya.
07:50
There's figs and everything else there for the taking.
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Ada ara dan semua lainnya untuk diambil.
07:52
And the irony of ironies is because Extremadura, the area --
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Ironi terbesar adalah daerah itu, Extremadura --
07:54
what does Extremadura mean?
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apa arti Extremadura?
07:55
Extra hard land, right?
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Extramadura berarti tanah yang ekstra keras kan?
07:58
Extra difficult. Extra hard.
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Ekstra sulit. Ekstra keras.
08:00
But over four generations, he and his family
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Tapi selama lebih dari empat generasi, dia dan keluarganya
08:02
have literally transformed this extra hard land into a tasting menu.
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telah mengubah tanah ekstra keras ini menjadi menu lezat.
08:07
Upgrades the life for these geese.
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Meningkatkan kehidupan angsa-angsa ini.
08:13
And they are allowed to take whatever they want.
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Dan mereka dibolehkan mengambil apa yang mereka mau.
08:15
Another irony, the double irony
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Ironi lain, ironi ganda
08:16
is that on the figs and the olives,
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adalah bahwa dari ara dan zaitun,
08:17
Eduardo can make more money selling those
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Eduardo dapat menghasilkan lebih banyak uang dengan menjualnya
08:20
than he can on the foie gras.
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daripada dari foie gras.
08:22
He doesn't care.
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Dia tidak peduli.
08:23
He lets them take what they want and he says,
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Dia membiarkan mereka mengambil yang mereka mau dan dia berkata,
08:25
"Usually, it's about 50 percent. They're very fair."
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"Biasanya, sekitar 50 persen. Mereka sangat adil."
08:28
The other 50 percent, he takes and he sells and he makes money on them.
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50 persen lainnya, dia panen, jual, dan mendapat uang dari itu.
08:31
Part of the income for his farm.
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Sebagian pemasukan untuk peternakannya.
08:33
A big part of his income for his farm.
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Bagian yang besar dari pemasukan peternakannya.
08:35
But he never controls it.
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Tapi dia tak pernah mengendalikan itu.
08:37
They get what they want,
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Mereka dapat yang mereka mau,
08:38
they leave the rest for me and I sell it.
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mereka menyisakan untuk saya dan saya menjualnya.
08:41
His biggest obstacle, really, was the marketplace,
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Rintangan terbesarnya, sungguh, adalah pasar,
08:45
which demands these days bright yellow foie gras.
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yang sekarang menginginkan foie gras kuning terang.
08:50
That's how I've been trained.
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Saya dilatih seperti itu.
08:51
You want to look and see what good foie gras is,
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Anda mau lihat foie gras yang bagus,
08:53
it's got to be bright yellow.
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warnanya harus kuning terang.
08:55
It's the indication that it's the best foie gras.
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Itulah tanda bahwa itu adalah foie gras terbaik.
08:59
Well, because he doesn't force feed,
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Baiklah, karena dia tidak mencekoki,
09:01
because he doesn't gavage tons of corn,
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karena tidak mencekoki dengan jagung yang banyak,
09:05
his livers were pretty grey.
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hati angsanya berwarna kelabu.
09:07
Or they were.
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Setidaknya dulu begitu.
09:09
But he found this wild plant called the Lupin bush.
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Tapi dia menemukan tanaman liar ini, yang disebut semak Lupin.
09:15
The Lupin bush, it's all around Extremadura.
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Semak Lupin ada di seluruh bagian Extremadura.
09:17
He let it go to seed, he took the seeds,
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Dia membiarkannya berbiji lalu dia ambil bijinya,
09:19
he planted it on his 30 acres, all around.
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dia tanam di seluruh bagian 12 hektar tanahnya.
09:22
And the geese love the Lupin bush.
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Dan angsa-angsa itu suka semak Lupin.
09:24
Not for the bush, but for the seeds.
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Bukan semaknya, tapi bijinya.
