TED2009
Matthew Childs: 9 life lessons from rock climbing
Cele 9 reguli despre alpinism ale lui Matthew Childs
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In aceasta discutie sustinuta in 2009 la TED University,veteranul alpinist Matthew Childs,impartaseste noua sfaturi despre alpinism. Aceste sfaturi se pot aplica cu succes si in alte domenii , nu doar in alpinism.
Matthew Childs - Marketer, rock climber
Matthew Childs is an advertising lead at Razorfish. He is a lifelong rock climber and climbing guide. Full bio
Matthew Childs is an advertising lead at Razorfish. He is a lifelong rock climber and climbing guide. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
It's pretty simple. There are nine, sort of, rules
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Este destul de simplu. Sunt, oarecum, noua reguli,
00:15
that I discovered after 35 years of rock climbing.
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pe care le-am descoperit in 35 de ani de alpinism.
00:19
Most of them are pretty basic.
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Multe dintre ele sunt elemetare.
00:23
Number one: don't let go --
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Numarul unu: Nu iti da drumul--½
00:26
very sure success method.
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o metoda de succes.
00:28
But really, truly -- often you think about
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Dar de fapt, te gandesti sa iti dai drumul
00:31
letting go way before your body does.
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cu mult inainte ca organismul sa iti cedeze.
00:33
So hang in there,
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Asa ca, rezista
00:35
and you come up with some pretty peculiar solutions.
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si o sa gasesti niste solutii destul de stranii.
00:39
Number two: hesitation is bad.
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Numarul doi: Ezitarea este daunatoare.
00:41
This is a friction climb, up in Tuolumne Meadows,
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Asta e o catarare pe stanci alunecoase, in Tuolumne Meadows,
00:44
in the Yosemite high country.
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in comitatul Yosemite.
00:46
Friction climbing doesn't have any sort of hard positive edges.
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In catarare pe stanci alunecoase, nu ai margini iesite in relief.
00:50
You're climbing on little dimples and nubbins in the rock.
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Ai la dispozitie doar niste crapaturi si bucati de roca inguste.
00:54
The most friction you have is when you first put your hand
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Se poate numi catarare pe stanci alunecoase, doar cand ai pus prima data mana
00:58
or your foot on the rock.
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sau piciorul pe roca.
01:01
And then from that point on, you're basically falling.
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Si in acel moment poti, oricand , sa cazi.
01:05
So momentum is good. Don't stop.
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Avantul e bun. Nu te opri.
01:08
Rule number three: have a plan.
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Regula numarul trei : Fa-ti un plan.
01:10
This is a climb called the Naked Edge,
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Exista un loc greu accesibil numit Naked Edge,
01:12
in El Dorado Canyon, outside of Boulder.
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in El Dorado Canyon, langa Boulder.
01:14
This climber is on the last pitch of it.
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Acest catarator e aproape de varf.
01:17
He's actually right about where I fell.
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De fapt se afla exact in locul de unde am cazut eu.
01:19
There is about 1,000 feet of air below him.
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E la aproape 300 de metri inaltime.
01:22
And all the hard pitches are actually below him.
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Si a trecut de toate locurile cu priza buna.
01:25
Often what happens is
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Se intampla mereu
01:27
you're planning so hard for like,
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sa te gandesti mult la:
01:29
"How do I get through the hardest part? How do I get through the hardest part?"
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"Cum o sa trec de partea cea mai dificila? Cum o sa trec de partea ce mai grea?"
01:32
And then what happens?
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Si apoi ce se intampla?
01:34
You get to the last pitch. It's easy.
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Ajungi la partea cea mai grea.Simplu.
01:36
And you're completely flamed out. Don't do it.
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Si esti terminat de oboseala. Nu face asta.
01:39
You have to plan ahead to get to the top.
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Trebuia sa iti propui sa ajungi in varf.
01:42
But you also can't forget that each individual move
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Dar sa nu uiti ca odata cu fiecare pas
01:45
you have to be able to complete.
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esti mai aproape de final.
01:47
This is a climb called the Dike Route,
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Aceasta e inaltime numita Dike Route,
01:49
on Pywjack Dome, up in the Yosemite high country.
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din Peyrat Dome, sus in comitatul Yosemite.
01:53
The interesting thing about this climb is it's not that hard.
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E interesant ca nu e o catarare chiar asa de grea.
01:56
But if you're the leader on it,
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Dar daca esti liderul,
01:58
at the hardest move, you're looking at about 100 foot fall,
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cel mai rau e, ca te asteapta o cadere de 30 de metri,
02:02
onto some low angle slabs.
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pe niste crevase inguste.
02:04
So you've got to focus.
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Deci trebuie sa te concentrezi.
02:06
You don't want to stop in the middle like
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Sa nu te opresti in mijlocul ascensiunii precum
02:09
Coleridge's Kubla Kahn.
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Coleridge's Kubla Kahn.
02:11
You've got to keep going.
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Trebuie sa continuii.
02:13
Rule number five: know how to rest.
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Regula numarul cinci. Sa sti cum sa te odihnesti.
02:15
It's amazing. The best climbers
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Este uimitor. Cei mai buni cataratori
02:17
are the ones that in the most extreme situations
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sunt cei care in situatii extreme
02:20
can get their bodies into some position
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pot gasi anumite pozitii
02:22
where they can rest,
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in care sa se odihneasca,
02:24
regroup, calm themselves, focus,
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sa se adune, sa se calmeze, sa se concentreze,
02:27
and keep going.
