TED2009
Matthew Childs: 9 life lessons from rock climbing
Matthew Childs a jeho 9 životných lekcií z lezenia
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Lezecký veterán Matthew Childs sa v príspevku z TED University 2009 delí s deviatimi zásadami lezenia. Jeho praktické rady sa hodia aj do života bližšie k hladine mora.
Matthew Childs - Marketer, rock climber
Matthew Childs is an advertising lead at Razorfish. He is a lifelong rock climber and climbing guide. Full bio
Matthew Childs is an advertising lead at Razorfish. He is a lifelong rock climber and climbing guide. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
It's pretty simple. There are nine, sort of, rules
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Je to celkom jednoduché. Existuje 9 pravidiel,
00:15
that I discovered after 35 years of rock climbing.
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ktoré som odhalil počas 35 rokov lezenia.
00:19
Most of them are pretty basic.
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Väčšinou sú dosť základné.
00:23
Number one: don't let go --
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Číslo jedna: Nevzdávajte to --
00:26
very sure success method.
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veľmi osvedčená metóda.
00:28
But really, truly -- often you think about
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Ale vskutku -- často premýšlate, že to vzdáte
00:31
letting go way before your body does.
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dávno predtým, než to vzdá vaše telo.
00:33
So hang in there,
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Takže držte sa
00:35
and you come up with some pretty peculiar solutions.
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a napadnú vás celkom svojrázne riešenia.
00:39
Number two: hesitation is bad.
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Číslo dva: Neváhajte.
00:41
This is a friction climb, up in Tuolumne Meadows,
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Toto je lezenie na "trenie" v Tuolumne Meadows
00:44
in the Yosemite high country.
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v Yosemitskej vrchovine.
00:46
Friction climbing doesn't have any sort of hard positive edges.
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Lezenie na trenie nemá žiadne výrazné stupy.
00:50
You're climbing on little dimples and nubbins in the rock.
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Leziete na malých jamkách a hrboľoch v skale.
00:54
The most friction you have is when you first put your hand
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Najväčšie trenie máte v momente, keď položíte ruku
00:58
or your foot on the rock.
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alebo nohu na skalu.
01:01
And then from that point on, you're basically falling.
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Od toho momentu prakticky padáte.
01:05
So momentum is good. Don't stop.
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Takže švih je dobrý. Nezastavujte sa.
01:08
Rule number three: have a plan.
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Pravidlo číslo tri: Plánujte.
01:10
This is a climb called the Naked Edge,
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Toto je cesta Naked Edge (Nahá hrana)
01:12
in El Dorado Canyon, outside of Boulder.
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v kaňone El Dorado pri Boulderi.
01:14
This climber is on the last pitch of it.
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Tento lezec je v poslednom úseku.
01:17
He's actually right about where I fell.
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Je presne tam, kde som padol.
01:19
There is about 1,000 feet of air below him.
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Pod ním je asi 300 metrov vzduchu.
01:22
And all the hard pitches are actually below him.
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Všetky ťažké úseky už má za sebou.
01:25
Often what happens is
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Často sa stane, že
01:27
you're planning so hard for like,
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úporne plánujete:
01:29
"How do I get through the hardest part? How do I get through the hardest part?"
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"Ako sa dostanem cez najťažšiu časť? Ako sa dostanem cez najťažšiu časť?"
01:32
And then what happens?
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A čo sa stane?
01:34
You get to the last pitch. It's easy.
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Dostanete sa do posledného ľahkého úseku.
01:36
And you're completely flamed out. Don't do it.
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A celkom vám dôjde para. Toho sa vyvarujte.
01:39
You have to plan ahead to get to the top.
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Musíte plánovať, ako sa dostať až hore.
01:42
But you also can't forget that each individual move
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Nezabudnite, že musíte byť schopný dokončiť
01:45
you have to be able to complete.
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každý jednotlivý krok.
01:47
This is a climb called the Dike Route,
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Toto je cesta s názvom Dike Route,
01:49
on Pywjack Dome, up in the Yosemite high country.
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na Peyrat Dome, v Yosemitskej vrchovine.
01:53
The interesting thing about this climb is it's not that hard.
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Zaujímavá je tým, že nie je až tak ťažká.
01:56
But if you're the leader on it,
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Ak ju ale ťaháte,
01:58
at the hardest move, you're looking at about 100 foot fall,
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v najťažšom mieste vám hrozí asi 30 metrový pád
02:02
onto some low angle slabs.
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na platňu pod tupým uhlom.
02:04
So you've got to focus.
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Musíte sa preto sústrediť.
02:06
You don't want to stop in the middle like
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Nechcete sa zaseknúť v prostriedku ako
02:09
Coleridge's Kubla Kahn.
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Coleridgov Kubla Kahn.
02:11
You've got to keep going.
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Musíte pokračovať.
02:13
Rule number five: know how to rest.
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Pravidlo číslo päť: Naučte sa oddychovať.
02:15
It's amazing. The best climbers
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Je fascinujúce, ako najlepší lezci
02:17
are the ones that in the most extreme situations
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dokážu aj v najextrémnejších situáciách
02:20
can get their bodies into some position
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dať svoje telo do pozície,
02:22
where they can rest,
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v ktorej si oddýchnu,
02:24
regroup, calm themselves, focus,
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upokoja sa, skoncentrujú sa,
02:27
and keep going.