09:26
And when they eat the seeds, their foie gras turns yellow.
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Dan ketika mereka makan biji itu, foie gras-nya menjadi kuning.
09:30
Radioactive yellow.
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Kuning radioaktif.
09:32
Bright yellow.
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Kuning terang.
09:35
Of the highest quality foie gras yellow I've ever seen.
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Mutu warna kuning foie gras terbaik yang pernah kutemui.
09:38
(Laughter)
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(Tawa)
09:41
So I'm listening to all this, you know, and I'm like,
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Saya mendengarkan semua ini, anda tahu, dan saya seperti,
09:44
is this guy for real? Is he making some of this up?
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Apa orang ini serius? Apa dia membuat-buat cerita ini?
09:47
Is he like, you know -- because he seemed to have an answer for everything,
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Dia seperti, anda tahu -- karena dia terlihat tahu jawaban dari segala hal,
09:50
and it was always nature.
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dan itu selalu adalah alam.
09:52
It was never him.
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Tidak pernah dirinya.
09:54
And I was like, you know, I always get a little, like,
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Dan saya merasa, anda tahu, saya merasa sedikit,
09:58
weirded out by people who deflect everything away from themselves.
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aneh dengan orang yang memantulkan semua dari mereka sendiri.
10:01
Because, really, they want you to look at themselves, right?
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Karena, sungguh, mereka ingin anda melihat pada mereka, benar?
10:03
But he deflected everything away from his ingenuity
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Tapi dia memantulkan semua dari dirinya
10:05
into working with his landscape.
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dalam mengerjakan tanah itu.
10:08
So it's like, here I am, I'm on the fence about this guy,
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Jadi saya di sini sedikit bertentangan dengan orang ini,
10:11
but increasingly, eating up his every word.
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tapi semakin mempercayai tiap kata-katanya.
10:14
And we're sitting there, and I hear [clapping] from a distance, so I look over.
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Kami duduk di sini, dan saya dengar [tepuk tangan] dari jauh, lalu saya menengok.
10:20
And he grabs my arm and the translator's,
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Dia menarik tangan saya dan penerjemah,
10:23
and ducks us under a bush and says, "Watch this."
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lalu merunduk di bawah semak dan berkata, "Lihat ini."
10:25
"Shush," he says again for the 500th time to me.
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"Shush," dia berkata lagi kelima ratus kalinya.
10:27
"Shush, watch this."
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"Shush, lihat ini."
10:30
And this squadron of geese come over.
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Dan sekumpulan angsa datang.
10:32
[Clapping]
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[Tepuk tangan]
10:33
And they're getting louder, louder, louder, like really loud, right over us.
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Dan mereka makin keras, keras, keras, sangat keras, tepat di atas kami.
10:38
And like airport traffic control, as they start to go past us
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Seperti pengendali lalu lintas bandara, ketika mereka melewati kami
10:44
they're called back -- and they're called back and back and back.
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mereka memanggil lagi -- dan mereka memanggil lagi lagi dan lagi.
10:48
And then they circle around.
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Lalu mereka berputar.
10:49
And his geese are calling up now to the wild geese.
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Angsa-angsanya memanggil angsa-angsa liar itu.
10:52
[Clapping]
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[Tepuk tangan]
10:53
And the wild geese are calling down.
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Angsa-angsa liar itu bertambah tenang.
10:54
[Clapping]
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[Tepuk tangan]
10:55
And it's getting louder and louder and they circle and circle
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Suaranya makin keras dan keras, dan mereka melingkar-lingkar
10:57
and they land.
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dan mereka mendarat.
10:58
And I'm just saying, "No way."
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Saya berkata, "Tidak mungkin."
11:00
(Laughter)
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(Tawa)
11:03
No way.
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Tidak mungkin.
11:05
And I look at Eduardo, who's near tears looking at this,
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Saya melihat Eduardo, yang hampir menangis melihat ini,
11:10
and I say, "You're telling me that your geese are calling to the wild geese
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dan saya berkata, "Anda bilang angsa-angsa anda memanggil angsa liar
11:14
to say come for a visit?"
