TED2010
Dan Barber: How I fell in love with a fish
Dan Barber: kuidas ma armusin kalasse
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Kokk Dan Barber võitleb dilemmaga, mis ähvardab tänapäeval paljusid kokki: kuidas pidada menüüs kala. Laitmatute taustauuringute ning surmtõsise huumoriga võtab ta kokku oma otsingud jätkusuutliku kala jahil, keda ta võiks armastada, ning toidufanaatiku mesinädalad, mida ta on nautinud sellest saadik, kui avastas pööraselt maitsva kala revolutsioonilisest kalakasvandusest Hispaanias.
Dan Barber - Chef
Dan Barber is a chef and a scholar -- relentlessly pursuing the stories and reasons behind the foods we grow and eat. Full bio
Dan Barber is a chef and a scholar -- relentlessly pursuing the stories and reasons behind the foods we grow and eat. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:16
So, I've known a lot of fish in my life.
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Ma olen elus tundnud palju kalu.
00:20
I've loved only two.
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Armastanud olen vaid kaht.
00:23
That first one,
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Esimene oli rohkem nagu
00:25
it was more like a passionate affair.
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kirglik afäär.
00:28
It was a beautiful fish:
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See oli ilus kala,
00:30
flavorful, textured, meaty,
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maitsev, hea tekstuuriga, rohke lihaga,
00:33
a bestseller on the menu.
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menüüde menuk.
00:35
What a fish.
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Milline kala.
00:37
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
00:40
Even better,
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Veelgi parem:
00:42
it was farm-raised to the supposed highest standards
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see oli pärit kasvandusest, kus väidetavalt
00:45
of sustainability.
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järgiti keskkonnasäästlikkuse kõrgeimaid standardeid.
00:48
So you could feel good about selling it.
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Et oleks hea tunne seda müüa.
00:52
I was in a relationship with this beauty
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Ma olin selle iludusega suhtes
00:54
for several months.
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mitu kuud.
00:58
One day, the head of the company called
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Ühel päeval helistas firmajuht
01:00
and asked if I'd speak at an event
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ja küsis, kas ma räägiksin ühel üritusel
01:02
about the farm's sustainability.
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selle kasvanduse loodussäästlikkusest.
01:04
"Absolutely," I said.
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"Muidugi räägin," vastasin.
01:06
Here was a company trying to solve
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See oli firma, mis püüdis lahendada
01:09
what's become this unimaginable problem for us chefs:
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kokkade jaoks kujuteldamatult keerulist probleemi.
01:13
How do we keep fish on our menus?
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Kuidas pidada kala oma menüüs?
01:17
For the past 50 years,
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Viimase 50 aasta jooksul
01:20
we've been fishing the seas
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oleme merest kala püüdnud
01:22
like we clear-cut forests.
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nagu metsades lageraiet tehes.
01:25
It's hard to overstate the destruction.
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Raske oleks hävingut üle hinnata.
01:30
Ninety percent of large fish, the ones we love --
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90% suurtest kaladest, keda me armastame -
01:33
the tunas, the halibuts, the salmons, swordfish --
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tuunikala, hiidlest, lõhe, mõõkkala -
01:36
they've collapsed.
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on hävinud.
01:38
There's almost nothing left.
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Peaaegu mitte midagi ei ole alles.
01:41
So, for better or for worse,
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Nii et paratamatult on akvakultuur,
01:44
aquaculture, fish farming, is going to be a part of our future.
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kala tootmine kasvandustes, osa meie tulevikust.
01:47
A lot of arguments against it:
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On palju vastuargumente.
01:49
Fish farms pollute -- most of them do anyway --
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Kalakasvandused saastavad keskkonda
01:52
and they're inefficient. Take tuna,
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ja nad on ebaefektiivsed. Näiteks tuunikala.
01:54
a major drawback.
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Tohutu tagasilöök.
01:56
It's got a feed conversion ratio
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Söödakulu suhtarv on
01:58
of 15 to one.
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viisteist ühele.
02:00
That means it takes fifteen pounds of wild fish
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Kulub viisteist kilo loodusest püütud kala,
02:02
to get you one pound of farm tuna.
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selleks, et saada kasvandusest üks kilo tuunikala.
02:06
Not very sustainable.
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Mitte väga jätkusuutlik.
02:08
It doesn't taste very good either.
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Ei maitse ka kuigi hästi.
02:11
So here, finally,
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Aga lõpuks olin leidnud ettevõtte,
02:13
was a company trying to do it right.
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mis püüdis kõike õigesti teha.
02:15
I wanted to support them.
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Ma tahtsin neid toetada.