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a pokračujú.
02:31
This is a climb in the Needles, again in California.
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Toto je cesta v Needles, znova v Kalifornii.
02:33
Fear really sucks because what it means is
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Strach dokáže byť fakt otrava, pretože
02:35
you're not focusing on what you're doing.
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sa nesústredíte na to, čo robíte.
02:38
You're focusing on the consequences of
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Sústredíte sa na dôsledky
02:40
failing at what you're doing
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zlyhania pri tom, čo robíte.
02:43
because any given move should require
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Každý jednotlivý krok si vyžaduje
02:45
all your concentration and thought processes
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vašu plnú pozornosť a sústredenie,
02:50
to execute it effectively.
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ak má byť vykonaný účinne.
02:52
One of the things in climbing is, most people
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V lezení ľudia často
02:55
sort of take it straight on. And they follow the most obvious solution.
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na to idú priamočiaro. Idú za najočividnejším riešením.
02:59
This is the Devils Tower in Wyoming,
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Toto je Devils Tower (Diablova veža) vo Wyomingu,
03:02
which is a columnar basalt formation
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stĺpcový čadičový monolit,
03:05
that most of you probably know from "Close Encounters."
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ktorý asi väčšina z vás pozná z "Blízkych stretnutí."
03:08
With this, typically crack climbers
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Špároví lezci väčšinou
03:10
would put their hands in and their toes in
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vtesnajú ruky a nohy
03:12
and just start climbing.
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a začnú hneď liezť.
03:14
The cracks are too small to get your toes into
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Špáry sú príliš úzke na vtesnanie špičky,
03:17
so the only way to climb is using your fingertips
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takže jediným spôsobom lezenia je vložiť prsty
03:20
in the cracks,
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do špáry
03:22
and using opposing pressure
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a "lezením na sokolíka"
03:24
and forcing yourself up.
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sa ťahať hore.
03:27
Rule number eight: strength doesn't always equal success.
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Pravidlo číslo osem: Sila nezaručuje vždy úspech.
03:30
In the 35 years I've been a climbing guide
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Počas 35 rokov som bol lezeckým vodcom
03:32
and taught on indoor walls, and stuff like that,
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a učil som na umelých stenách a tak,
03:34
the most important thing I've learned
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to najdôležitejšie, čo som sa naučil,
03:36
was, guys will always try to do pull-ups.
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je, že chalani budú vždy skúšať zhyby.
03:39
Beginning guys, it's like, they thrash, they thrash,
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Začínajúci chalani to tam natlačia,
03:41
they get 15 feet up --
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dostanú sa do výšky 5 metrov.
03:43
and they can do about 15 pull-ups right --
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Veď vedia spraviť tak 15 zhybov, nie?
03:45
And then they just flame out.
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A potom im proste dôjde para.
03:47
Women are much more in balance
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Ženy sú oveľa vyrovnanejšie,
03:49
because they don't have that idea
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lebo im ani nenapadne,
03:52
that they're going to be able to do 100 pull-ups.
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že by mohli urobiť 100 zhybov.
03:54
They think about how to get the weight over their feet
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Premýšľajú, ako presunúť váhu na nohy,
03:57
because it's sort of natural -- they carry you all day long.
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čo je v podstate prirodzené. Nosia nás celý deň.
04:00
So balance is really critical,
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Rovnováha je fakt kritická,
04:02
and keeping your weight on your feet,
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preneste váhu na nohy,
04:04
which is your strongest muscle.
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ktoré sú vaším najsilnejším svalom.
04:06
And of course there is rule number nine.
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No a napokon pravidlo číslo deväť.
04:08
I came up with rule number nine after
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Na toto pravidlo som prišiel,
04:10
I actually didn't plan for a fall,
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keď som neplánoval padnúť,
04:12
and went about 40 feet and cracked a rib.
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a zletel som asi 12 metrov a zlomil si rebro.
04:15
Once you get to that point where you know it's going to happen,
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Akonáhle viete, že sa to má stať,
04:18
you need to start thinking about how you're going to let go
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musíte zvážiť, ako sa pustíte,
04:21
because that is the critical piece
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pretože to je to podstatné,
04:24
of not getting hurt --
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aby ste sa nezranili --
04:26
how you're going to fall onto the rope,
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ako spadnete do lana,
04:30
or if you're climbing without a rope,
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alebo, ak leziete bez lana,
04:32
fall to a place where you can actually control the fall.
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ako spadnúť niekam, kde môžete pád kontrolovať.
04:36
So don't hang on till the bitter end.
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Takže, nedržte sa až do trpkého konca.
04:39
Thank you very much.
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Ďakujem vám veľmi pekne.
04:41
(Applause)
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(Potlesk)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Matthew Childs - Marketer, rock climberMatthew Childs is an advertising lead at Razorfish. He is a lifelong rock climber and climbing guide.
Why you should listen
A specialist in digital branding and interactive services, Matthew Childs seeks out new trends in competitive markets. As an advertising lead at Razorfish, Childs draws from extensive experience in the marketing world, having led Nike's global internal communications department. Before that, he was a writer and editor for Outside Magazine and Playboy.
Apart from his career, Childs' passion is rock climbing.
Matthew Childs | Speaker | TED.com