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untuk minta mereka berkunjung?"
11:16
And he says, "No, no, no.
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Dan dia berkata, "Tidak, tidak tidak.
11:18
They've come to stay."
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Mereka datang untuk tinggal."
11:21
They've come to stay?
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Mereka datang untuk tinggal?
11:23
(Laughter)
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(Tawa)
11:25
It's like the DNA of a goose is to fly south in the winter, right?
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Sudah DNA angsa terbang ke selatan pada musim dingin, benar?
11:31
I said that. I said "Isn't that what they're put on this Earth for?
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Saya berkata demikian. Saya bilang "Bukankah mereka ada di bumi untuk itu?
11:34
To fly south in the winter and north when it gets warm?"
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Untuk terbang ke selatan waktu musim dingin dan pergi ke utara waktu hangat?"
11:36
He said, "No, no, no.
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Dia bilang, "Tidak, tidak, tidak.
11:38
Their DNA is to find the conditions that are conducive to life.
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DNA mereka adalah menemukan kondisi yang kondusif untuk hidup.
11:42
To happiness.
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Untuk kebahagiaan.
11:45
They find it here.
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Mereka menemukannya di sini.
11:47
They don't need anything more."
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Mereka tidak butuh hal lain."
11:49
They stop. They mate with his domesticated geese,
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Mereka berhenti. Mereka kawin dengan angsa lokal,
11:53
and his flock continues.
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dan kumpulan itu berkembang.
11:56
Think about that for a minute.
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Pikirkan itu sebentar.
11:58
It's brilliant, right?
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Itu ide cemerlang, bukan?
11:59
Imagine -- I don't know, imagine a hog farm
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Bayangkan -- Saya tidak tahu, bayangkan sebuah peternakan babi
12:03
in, like, North Carolina,
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di, hmm, Carolina Utara,
12:04
and a wild pig comes upon a factory farm
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dan seekor babi liar datang ke peternakan pabrik
12:09
and decides to stay.
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dan memutuskan untuk tinggal.
12:11
(Laughter)
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(Tawa)
12:12
So how did it taste?
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Jadi bagaimana rasanya?
12:14
I finally got to taste it before I left.
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Saya akhirnya mencicipinya sebelum saya pergi.
12:16
He took me to his neighborhood restaurant
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Dia membawa saya ke restoran setempat
12:19
and he served me some of his foie gras, confit de foie gras.
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dan menghidangkan pada saya foie gras-nya, foie gras confit.
12:23
It was incredible.
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Sungguh luar biasa.
12:25
And the problem with saying that, of course, is that
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Masalah dengan mengatakannya, tentunya, adalah
12:28
you know, at this point it risks hyperbole really easily.
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pada titik ini resiko membesar-besarkan sangat mudah.
12:33
And I'd like to make a metaphor, but I don't have one really.
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Saya ingin membuat metafora, tapi sekarang ini tak punya satupun.
12:37
I was drinking this guy's Kool-Aid so much,
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Saya sungguh terbuai dengan kata-katanya,
12:40
he could have served me goose feathers and I would have been like,
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dia bisa saja menghidangkan bulu angsa dan saya bisa suka,
12:44
this guy's a genius, you know?
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orang ini jenius, anda tahu?
12:46
I'm really in love with him at this point.
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Saya benar-benar jatuh cinta padanya saat ini.
12:48
But it truly was the best foie gras of my life.
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Itu sungguh foie gras terbaik dalam hidup saya.
12:51
So much so that I don't think I had ever really had foie gras until that moment.
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Sungguh terpesona sampai saya pikir saya belum pernah makan foie gras sebelum saat itu.
12:55
I'd had something that was called foie gras.
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Saya makan sesuatu yang disebut foie gras.
12:58
But this was transformative. Really transformative.