02:18
The day before the event,
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Päev enne üritust helistasin
02:20
I called the head of P.R. for the company.
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firma suhetekorraldajale.
02:23
Let's call him Don.
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Nimetagem teda Doniks.
02:27
"Don," I said, "just to get the facts straight, you guys are famous
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Ma ütlesin: "Don, te olete kuulsad selle poolest,
02:30
for farming so far out to sea, you don't pollute."
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et te kasvatate kalu nii kaugel meres, et see ei saasta keskkonda."
02:33
"That's right," he said. "We're so far out,
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"Õige," ütles ta. "Meie kasvandus on nii kaugel merel,
02:36
the waste from our fish gets distributed,
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et meie kalade saaste jaotub laiali,
02:39
not concentrated."
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mitte ei koondu kokku."
02:41
And then he added,
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Siis ta lisas:
02:43
"We're basically a world unto ourselves.
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"Me oleme praktiliselt omaette maailm.
02:47
That feed conversion ratio? 2.5 to one," he said.
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Söödakulu on 2,5 ühele.
02:50
"Best in the business."
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Parim näitaja terves äris."
02:52
2.5 to one, great.
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2,5 ühele - suurepärane.
02:54
"2.5 what? What are you feeding?"
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"2,5 ühele mida? Mis sööta te kasutate?"
02:56
"Sustainable proteins," he said.
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"Jätkusuutlikke valke," vastas ta.
02:59
"Great," I said. Got off the phone.
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"Tore," vastasin. Lõpetasin kõne.
03:02
And that night, I was lying in bed, and I thought:
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Ja sel ööl voodis lamades mõtlesin ma:
03:05
What the hell is a sustainable protein?
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"Mis kuradi asi on jätkusuutlik valk?"
03:07
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
03:12
So the next day, just before the event, I called Don.
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Järgmisel päeval, just enne üritust, helistasin ma Donile.
03:14
I said, "Don, what are some examples of sustainable proteins?"
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Küsisin: "Don, tooge mõni näide, mis on jätkusuutlik valk?"
03:18
He said he didn't know. He would ask around.
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Ta ei teadnud ja lubas küsida.
03:21
Well, I got on the phone with a few people in the company;
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Helistasin mõnele teisele inimesele samast firmast.
03:23
no one could give me a straight answer
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Mitte keegi ei osanud mulle konkreetselt vastata.
03:26
until finally, I got on the phone
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Kuni ma lõpuks sain ühendust
03:29
with the head biologist.
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firma juhtiva bioloogiga.
03:31
Let's call him Don too.
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Nimetagem ka teda Doniks.
03:33
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
03:37
"Don," I said,
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"Don," ütlesin ma,
03:39
"what are some examples of sustainable proteins?"
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"tooge mulle mõni näide jätkusuutlikust valgust."
03:42
Well, he mentioned some algaes
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Ta nimetas mõningaid vetikaid
03:44
and some fish meals,
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ja kalajahu
03:46
and then he said chicken pellets.
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ja siis ütles: kanagraanulid.
03:48
I said, "Chicken pellets?"
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Ma küsisin üle: "Kanagraanulid?"
03:50
He said, "Yeah, feathers, skin,
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Ta ütles: "Jah, suled, nahk,
03:52
bone meal, scraps,
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kondijahu, jäätmed,
03:54
dried and processed into feed."
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mis kuivatatakse ja töödeldakse söödaks."
03:57
I said, "What percentage
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Ma küsisin: "Kui suur protsent
03:59
of your feed is chicken?"
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söödast koosneb kanast?"
04:02
Thinking, you know, two percent.
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Kujutasin ette, et see võiks olla näiteks 2%.
04:05
"Well, it's about 30 percent," he said.
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"Umbes 30%," ütles Don.
04:08
I said, "Don, what's sustainable
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Ma küsisin: "Don, kuidas on jätkusuutlik
04:11
about feeding chicken to fish?"
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kanade söötmine kaladele?"
04:13
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
04:18
There was a long pause on the line,
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Telefonis oli pikk paus ja ta ütles:
04:21
and he said, "There's just too much chicken in the world."
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"Maailmas on lihtsalt liiga palju kanu."
04:24
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
04:30
I fell out of love with this fish.
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Ma lakkasin seda kala armastamast.
04:32
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
04:34
No, not because I'm some self-righteous,
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Ei, mitte sellepärast, et ma oleksin mõni vagatsev
04:37
goody-two shoes foodie.
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enesega rahulolev toidufanaatik.
04:39
I actually am.
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Tegelikult olen küll.
