TED2009
Matthew Childs: 9 life lessons from rock climbing
Metju Čajlds prenosi devet životnih lekcija iz sportskog penjanja
Filmed:
Readability: 3.1
842,059 views
U ovom govoru sa TED univerziteta 2009, Metju Čajlds, sportski penjač veteran, podelio je devet važnih pravila u sportskom penjanju stenama. Ovi zgodni saveti funkcionišu i u stvarnom životu, na nivou mora.
Matthew Childs - Marketer, rock climber
Matthew Childs is an advertising lead at Razorfish. He is a lifelong rock climber and climbing guide. Full bio
Matthew Childs is an advertising lead at Razorfish. He is a lifelong rock climber and climbing guide. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
It's pretty simple. There are nine, sort of, rules
0
0
3000
Prilično je jednostavno. Ima devet pravila
00:15
that I discovered after 35 years of rock climbing.
1
3000
4000
koja sam otkrio nakon 35 godina sportskog penjanja.
00:19
Most of them are pretty basic.
2
7000
4000
Većina njih je prilično jednostavna.
00:23
Number one: don't let go --
3
11000
3000
Pravilo broj jedan: ne puštajte --
00:26
very sure success method.
4
14000
2000
veoma pouzdan metod za uspeh.
00:28
But really, truly -- often you think about
5
16000
3000
Ali zapravo -- često pomislite na
00:31
letting go way before your body does.
6
19000
2000
puštanje čak i pre nego što vaše telo to pomisli.
00:33
So hang in there,
7
21000
2000
Tako da, držite se,
00:35
and you come up with some pretty peculiar solutions.
8
23000
4000
i naići će neka čudna rešenja.
00:39
Number two: hesitation is bad.
9
27000
2000
Broj dva: oklevanje je loše.
00:41
This is a friction climb, up in Tuolumne Meadows,
10
29000
3000
Ovo je penjanje, gore u "Tuolomni Medous"-u,
00:44
in the Yosemite high country.
11
32000
2000
u okrugu "Josemiti".
00:46
Friction climbing doesn't have any sort of hard positive edges.
12
34000
4000
Penjanje uz trenje nema oštrih rubova.
00:50
You're climbing on little dimples and nubbins in the rock.
13
38000
4000
Penjete se uz mala ulegnuća i izbočine u steni.
00:54
The most friction you have is when you first put your hand
14
42000
4000
Trenje je najveće tek kada se prvi put uhvatite
00:58
or your foot on the rock.
15
46000
3000
ili dodirnete nogom stenu.
01:01
And then from that point on, you're basically falling.
16
49000
4000
Od tog momenta praktično padate.
01:05
So momentum is good. Don't stop.
17
53000
3000
Dakle, impuls je dobar. Nemojte stajati.
01:08
Rule number three: have a plan.
18
56000
2000
Pravilo broj tri: imajte plan.
01:10
This is a climb called the Naked Edge,
19
58000
2000
Ova stena se zove "Gola litica"
01:12
in El Dorado Canyon, outside of Boulder.
20
60000
2000
u kanjonu je El Dorado, kod Buldera.
01:14
This climber is on the last pitch of it.
21
62000
3000
Ovaj penjač je gotovo na vrhu.
01:17
He's actually right about where I fell.
22
65000
2000
Baš tamo gde sam ja pao.
01:19
There is about 1,000 feet of air below him.
23
67000
3000
Ispod njega je oko tri stotine metara vazduha.
01:22
And all the hard pitches are actually below him.
24
70000
3000
Sve kritične tačke su zapravo ispod njega.
01:25
Often what happens is
25
73000
2000
Često se desi
01:27
you're planning so hard for like,
26
75000
2000
da detaljno planirate,
01:29
"How do I get through the hardest part? How do I get through the hardest part?"
27
77000
3000
"Kako ću proći najtežu deonicu? Kako ću proći najtežu deonicu?"
01:32
And then what happens?
28
80000
2000
I šta se onda dogodi?
01:34
You get to the last pitch. It's easy.
29
82000
2000
Stignete do poslednje tačke. Lako je.
01:36
And you're completely flamed out. Don't do it.