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Hal ini mengubahkan. Sangat mengubahkan.
13:00
And I say to you, I might not stick to this,
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Saya berkata pada anda, mungkin saya tidak memegang ini terus,
13:04
but I don't think I'll ever serve foie gras on my menu again
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tapi saya pikir tak akan lagi menghidangkan foie gras di menu saya
13:09
because of that taste experience with Eduardo.
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karena pengalaman rasa dengan Eduardo itu.
13:15
It was sweet, it was unctuous.
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Rasanya manis, lembut.
13:16
It had all the qualities of foie gras,
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Punya semua mutu dari foie gras,
13:19
but its fat had a lot of integrity and a lot of honesty.
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tapi lemaknya punya integritas dan kejujuran yang tinggi.
13:24
And you could taste herbs, you could taste spices.
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Dan anda dapat merasakan herba, merasakan rempah.
13:27
And I kept -- I said, you know, I swear to God I tasted star anise.
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Saya terus -- sumpah pada Tuhan, saya merasakan bunga lawang.
13:33
I was sure of it.
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Saya yakin itu.
13:34
And I'm not like some super taster, you know?
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Saya bukan seorang perasa yang super, anda tahu?
13:36
But I can taste things.
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Tapi saya dapat merasakan beberapa hal.
13:38
There's 100 percent star anise in there.
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100 persen ada bunga lawang di sana.
13:40
And he says, "No."
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Lalu dia berkata, "Tidak."
13:42
And I ended up like going down the spices,
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Dan saya mulai mencari tahu ada bumbu apa saja,
13:43
and finally, it was like, OK, salt and pepper,
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akhirnya, terasa seperti ada garam dan merica,
13:46
thinking he's salted and peppered his liver.
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berpikir dia menggarami dan memberi lada hati angsanya.
13:48
But no.
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Tapi tidak.
13:49
He takes the liver when he harvests the foie gras,
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Dia mengambil hatinya ketika dia memanen foie gras,
13:52
he sticks them in this jar
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dia memasukkan hati itu ke wadah
13:54
and he confits it.
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dan dia mengolahnya.
13:56
No salt, no pepper, no oil, no spices.
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Tak ada garam, merica, minyak, atau rempah.
13:59
What?
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Apa?
14:01
We went back out for the final tour of the farm,
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Kami pergi sekali lagi mengelilingi peternakan,
14:04
and he showed me the wild pepper plants
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dia menunjukkan tanaman lada liar pada saya
14:06
and the plants that he made sure existed on his farm for salinity.
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dan tanaman yang dia tanam di sana karena kadar garam tanah yang tinggi.
14:11
He doesn't need salt and pepper.
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Dia tidak butuh lagi garam dan lada.
14:12
And he doesn't need spices, because he's got this potpourri of herbs and flavors
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Dan dia tak butuh rempah, karena dia punya sejumlah besar herba dan rasa-rasa
14:18
that his geese love to gorge on.
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yang sangat disukai oleh angsa-angsanya.
14:22
I turned to him at the end of the meal,
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Saya berbicara padanya di akhir acara makan,
14:23
and it's a question I asked several times,
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dan ini adalah pertanyaan yang saya tanyakan kesekian kalinya,
14:25
and he hadn't, kind of, answered me directly,
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dan dia belum pernah menjawab saya langsung,
14:27
but I said, "Now look, you're in Spain,
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tapi saya berkata, "Lihat, anda ada di Spanyol,
14:30
some of the greatest chefs in the world are --
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tempat beberapa koki terhebat di dunia --
14:32
Ferran Adria, the preeminent chef of the world today, not that far from you.
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Ferran Adria, koki ternama di dunia saat ini, tak terlalu jauh dari anda.
14:40
How come you don't give him this?
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Bagaimana bisa anda tidak memberinya produk ini?
14:42
How come no one's really heard of you?"
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Bagaimana bisa tak seorang pun mendengar anda?"