04:41
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
04:43
No, I actually fell out of love with this fish because, I swear to God,
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Ei, tegelikult ma lakkasin seda kala armastamast, sest ausõna,
04:45
after that conversation, the fish tasted like chicken.
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pärast seda vestlust maitses kala nagu kana.
04:48
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
04:58
This second fish,
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Teise kalaga
05:01
it's a different kind of love story.
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oli hoopis teistsugune armastuslugu.
05:04
It's the romantic kind,
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Selline romantiline, kus on nii,
05:07
the kind where the more you get to know your fish,
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et mida rohkem sa oma kalast teada saad,
05:10
you love the fish.
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seda rohkem sa teda armastad.
05:13
I first ate it at a restaurant
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Esmakordselt sõin seda restoranis
05:15
in southern Spain.
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Lõuna-Hispaanias.
05:17
A journalist friend had been talking about this fish for a long time.
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Üks ajakirjanikust sõber oli mulle sellest kalast ammu rääkinud.
05:20
She kind of set us up.
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Ta oli meie kosjasobitajaks.
05:22
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
05:24
It came to the table
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See kala toodi lauale -
05:26
a bright, almost shimmering, white color.
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erksavärviline, peaaegu läiklev, valget värvi.
05:31
The chef had overcooked it.
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Kokk oli selle üle küpsetanud.
05:34
Like twice over.
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Vähemalt kaks korda üle.
05:37
Amazingly, it was still delicious.
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Hämmastaval kombel oli see ikkagi hõrk.
05:40
Who can make a fish taste good
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Kes suudaks panna kala hästi maitsema
05:44
after it's been overcooked?
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pärast seda, kui see on üle küpsetatud?
05:46
I can't,
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Mina ei suuda,
05:48
but this guy can.
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aga see tüüp suudab.
05:50
Let's call him Miguel --
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Nimetagem teda Migueliks.
05:52
actually his name is Miguel.
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Õieti ta nimi ongi Miguel.
05:54
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
05:57
And no, he didn't cook the fish, and he's not a chef,
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Ei, tema ei küpsetanud kala, ta pole kokk,
05:59
at least in the way that you and I understand it.
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vähemalt mitte selles tähenduses nagu meie mõtleme.
06:03
He's a biologist
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Ta on bioloog
06:05
at Veta La Palma.
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Veta La Palmas.
06:07
It's a fish farm in the southwestern corner of Spain.
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See on kalakasvandus Edela-Hispaanias.
06:10
It's at the tip of the Guadalquivir river.
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Guadalquiviri jõe ülemjooksul.
06:13
Until the 1980s,
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1980ndateni oli see kasvandus
06:15
the farm was in the hands of the Argentinians.
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argentiinlaste kätes.
06:18
They raised beef cattle
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Nad kasvatasid seal veiseid
06:20
on what was essentially wetlands.
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ning see territoorium oli algselt märgala.
06:23
They did it by draining the land.
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Nad kuivendasid maa
06:25
They built this intricate series of canals,
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ja ehitasid keerulise kanalite süsteemi,
06:28
and they pushed water off the land and out into the river.
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mis tõmbas maa kuivaks ja juhtis vee jõkke.
06:32
Well, they couldn't make it work,
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Aga nad ei saanud seda süsteemi tööle
06:34
not economically.
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majanduslikus mõttes.
06:36
And ecologically, it was a disaster.
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Ja ökoloogiliselt oli see katastroof.
06:39
It killed like 90 percent of the birds,
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See tappis umbes 90% lindudest,
06:41
which, for this place, is a lot of birds.
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mis selle paiga kohta tähendab väga palju linde.
06:44
And so in 1982,
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1982. aastal ostis selle maa
06:46
a Spanish company with an environmental conscience
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üks Hispaania firma, kellel oli
06:48
purchased the land.
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keskkondlik südametunnistus.
06:50
What did they do?
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Ja mida tegid nemad?
06:52
They reversed the flow of water.
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Nad panid vee teistpidi voolama.
06:54
They literally flipped the switch.
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Nad sõna otseses mõttes keerasid lülitit.
06:56
Instead of pushing water out,
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Selle asemel, et lükata vett välja,
06:58
they used the channels to pull water back in.
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kasutasid nad kanaleid, et tõmmata vesi tagasi sisse.
07:00
They flooded the canals.
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Nad ujutasid kanalid üle
07:02
They created a 27,000-acre fish farm --
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ja lõid 27 000 aakrit kalakasvandust -
07:06
bass, mullet,
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ahven, kefaal,
07:08
shrimp, eel --
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krevett, angerjas -
07:11
and in the process, Miguel and this company
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ja protsessi käigus suutsid Miguel ja see firma
07:14
completely reversed the ecological destruction.