30
84000
3000
I potpuno izgorite. Ne radite to.
01:39
You have to plan ahead to get to the top.
31
87000
3000
Morate unapred planirati da stignete do vrha.
01:42
But you also can't forget that each individual move
32
90000
3000
Ali takođe ne možete zaboraviti na svaki pojedinačni pokret
01:45
you have to be able to complete.
33
93000
2000
koji morate napraviti da biste stigli do kraja.
01:47
This is a climb called the Dike Route,
34
95000
2000
Ovo je uspon "Dajk rut"
01:49
on Pywjack Dome, up in the Yosemite high country.
35
97000
4000
na Pivdžek doumu, gore u Josemiti okrugu.
01:53
The interesting thing about this climb is it's not that hard.
36
101000
3000
Interesantna stvar u vezi sa ovim usponom je da nije težak.
01:56
But if you're the leader on it,
37
104000
2000
Ali ako ste lider na njemu
01:58
at the hardest move, you're looking at about 100 foot fall,
38
106000
4000
na najtežem delu vidite pad od oko 30 metara,
02:02
onto some low angle slabs.
39
110000
2000
na stene pod uglom manjim od 90 stepeni.
02:04
So you've got to focus.
40
112000
2000
Morate se usredsrediti.
02:06
You don't want to stop in the middle like
41
114000
3000
Ne želite da stanete na pola.
02:09
Coleridge's Kubla Kahn.
42
117000
2000
kao Koleridž Kubla Kan.
02:11
You've got to keep going.
43
119000
2000
Morate da nastavite.
02:13
Rule number five: know how to rest.
44
121000
2000
Pravilo broj pet: znati odmoriti se.
02:15
It's amazing. The best climbers
45
123000
2000
Neverovatno je. Najbolji penjači
02:17
are the ones that in the most extreme situations
46
125000
3000
su oni koji u najekstremnijim situacijama
02:20
can get their bodies into some position
47
128000
2000
mogu dovesti svoje telo u položaj
02:22
where they can rest,
48
130000
2000
u kom mogu da se odmore
02:24
regroup, calm themselves, focus,
49
132000
3000
pregrupišu, smire, usredsrede
02:27
and keep going.
50
135000
4000
i nastave.
02:31
This is a climb in the Needles, again in California.
51
139000
2000
Postoji uspon u Nidlsu, opet u Kaliforniji.
02:33
Fear really sucks because what it means is
52
141000
2000
Strah ne valja jer znači
02:35
you're not focusing on what you're doing.
53
143000
3000
da niste udredsređeni na to što radite.
02:38
You're focusing on the consequences of
54
146000
2000
Već se fokusirate na posledice
02:40
failing at what you're doing
55
148000
3000
mogućeg neuspeha,
02:43
because any given move should require
56
151000
2000
jer svaki sledeći pokret zahteva
02:45
all your concentration and thought processes
57
153000
5000
svu vašu koncentraciju i misaone procese
02:50
to execute it effectively.
58
158000
2000
kako biste završili sa uspehom.
02:52
One of the things in climbing is, most people
59
160000
3000
Jedna od stvari kod penjanje je da većina ljudi
02:55
sort of take it straight on. And they follow the most obvious solution.
60
163000
4000
gleda na to ravno. A onda sledi očigledno rešenje.
02:59
This is the Devils Tower in Wyoming,
61
167000
3000
Ovo je Đavolji toranj u Vajomingu,
03:02
which is a columnar basalt formation
62
170000
3000
stene su nastale hlađenjem lave,
03:05
that most of you probably know from "Close Encounters."
63
173000
3000
većina vas to zna iz "Bliskih susreta".
03:08
With this, typically crack climbers
64
176000
2000
Ovde bi tipični penjači koji koriste pukotine
03:10
would put their hands in and their toes in
65
178000
2000
uglavili svoje ruke i nožne prste
03:12
and just start climbing.
66
180000
2000
i počeli se penjati.