14:45
And it may be because of the wine,
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Mungkin karena anggurnya,
14:46
or it may be because of my excitement,
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atau karena saya terlalu bersemangat,
14:47
he answered me directly and he said, "Because chefs don't deserve my foie gras."
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dia menjawab saya langsung dan berkata, "Karena koki-koki itu tak layak mendapat foie gras saya."
14:52
(Laughter)
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(Tawa)
14:55
And he was right.
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Dan dia benar.
14:56
He was right.
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Dia benar.
14:57
Chefs take foie gras and they make it their own.
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Koki mengambil foie gras dan membuatnya jadi milik sendiri.
15:01
They create a dish
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Mereka membuat hidangan
15:03
where all the vectors point at us.
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di mana semua jari menunjuk pada kami.
15:07
With Eduardo it's about the expression of nature.
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Dengan Eduardo, ini adalah tentang ekspresi alam.
15:12
And as he said, I think fittingly,
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Dan dia berkata, menurut saya tepat,
15:16
it's a gift from God, with God saying, you've done good work.
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itu adalah rahmat dari Tuhan, dengan Tuhan berkata, kamu telah berbuat baik.
15:22
Simple.
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Sederhana.
15:24
I flew home, I'm on the flight with my little black book
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Saya terbang ke rumah, dalam perjalanan pulang dengan buku hitam kecil saya
15:26
and I took, you know, pages and pages of notes about it.
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saya membolak balik halaman catatan saya.
15:29
I really was moved.
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Saya sungguh telah tergerak.
15:31
And in the corner of one of these -- one of my notes,
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Di ujung salah satunya -- salah satu catatan saya,
15:36
is this note that says, when asked,
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dalam catatan itu tertulis, ketika ditanya,
15:40
what do you think of conventional foie gras?
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bagaimana pendapat anda tentang foie gras konvensional?
15:41
What do you think of foie gras that
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Bagaimana pendapat anda tentang foie gras
15:42
99.99999 percent of the world eats?
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yang dimakan 99,99999 persen penduduk dunia?
15:47
He said, "I think it's an insult to history."
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Dia berkata, "Saya pikir itu adalah penghinaan sejarah."
15:50
And I wrote, insult to history.
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Lalu saya menulis, penghinaan sejarah.
15:53
I'm on the plane and I'm just tearing my hair out.
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Saya di pesawat dan saya menggaruk-garuk kepala.
15:55
It's like, why didn't I follow up on that?
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Mengapa saya tidak bertanya lebih lanjut?
15:56
What the hell does that mean?
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Apa artinya?
15:57
Insult to history.
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Penghinaan sejarah.
16:00
So I did some research when I got back,
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Maka saya melakukan riset ketika saya kembali,
16:02
and here's what I found.
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dan ini yang saya temukan.
16:04
The history of foie gras.
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Sejarah foie gras.
16:05
Jews invented foie gras.
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Orang Yahudi menemukan foie gras.
16:09
True story.
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Kisah nyata.
16:10
True story.
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Kisah nyata.
16:11
By accident.
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Secara tidak sengaja.
16:13
They were looking for an alternative to schmaltz.
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Mereka mencari alternatif untuk lemak unggas.
16:17
Gotten sick of the chicken fat.
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Sudah jenuh dengan lemak ayam.
16:18
They were looking for an alternative.
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Saat itu mereka sedang mencari alternatif.
16:19
And they saw in the fall that there was this natural,
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Lalu mereka mengamati pada musim gugur ada sesuatu alami,
16:21
beautiful, sweet, delicious fat from geese.
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lemak angsa yang cantik, manis, dan lezat.
16:25
And they slaughtered them, used the fat throughout the winter for cooking.
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Mereka memotong mereka, menggunakan lemaknya untuk memasak selama musim dingin.
16:29
The Pharaoh got wind of this --
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Firaun mendengar hal ini --
16:31
This is true, right off the Internet.
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Ini benar, dari internet.