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anda ökoloogilisele hävitustööle tagasikäigu.
07:18
The farm's incredible.
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See kasvandus on uskumatu.
07:20
I mean, you've never seen anything like this.
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Te pole kunagi midagi sellist näinud.
07:23
You stare out at a horizon
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Te vaatate silmapiiri poole,
07:26
that is a million miles away,
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mis on miljoni miili kaugusel,
07:28
and all you see are flooded canals
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ja näete ainult üleujutatud kanaleid
07:30
and this thick, rich marshland.
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ja tihedat, rikkalikku soomaad.
07:35
I was there not long ago with Miguel.
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Ma käisin seal hiljuti koos Migueliga.
07:38
He's an amazing guy,
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Ta on hämmastav tüüp,
07:41
like three parts Charles Darwin and one part Crocodile Dundee.
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kolm osa Charles Darwinit ja üks osa Krokodill Dundee'd.
07:44
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
07:46
Okay? There we are slogging through the wetlands,
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Seal me vantsime läbi märgalade,
07:50
and I'm panting and sweating, got mud up to my knees,
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ma hingeldan ja higistan, muda põlvini,
07:52
and Miguel's calmly conducting a biology lecture.
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ning Miguel peab rahulikult bioloogialoengut.
07:56
Here, he's pointing out a rare Black-shouldered Kite.
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Kord näitab a mulle haruldast hõbehaugast.
07:59
Now, he's mentioning the mineral needs of phytoplankton.
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Siis mainib ta fütoplanktonite mineraalseid vajadusi.
08:03
And here, here he sees a grouping pattern
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Seejärel märkab ta mustrit,
08:06
that reminds him of the Tanzanian Giraffe.
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mis meenutab talle tansaania kaelkirjakut.
08:11
It turns out, Miguel spent the better part of his career
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Selgub, et Miguel veetis parima osa oma karjäärist
08:14
in the Mikumi National Park in Africa.
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Mikumi rahvuspargis Aafrikas.
08:17
I asked him how he became
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Ma küsisin, kuidas temast sai
08:19
such an expert on fish.
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säherdune asjatundja kalade alal.
08:21
He said, "Fish? I didn't know anything about fish.
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Ta vastas: "Kalad? Ma ei tea kaladest midagi.
08:24
I'm an expert in relationships."
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Ma olen asjatundja suhete alal."
08:27
And then he's off, launching into more talk
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Ja ta räägib edasi
08:29
about rare birds and algaes
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haruldastest lindudest, vetikatest
08:31
and strange aquatic plants.
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ja kummalistest veetaimedest.
08:33
And don't get me wrong, that was really fascinating, you know,
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Ärge mõistke mind valesti, see kõik oli väga huvitav,
08:36
the biotic community unplugged, kind of thing.
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nagu biootiline kogukond unplugged või nii.
08:39
It's great, but I was in love.
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Tore. Aga ma olin armunud
08:42
And my head was swooning over that
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ega suutnud mõelda muust, kui sellest
08:45
overcooked piece of delicious fish I had the night before.
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üleküpsetatud maitsvast kalast, mida ma olin eelmisel õhtul söönud.
08:48
So I interrupted him. I said,
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Nii et ma katkestasin teda. Küsisin:
08:50
"Miguel, what makes your fish taste so good?"
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"Miguel, miks su kala nii hästi maitseb?"
08:52
He pointed at the algae.
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Ta näitas vetikatele.
08:54
"I know, dude, the algae, the phytoplankton,
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"Jah, ma saan aru, vetikad, fütoplaktonid,
08:57
the relationships: It's amazing.
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suhted, see kõik on hämmastav.
09:00
But what are your fish eating?
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Aga mida su kalad söövad?
09:02
What's the feed conversion ratio?"
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Mis on sööda kulu vahekord?"
09:05
Well, he goes on to tell me
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Ta räägib mulle, et see on
09:09
it's such a rich system
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säherdune rikkalik süsteem,
09:11
that the fish are eating what they'd be eating in the wild.
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et kalad söövad seda, mida nad looduslikult sööksid.
09:14
The plant biomass, the phytoplankton,
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Taimede biomass, fütoplankton,
09:17
the zooplankton, it's what feeds the fish.
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zooplankton, see kõik on kalade söödaks.
09:19
The system is so healthy,
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Süsteem on nii terve,
09:21
it's totally self-renewing.
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et taastab end täiel määral ise.
09:23
There is no feed.
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Sööta ei ole.