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si sa continue urcarea.
02:31
This is a climb in the Needles, again in California.
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Aceasta e o catarare in Needles, tot in California.
02:33
Fear really sucks because what it means is
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Nu e bine sa iti fie frica, pentru ca
02:35
you're not focusing on what you're doing.
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nu te mai concentrezi pe ceea ce faci.
02:38
You're focusing on the consequences of
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Te gandesti la ce urmari ar avea faptul ca
02:40
failing at what you're doing
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nu ai reusit sa faci ce ti-ai propus
02:43
because any given move should require
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pentru ca oricarei miscari trebuie sa ii acorzi
02:45
all your concentration and thought processes
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concentrare maxima si atentie
02:50
to execute it effectively.
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ca sa o executi in mod eficient.
02:52
One of the things in climbing is, most people
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Un aspect in catarare este ca, multi oameni
02:55
sort of take it straight on. And they follow the most obvious solution.
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se avanta cu "capul inainte". Si aleg solutia cea mai evidenta.
02:59
This is the Devils Tower in Wyoming,
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Acesta e turnul Devils din Wyoming,
03:02
which is a columnar basalt formation
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este o formatiune din bazalt
03:05
that most of you probably know from "Close Encounters."
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pe care multi dintre voi probabil o stiti din "Intalnire de gradul trei"
03:08
With this, typically crack climbers
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Aici, cataratorii obisnuiti
03:10
would put their hands in and their toes in
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si-ar baga degetele si picioarele in crapaturi
03:12
and just start climbing.
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si ar incepe sa se catere.
03:14
The cracks are too small to get your toes into
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Crapaturile sunt prea mici ca sa te poti agata bine
03:17
so the only way to climb is using your fingertips
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trebuie sa iti folosesti varfurile degetelor
03:20
in the cracks,
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in crapaturi,
03:22
and using opposing pressure
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trebuie sa aplici presiune de o parte si de alta a peretelui
03:24
and forcing yourself up.
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si sa ridici in sus.
03:27
Rule number eight: strength doesn't always equal success.
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Regula numarul opt: Forta nu inseamna neaparat ca o sa si reusesti.
03:30
In the 35 years I've been a climbing guide
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In 35 de ani de cand sunt ghid in catarare
03:32
and taught on indoor walls, and stuff like that,
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si am predat catararea pe ziduri artificiale, si chestii de genu asta,
03:34
the most important thing I've learned
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cel mai important lucru pe care l-am invatat
03:36
was, guys will always try to do pull-ups.
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a fost ca , barbatii mereu vor incerca sa catere doar cu ajutorul mainilor.
03:39
Beginning guys, it's like, they thrash, they thrash,
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Incepatorii, fac asa mereu, se forteaza,
03:41
they get 15 feet up --
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ajung la 5-6metri altitudine.
03:43
and they can do about 15 pull-ups right --
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Folosindu-se doar de maini
03:45
And then they just flame out.
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Si dupa aia sunt extenuati.
03:47
Women are much more in balance
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Femeile sunt mai echilibrate,
03:49
because they don't have that idea
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pentru ca nu se ghideaza dupa aceasi idee
03:52
that they're going to be able to do 100 pull-ups.
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se se catare doar cu ajutorul tractiunilor.
03:54
They think about how to get the weight over their feet
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Se gandesc cum sa-si distribuie greutatea in picioare
03:57
because it's sort of natural -- they carry you all day long.
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pentru ca asa e normal. Asta fac cu voi toata ziua.
04:00
So balance is really critical,
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Echilibrul e critic,
04:02
and keeping your weight on your feet,
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la fel si mentinerea greutatii in picioare,
04:04
which is your strongest muscle.
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care au muschii mai puternici.
04:06
And of course there is rule number nine.
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Si apoi mai avem desigur regula numarul noua.
04:08
I came up with rule number nine after
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Cu asta am venit dupa
04:10
I actually didn't plan for a fall,
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De fapt nu am planuit sa cad,
04:12
and went about 40 feet and cracked a rib.
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ce am cazut vreo 13-14 metri si mi-am rupt o coasta.
04:15
Once you get to that point where you know it's going to happen,
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Odata ce ai ajuns la acel punct cand stii ce se va intampla,
04:18
you need to start thinking about how you're going to let go
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trebuie sa te gandesti la cum sa iti dai drumul
04:21
because that is the critical piece
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pentru ca asta e important
04:24
of not getting hurt --
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daca nu vrei sa te ranesti--
04:26
how you're going to fall onto the rope,
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cum o sa cazi fie ca esti alpinist
04:30
or if you're climbing without a rope,
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fie ca esti catarator,
04:32
fall to a place where you can actually control the fall.
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trebuie sa fi in stare sa iti controlezi caderea.
04:36
So don't hang on till the bitter end.
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Asa ca nu va tineti de franghie pana nu mai puteti.
04:39
Thank you very much.
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Va multumesc foarte mult.
04:41
(Applause)
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(Aplauze)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Matthew Childs - Marketer, rock climberMatthew Childs is an advertising lead at Razorfish. He is a lifelong rock climber and climbing guide.
Why you should listen
A specialist in digital branding and interactive services, Matthew Childs seeks out new trends in competitive markets. As an advertising lead at Razorfish, Childs draws from extensive experience in the marketing world, having led Nike's global internal communications department. Before that, he was a writer and editor for Outside Magazine and Playboy.
Apart from his career, Childs' passion is rock climbing.
Matthew Childs | Speaker | TED.com