16:33
The Pharaoh got -- (Laughter)
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Firaun dapat -- (Tawa)
16:36
I swear to God.
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Sumpah.
16:38
(Laughter)
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(Tawa)
16:39
The Pharaoh got wind of this and wanted to taste it.
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Firaun mendengar hal ini dan ingin merasakannya.
16:43
He tasted it and fell in love with it.
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Dia mencicip dan jatuh cinta padanya.
16:45
He started demanding it.
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Dia mulai menginginkannya.
16:46
And he didn't want it just in the fall, he wanted it all year round.
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Dia mau tidak hanya saat musim gugur, dia mau itu ada sepanjang tahun.
16:49
And he demanded that the Jews supply enough for everyone.
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Dia meminta orang-orang Yahudi memasok untuk semua orang.
16:53
And the Jews, fearing for their life,
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Dan orang-orang Yahudi, takut kehilangan nyawa,
16:55
had to come up with an ingenious idea,
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harus menemukan ide baru yang cemerlang,
16:57
or at least try and satisfy the Pharaoh's wishes, of course.
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atau setidaknya mencoba memuaskan keinginan Firaun, tentu saja.
17:01
And they invented, what? Gavage.
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Mereka menemukan sesuatu, apa itu? Pencekokan.
17:03
They invented gavage in a great moment of fear for their lives,
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Mereka menemukan pencekokan di saat terakhir ketakutan kehilangan nyawa,
17:11
and they provided the Pharaoh with gavage liver,
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dan mereka menyediakan hati hasil pencekokan pada Firaun,
17:14
and the good stuff they kept for themselves.
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dan menyimpan hal baik untuk diri mereka sendiri.
17:16
Supposedly, anyway. I believe that one.
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Harusnya begitu, setidaknya. Saya percaya itu.
17:19
That's the history of foie gras.
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Itulah sejarah foie gras.
17:22
And if you think about it,
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Ketika anda berpikir tentang itu,
17:23
it's the history of industrial agriculture.
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itu adalah sejarah pertanian industri.
17:28
It's the history of what we eat today.
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Itulah sejarah apa yang kita makan sekarang.
17:31
Most of what we eat today.
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Kebanyakan yang kita makan sekarang.
17:33
Mega-farms, feed lots, chemical amendments,
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Pertanian besar, tempat makan ternak, penambahan bahan kimia,
17:37
long-distance travel, food processing.
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pengiriman jarak jauh, pengolahan pangan.
17:40
All of it, our food system.
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Semuanya itu, sistem pangan kita.
17:42
That's also an insult to history.
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Itu juga penghinaan sejarah.
17:46
It's an insult to the basic laws of nature
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Itu juga penghinaan hukum dasar alam
17:50
and of biology.
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dan biologi.
17:54
Whether we're talking about beef cattle
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Entah kita bicara tentang sapi pedaging
17:57
or we're talking about chickens,
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atau kita bicara tentang ayam,
18:00
or we're talking about broccoli or Brussels sprouts,
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atau kita bicara tentang brokoli atau brussel sprouts,
18:04
or in the case of this morning's New York Times, catfish --
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atau dalam hal berita New York Times pagi ini, ikan lele --
18:09
which wholesale are going out of business.
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yang penjualannya sedang gulung tikar.
18:13
Whatever it is, it's a mindset that is reminiscent of General Motors.
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Apapun itu, itu adalah cara pikir sisa-sisa General Motors.
18:18
It's rooted in extraction.
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Itu berakar pada ekstraksi.
18:21
Take more, sell more, waste more.
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Ambil lebih, jual lebih, buang lebih.
18:24
And for the future it won't serve us.
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Di masa depan hal itu tak akan menyokong kita.
18:28
Jonas Salk has a great quote.
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Jonas Salk punya kutipan bagus.
18:30
He said, "If all the insects disappeared,
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Dia berkata, "Bila semua serangga lenyap,
18:32
life on Earth as we know it would disappear within 50 years.