09:26
Ever heard of a farm that doesn't feed its animals?
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Olete kuulnud kasvandusest, mis oma loomi ei sööda?
09:33
Later that day, I was driving around this property with Miguel,
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Samal päeval, kui ma Migueliga mööda seda ala ringi sõitsin,
09:35
and I asked him, I said, "For a place that seems so natural,
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küsisin temalt: "Kohas, mis nii loomulik tundub,
09:39
unlike like any farm I'd ever been at,
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(erinevalt kõigist teistest kasvandustest, kus ma viibinud olin)
09:44
how do you measure success?"
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mille järgi sa edu hindad?"
09:47
At that moment, it was as if
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Sel momendil oleks justkui mõni filmirežissöör
09:50
a film director called for a set change.
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nõudnud võtteplatsi vahetust.
09:52
And we rounded the corner
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Me jõudsime ümber nurga
09:54
and saw the most amazing sight:
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ja nägime kõige imelisemat vaatepilti -
09:56
thousands and thousands of pink flamingos,
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tuhanded ja tuhanded roosad flamingod,
09:59
a literal pink carpet for as far as you could see.
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roosa vaip nii kaugele, kui pilk ulatub.
10:03
"That's success," he said.
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"See ongi edu," ütles ta.
10:06
"Look at their bellies, pink.
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"Vaata nende roosasid kõhtusid.
10:08
They're feasting."
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Neil on pidusööming."
10:10
Feasting? I was totally confused.
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Sööming? Ma olin täiesti segaduses.
10:12
I said, "Miguel, aren't they feasting on your fish?"
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Ma küsisin: "Miguel, kas nad mitte ei söö sinu kalu?"
10:14
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
10:16
"Yes," he said.
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"Jah," vastas ta.
10:18
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
10:24
"We lose 20 percent of our fish
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"Me kaotame 20% oma kaladest
10:26
and fish eggs to birds.
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ja kalamarjast lindudele.
10:30
Well, last year, this property
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Eelmisel aastal oli sel kinnistul
10:32
had 600,000 birds on it,
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600 000 lindu
10:34
more than 250 different species.
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rohkem kui 250 erinevast liigist.
10:36
It's become, today, the largest
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Tänaseks on sellest saanud suurim
10:39
and one of the most important
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ja olulisem
10:42
private bird sanctuaries in all of Europe."
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lindude eravarjupaik kogu Euroopas."
10:46
I said, "Miguel, isn't a thriving bird population
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Ma küsisin: "Miguel, kas jõudsalt kasvav lindude populatsioon
10:49
like the last thing you want on a fish farm?"
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pole mitte viimane asi, mida sa kalakasvandusse tahaksid?"
10:51
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
10:53
He shook his head, no.
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Ta raputas pead: "Ei.
10:55
He said, "We farm extensively,
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Me kasvandame ekstensiivselt,
10:58
not intensively.
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mitte intensiivselt.
11:01
This is an ecological network.
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See on ökoloogiline võrgustik.
11:04
The flamingos eat the shrimp.
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Flamingod söövad krevette.
11:06
The shrimp eat the phytoplankton.
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Krevetid söövad fütoplanktonit.
11:08
So the pinker the belly,
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Nii et mida roosam on kõhuke,
11:10
the better the system."
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seda parem on süsteem."
11:13
Okay, so let's review:
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Nii. Vaatame üle.
11:15
a farm that doesn't feed its animals,
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Kasvandus, mis ei sööda oma loomi,
11:18
and a farm that measures its success
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kasvandus, mis määratleb oma edu
11:21
on the health of its predators.
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röövloomade tervise järgi.
11:23
A fish farm, but also a bird sanctuary.
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Kalakasvandus, mis on samas lindude varjupaik.
11:26
Oh, and by the way, those flamingos,
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Muuseas, need flamingod
11:28
they shouldn't even be there in the first place.
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ei tohiks seal üldse olla.
11:30
They brood in a town
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Nad pesitsevad linnas,
11:32
150 miles away,
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mis asub 150 miili eemal,
11:34
where the soil conditions
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kus pinnas on sobilikum
11:36
are better for building nests.
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pesade ehitamiseks.
11:38
Every morning, they fly
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Igal hommikul lendavad nad
11:40
150 miles into the farm.
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150 miili kasvandusse
11:44
And every evening, they fly 150 miles back.
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ja igal õhtul 150 miili tagasi.
11:47
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
11:54
They do that because they're able to follow
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Nad teevad seda sellepärast, et nad suudavad
11:57
the broken white line
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järgida valget punktiirjoont
11:59
of highway A92.
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A92 kiirteel.