03:14
The cracks are too small to get your toes into
67
182000
3000
Pukotine su isuviše male za to
03:17
so the only way to climb is using your fingertips
68
185000
3000
pa je jedini način za penjanje korišćenje vrhova prstiju
03:20
in the cracks,
69
188000
2000
u pukotinama
03:22
and using opposing pressure
70
190000
2000
i korišćenje pritiska koji se suprotstavlja
03:24
and forcing yourself up.
71
192000
3000
i teranje sebe na gore.
03:27
Rule number eight: strength doesn't always equal success.
72
195000
3000
Pravilo osam: snaga ne znači uvek uspeh.
03:30
In the 35 years I've been a climbing guide
73
198000
2000
35 godina sam bio penjač - vodič
03:32
and taught on indoor walls, and stuff like that,
74
200000
2000
i podučavao na zidovima u zatvorenom prostoru i tome slično.
03:34
the most important thing I've learned
75
202000
2000
Najvažnija stvar koju sam naučio
03:36
was, guys will always try to do pull-ups.
76
204000
3000
bila je da će momci uvek pokušati da se penju rukama, zgibovima.
03:39
Beginning guys, it's like, they thrash, they thrash,
77
207000
2000
Početnici se tako popnu
03:41
they get 15 feet up --
78
209000
2000
nekih pet metara
03:43
and they can do about 15 pull-ups right --
79
211000
2000
oni mogu uraditi nekih 15 zgibova --
03:45
And then they just flame out.
80
213000
2000
I onda jednostavno izgore.
03:47
Women are much more in balance
81
215000
2000
Žene su mnogo više balansirane
03:49
because they don't have that idea
82
217000
3000
jer nemaju tu ideju
03:52
that they're going to be able to do 100 pull-ups.
83
220000
2000
da su sposobne da urade 100 zgibova.
03:54
They think about how to get the weight over their feet
84
222000
3000
Misle na to kako da prebace težinu sa nogu
03:57
because it's sort of natural -- they carry you all day long.
85
225000
3000
i to je prirodno - one vas nose celog dana.
04:00
So balance is really critical,
86
228000
2000
Tako da je ravnoteža veoma kritična,
04:02
and keeping your weight on your feet,
87
230000
2000
kao i držanje težine na stopalima
04:04
which is your strongest muscle.
88
232000
2000
koja su vaš najsnažniji mišić.
04:06
And of course there is rule number nine.
89
234000
2000
Tu je, naravno i pravilo devet.
04:08
I came up with rule number nine after
90
236000
2000
Smislio sam ovo pravilo
04:10
I actually didn't plan for a fall,
91
238000
2000
jer ja zapravo nisam planirao da padnem,
04:12
and went about 40 feet and cracked a rib.
92
240000
3000
i da padam 12 metara i polomim rebro.
04:15
Once you get to that point where you know it's going to happen,
93
243000
3000
Kada dođe momenat u kom shvatite da će se to desiti,
04:18
you need to start thinking about how you're going to let go
94
246000
3000
morate da počnete da mislite kako ćete se pusiti.
04:21
because that is the critical piece
95
249000
3000
jer je to kritičan momenat
04:24
of not getting hurt --
96
252000
2000
u odbrani od povrede -
04:26
how you're going to fall onto the rope,
97
254000
4000
kako ćete pasti na konopac
04:30
or if you're climbing without a rope,
98
258000
2000
ili ako se penjete bez konopca
04:32
fall to a place where you can actually control the fall.
99
260000
4000
kako ćete pasti negde gde zapravo možete kontrolisati pad.
04:36
So don't hang on till the bitter end.
100
264000
3000
Ne odustanite sve do gorkog kraja.
04:39
Thank you very much.
101
267000
2000
Hvala puno.
04:41
(Applause)
102
269000
2000
(Aplauz)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Matthew Childs - Marketer, rock climberMatthew Childs is an advertising lead at Razorfish. He is a lifelong rock climber and climbing guide.
Why you should listen
A specialist in digital branding and interactive services, Matthew Childs seeks out new trends in competitive markets. As an advertising lead at Razorfish, Childs draws from extensive experience in the marketing world, having led Nike's global internal communications department. Before that, he was a writer and editor for Outside Magazine and Playboy.
Apart from his career, Childs' passion is rock climbing.
Matthew Childs | Speaker | TED.com