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hidup di Bumi seperti kita tahu akan lenyap dalam 50 tahun.
18:39
If human beings disappeared, life on Earth as we know it would flourish."
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Bila manusia lenyap, hidup di Bumi seperti kita tahu akan berkembang."
18:46
And he's right.
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Dan dia benar.
18:50
We need now to adopt a new conception of agriculture.
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Kita butuh mengadopsi konsep pertanian yang baru.
18:56
Really new.
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Benar-benar baru.
18:57
One in which we stop treating the planet
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Salah satunya kita berhenti memperlakukan planet
19:00
as if it were some kind of business in liquidation.
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seperti kita bergerak di bisnis pencairan.
19:04
And stop degrading resources under the guise of
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Dan berhenti merusak sumber daya di balik alasan
19:08
cheap food.
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makanan murah.
19:10
We can start by looking to farmers like Eduardo.
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Kita dapat mulai dari melihat petani seperti Eduardo.
19:14
Farmers that rely on nature
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Peternak yang mengandalkan alam
19:15
for solutions, for answers,
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untuk solusi, untuk jawaban,
19:19
rather than imposing solutions on nature.
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daripada memaksakan solusi ke alam.
19:22
Listening as Janine Benyus,
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Mendengarkan Janine Benyus,
19:24
one of my favorite writers and thinkers about this topic says,
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seorang penulis dan pemikir tentang topik ini, dia berkata,
19:27
"Listening to nature's operating instructions."
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"Mendengarkan petunjuk kerja alam."
19:30
That's what Eduardo does, and does so brilliantly.
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Itulah yang dikerjakan Eduardo, dan dikerjakan dengan sangat baik.
19:33
And what he showed me and what he can show all of us, I think,
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Dia menunjukkan pada saya dan apa yang dapat ditunjukkannya pada kita,
19:35
is that the great thing for chefs, the great blessing for chefs,
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adalah sebuah hal besar untuk koki, rahmat besar,
19:42
and for people that care about food and cooking,
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dan untuk masyarakat yang peduli terhadap pangan dan masakan,
19:49
is that the most ecological choice for food
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bahwa pilihan makanan paling ramah lingkungan
19:52
is also the most ethical choice for food.
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juga adalah pilihan paling etis untuk makanan.
19:55
Whether we're talking about Brussels sprouts or foie gras.
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Entah kita bicara tentang brussel sprouts atau foie gras.
19:58
And it's also almost always, and I haven't found an example otherwise,
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Dan hampir selalu, saya belum menemukan contoh lain,
20:02
but almost always, the most delicious choice.
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tapi hampir selalu, adalah pilihan yang paling lezat.
20:07
That's serendipitous.
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Itu kebetulan yang baik.
20:08
Thank you.
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Terima kasih.
20:09
(Applause)
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(Tepuk tangan)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Dan Barber - ChefDan Barber is a chef and a scholar -- relentlessly pursuing the stories and reasons behind the foods we grow and eat.
Why you should listen
Dan Barber is the chef at New York's Blue Hill restaurant, and Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Westchester, where he practices a kind of close-to-the-land cooking married to agriculture and stewardship of the earth. As described on Chez Pim: "Stone Barns is only 45 minutes from Manhattan, but it might as well be a whole different universe. A model of self-sufficiency and environmental responsibility, Stone Barns is a working farm, ranch, and a three-Michelin-star-worthy restaurant." It's a vision of a new kind of food chain.
Barber's philosophy of food focuses on pleasure and thoughtful conservation -- on knowing where the food on your plate comes from and the unseen forces that drive what we eat. He's written on US agricultural policies, asking for a new vision that does not throw the food chain out of balance by subsidizing certain crops at the expense of more appropriate ones.
In 2009, Barber received the James Beard award for America's Outstanding Chef, and was named one of the world's most influential people in Time’s annual "Time 100" list. In 2014 he published The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food.
Dan Barber | Speaker | TED.com