12:01
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
12:03
No kidding.
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Tõsijutt.
12:05
I was imagining a "March of the Penguins" thing,
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Ma kujutlesin pingviinide marsi taolist asja,
12:08
so I looked at Miguel.
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nii et ma vaatasin Miguelile otsa
12:10
I said, "Miguel, do they fly
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ja küsisin: "Kuule, kas nad tõesti lendavad
12:12
150 miles to the farm,
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150 miili kasvandusse
12:14
and then do they fly
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ja seejärel, kas nad lendavad
12:16
150 miles back at night?
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õhtul 150 miili tagasi?
12:18
Do they do that for the children?"
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Kas nad teevad seda laste pärast?"
12:21
He looked at me like I had just quoted a Whitney Houston song.
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Ta vaatas mind nii, nagu ma oleksin just tsiteerinud mõnd Whitney Houstoni laulu.
12:24
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
12:28
He said, "No; they do it because the food's better."
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Ta ütles: "Ei. Nad teevad seda sellepärast, et siin on parem toit."
12:31
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
12:33
I didn't mention the skin of my beloved fish,
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Ma ei maininud oma armastatud kala nahka,
12:41
which was delicious -- and I don't like fish skin;
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mis oli imemaitsev, ja mulle ei meeldi kalanahk.
12:43
I don't like it seared, I don't like it crispy.
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Mulle ei meeldi see küpsetatult ega praetult.
12:46
It's that acrid, tar-like flavor.
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Tal on selline kirbe tõrva maitse.
12:50
I almost never cook with it.
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Ma ei küpseta kala peaaegu kunagi koos nahaga.
12:53
Yet, when I tasted it at that restaurant in southern Spain,
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Ent selles Lõuna-Hispaania restoranis
12:56
it tasted not at all like fish skin.
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ei maitsenud see sugugi nagu kalanahk.
12:59
It tasted sweet and clean,
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Sel oli õrn ja puhas maitse,
13:02
like you were taking a bite of the ocean.
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nagu oleksin hammustanud ookeani.
13:05
I mentioned that to Miguel, and he nodded.
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Ma mainisin seda Miguelile ja ta noogutas.
13:07
He said, "The skin acts like a sponge.
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Ta ütles: "Nahk toimib nagu käsn.
13:09
It's the last defense before anything enters the body.
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See on viimane kaitsekiht, enne kui miski kehasse jõuab.
13:12
It evolved to soak up impurities."
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See on arenenud mustust imama."
13:14
And then he added,
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Ja siis ta lisas:
13:16
"But our water has no impurities."
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"Aga meie vetes ei ole mingit mustust."
13:22
OK. A farm that doesn't feed its fish,
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Hüva. Kasvandus, mis ei sööda oma kalu.
13:26
a farm that measures its success
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Kasvandus, mis hindab oma edu
13:29
by the success of its predators.
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röövloomade edu järgi.
13:31
And then I realized when he says,
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Ja ma mõistsin, et kui ta ütles
13:33
"A farm that has no impurities,"
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"kasvandus, milles pole mustust",
13:36
he made a big understatement,
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oli see väga pehmelt öeldud,
13:38
because the water that flows through that farm
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sest vesi, mis läbi selle kasvanduse voolab,
13:40
comes in from the Guadalquivir River.
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tuleb Guadalquiviri jõest.
13:43
It's a river that carries with it
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See on jõgi, mis kannab endas kõike,
13:45
all the things that rivers tend to carry these days:
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mida jõed tänavapäeval kipuvad kandma,
13:48
chemical contaminants,
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keemilist reostust,
13:50
pesticide runoff.
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pestitsiidide jääke.
13:52
And when it works its way through the system
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Ja läbi kasvanduse voolates,
13:55
and leaves,
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sellest välja voolates,
13:57
the water is cleaner than when it entered.
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on vesi puhtam kui sisenedes.
13:59
The system is so healthy, it purifies the water.
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Süsteem on nii terve, et see puhastab vee ära.
14:03
So, not just a farm that doesn't feed its animals,
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Nii et mitte üksnes kasvandus, msi ei sööda oma loomi,
14:05
not just a farm that measures its success
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mitte üksnes kasvandus, mis hindab oma edu
14:08
by the health of its predators,
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röövloomade tervise järgi,
14:10
but a farm that's literally a water purification plant --
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vaid kasvandus, mis on sõna tõsises mõttes veepuhastusjaam,
14:16
and not just for those fish,
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ja mitte üksnes kalade jaoks,
14:19
but for you and me as well.
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vaid teie ja minu jaoks samuti.
14:21
Because when that water leaves, it dumps out into the Atlantic.
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Sest sealt lahkudes voolab vesi Atlandi ookeani.
14:26
A drop in the ocean, I know,
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See on tilgake ookeanis, ma tean,
14:28
but I'll take it, and so should you,
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aga mulle see sobib, ja teile peaks ka sobima,
14:31
because this love story,
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sest see armastuslugu,
14:35
however romantic,
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kuitahes romantiline see ka ei oleks,
14:37
is also instructive.
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on ühtlasi ka õpetlik.
14:39
You might say it's a recipe
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Võiks öelda, et see on
14:41
for the future of good food,
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tuleviku hea toidu retsept,
14:43
whether we're talking about bass or beef cattle.
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ükskõik kas rääkida ahvenast või veistest.
14:47
What we need now is
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Nüüd vajame me radikaalselt uut
14:49
a radically new conception of agriculture,
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põllumajanduskontseptsiooni -
14:52
one in which the food actually tastes good.
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sellist, milles toit maitseks tõesti ka hästi.
14:54
(Laughter)
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(Naer)
14:56
(Applause)
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(Aplaus)
15:02
But for a lot people,
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Aga paljude inimeste jaoks
15:04
that's a bit too radical.
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on see pisut liiga radikaalne.
15:07
We're not realists, us foodies;
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Meie - toidufanaatikud - ei ole realistid.
15:09
we're lovers.
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Me oleme armastajad.
15:11
We love farmers' markets,
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Me armastame talutoodete turge,
15:13
we love small family farms,
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armastame väikeseid peretalusid.
15:16
we talk about local food,
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Me räägime kohalikust toidust.
15:18
we eat organic.
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Me sööme orgaanilist toitu.
15:21
And when you suggest these are the things
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Ja kui väita, et need on asjad,
15:23
that will ensure the future of good food,
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mis kindlustavad hea toidu tuleviku,
15:27
someone, somewhere stands up and says,
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tõuseb keegi kusagil püsti ja ütleb:
15:29
"Hey guy, I love pink flamingos,
332
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"Hei, sina, ma armastan roosasid flamingosid,
15:33
but how are you going to feed the world?"
333
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aga kuidas sa kavatsed maailma ära toita?"
15:36
How are you going to feed the world?
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Kuidas maailm ära toita?
15:39
Can I be honest?
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Kas tohib, ma olen aus?
15:41
I don't love that question.
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Mulle ei meeldi see küsimus.
15:44
No, not because we already produce
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Mitte sellepärast, et me toodame juba niigi
15:46
enough calories to more than feed the world.
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rohkem kaloreid, kui läheks vaja, et maailm ära toita.
15:49
One billion people will go hungry today.
339
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Täna jääb nälga miljard inimest.
15:52
One billion -- that's more than ever before --
340
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Miljard - see on rohkem kui kunagi varem -
15:56
because of gross inequalities in distribution,
341
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ja seda toidu jaotumise ebavõrdsuse,
15:59
not tonnage.
342
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mitte tonnaaži pärast.
16:02
Now, I don't love this question because it's determined the logic
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Ma ei armasta seda küsimust, sest see on määratlenud meie
16:04
of our food system for the last 50 years.
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toidusüsteemi loogika viimase viiekümne aasta jooksul.
16:07
Feed grain to herbivores,
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Söödame vilja taimetoidulistele loomadele,
16:10
pesticides to monocultures, chemicals to soil,
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pestitsiide monokultuuridele, kemikaale pinnasele,
16:12
chicken to fish,
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kanu kaladele,
16:15
and all along agribusiness
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ja põllumajandusäri on kogu aeg
16:18
has simply asked,
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üksnes küsinud:
16:20
"If we're feeding more people more cheaply,
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"Kui me toidame rohkem inimesi odavamalt,
16:22
how terrible could that be?"
351
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kui halb see ikka on?"
16:25
That's been the motivation,
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See on olnud ameerika põllumajanduse
16:27
it's been the justification:
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motivatsioon,
16:29
it's been the business plan
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õigustus
16:32
of American agriculture.
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ja äriplaan.
16:34
We should call it what it is:
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Me peaksime seda nimetama õige nimega:
16:36
a business in liquidation,
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äri, mis likvideerub,
16:39
a business that's quickly eroding
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äri, mis kulutab kiiresti
16:42
ecological capital that makes that very production possible.
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ökoloogilist kapitali, mis tootmise üldse võimalikuks teeb.
16:45
That's not a business,
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See pole äri
16:47
and it isn't agriculture.
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ja see ei ole põllumajandus.
16:49
Our breadbasket is threatened today,
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Meie leivakorv on praegu ohus
16:52
not because of diminishing supply,
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ja seda mitte järjest väheneva varustuse pärast,
16:54
but because of diminishing resources.
364
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vaid järjest vähenevate ressursside pärast.
16:57
Not by the latest combine and tractor invention,
365
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Asi pole mitte viimastes leiutistes seoses kombainide ja traktoritega,
17:00
but by fertile land;
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vaid viljakas maas.
17:02
not by pumps, but by fresh water;
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Mitte pumpades, vaid värske vee varudes.
17:05
not by chainsaws, but by forests;
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Mitte mootorsaagides, vaid metsades.
17:08
and not by fishing boats and nets, but by fish in the sea.
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Mitte kaluripaatides ja võrkudes, vaid meres leiduvas kalas.
17:11
Want to feed the world?
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Tahate maailma ära toita?
17:13
Let's start by asking: How are we going to feed ourselves?
371
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Küsigem alustuseks: kuidas me iseend ära toidame?
17:17
Or better: How can we create conditions
372
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Või veel parem: kuidas me saame luua tingimused,
17:20
that enable every community
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mis võimaldaksid igal kogukonnal
17:23
to feed itself?
374
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iseend ära toita?
17:25
(Applause)
375
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(Aplaus)
17:32
To do that,
376
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Selleks ei ole mõtet vaadata
17:34
don't look at the agribusiness model for the future.
377
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põllumajanduse ärimudeli poole tuleviku perspektiivis.
17:37
It's really old, and it's tired.
378
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See on väga vana ja väsinud.
17:39
It's high on capital, chemistry and machines,
379
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Sel on palju kapitali, keemiat ja masinaid
17:43
and it's never produced anything really good to eat.
380
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ja see pole kunagi tootnud midagi head söömiseks.
17:48
Instead, let's look to the ecological model.
381
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Selle asemel vaadakem ökoloogilise mudeli poole.
17:52
That's the one that relies on two billion years
382
1057000
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See toetub kahe miljardi aasta pikkusele
17:55
of on-the-job experience.
383
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töökogemusele.
17:58
Look to Miguel,
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Vaadake Migueli poole
18:00
farmers like Miguel.
385
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ja teiste temasarnaste farmerite poole.
18:02
Farms that aren't worlds unto themselves;
386
1067000
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Kasvanduste poole, mis pole omaette maailmad,
18:05
farms that restore instead of deplete;
387
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mis taastavad, selmet ammendada,
18:10
farms that farm extensively
388
1075000
2000
mis tegutsevad ekstensiivselt,
18:12
instead of just intensively;
389
1077000
2000
selmet piirduda intensiivsega.
18:14
farmers that are not just producers,
390
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Farmerid, kes pole üksnes tootjad,
18:17
but experts in relationships.
391
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vaid asjatundjad suhete alal.
18:19
Because they're the ones
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Sest nemad on need,
18:21
that are experts in flavor, too.
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kes on asjatundjad ka maitsete alal.
18:24
And if I'm going to be really honest,
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Ja kui päris aus olla,
18:26
they're a better chef than I'll ever be.
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on nemad paremad kokad, kui mina üldse kunagi võiksin olla.
18:29
You know, I'm okay with that,
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Aga see ei häiri mind,
18:32
because if that's the future of good food, it's going to be delicious.
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sest kui see on hea toidu tulevik, siis on see hirmus maitsev.
18:35
Thank you.
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Aitäh.
18:37
(Applause)
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(aplaus)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Dan Barber - ChefDan Barber is a chef and a scholar -- relentlessly pursuing the stories and reasons behind the foods we grow and eat.
Why you should listen
Dan Barber is the chef at New York's Blue Hill restaurant, and Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Westchester, where he practices a kind of close-to-the-land cooking married to agriculture and stewardship of the earth. As described on Chez Pim: "Stone Barns is only 45 minutes from Manhattan, but it might as well be a whole different universe. A model of self-sufficiency and environmental responsibility, Stone Barns is a working farm, ranch, and a three-Michelin-star-worthy restaurant." It's a vision of a new kind of food chain.
Barber's philosophy of food focuses on pleasure and thoughtful conservation -- on knowing where the food on your plate comes from and the unseen forces that drive what we eat. He's written on US agricultural policies, asking for a new vision that does not throw the food chain out of balance by subsidizing certain crops at the expense of more appropriate ones.
In 2009, Barber received the James Beard award for America's Outstanding Chef, and was named one of the world's most influential people in Time’s annual "Time 100" list. In 2014 he published The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food.
Dan Barber | Speaker | TED.com