Taste3 2008
Benjamin Wallace: The price of happiness
本杰明·瓦伦斯：幸福的价格
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Readability: 3.9
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幸福可以被买到吗？作家本杰明·瓦伦斯以世界最贵的产品为例帮你找出答案。这些示例包括一瓶1947年白马庄园出产的葡萄酒，8盎司神户牛肉和传说中（臭名昭著的）印尼麝香貓咖啡。本杰明的评价将令你惊奇。
Benjamin Wallace - Author
Benjamin Wallace is a journalist and author of The Billionaire's Vinegar, the true story of the world's most expensive bottle of (possibly phony?) wine. He's been a contributor to GQ, Details, Salon and The Washington Post. Full bio
Benjamin Wallace is a journalist and author of The Billionaire's Vinegar, the true story of the world's most expensive bottle of (possibly phony?) wine. He's been a contributor to GQ, Details, Salon and The Washington Post. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:16
I'm just going to play a brief video clip.
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我现在播放一段短片。
00:22
Video:
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视频：五万英镑
00:23
On the fifth of December 1985, a bottle of 1787 Lafitte was sold
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1985年的十二月五号，一瓶1787年的拉菲特葡萄酒被售出。
00:29
for 105,000 pounds -- nine times the previous world record.
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售价为十万五千英镑， 九倍于前世界纪录。
00:34
The buyer
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福布斯先生。
00:36
was Kip Forbes,
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买家是基普·福布斯，
00:38
son of one of the most flamboyant millionaires of the 20th century.
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某位二十世纪最声名显赫的百万富翁之子。
00:41
The original owner of the bottle turned out to be
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这瓶酒的上一任拥有者是
00:43
one of the most enthusiastic wine buffs of the 18th century.
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十八世纪最狂热的葡萄酒爱好者之一。
00:47
Château Lafitte is one of the greatest wines in the world,
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尚图·拉菲特是全世界顶级葡萄酒之一，
00:51
the prince of any wine cellar.
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任何酒窖中的极品。
00:53
Benjamin Wallace: Now, that's about all the videotape that remains of an event
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本杰明·瓦伦斯：现在，这段影片纪录了
00:55
that set off the longest-running mystery in the modern wine world.
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堪称现代葡萄酒世界持续时间最长的秘密。♫
00:59
And the mystery existed because of a gentleman named Hardy Rodenstock.
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而这秘密的存在起因于一位名为哈迪·鲁登斯托克的绅士。
01:04
In 1985, he announced to his friends in the wine world
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1985年，他对自己在葡萄酒界的朋友们宣布
01:07
that he had made this incredible discovery.
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他有一个令人难以置信的发现
01:09
Some workmen in Paris had broken through a brick wall,
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一些在巴黎的工人们砸破了一堵砖墙
01:13
and happened upon this hidden cache of wines --
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从而发现了这些被匿藏的葡萄酒
01:16
apparently the property of Thomas Jefferson. 1787, 1784.
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这似乎是托马斯·杰斐逊的财产。年份1787、1784
01:21
He wouldn't reveal the exact number of bottles,
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他不愿意公开确切的数量
01:23
he would not reveal
exactly where the building was
exactly where the building was
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他也不会公布建筑物的确切地址
01:26
and he would not reveal exactly who owned the building.
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他更不会公布具体的拥有人姓名
01:29
The mystery persisted for about 20 years.
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这个秘密持续了20年
01:32
It finally began to get resolved in 2005 because of this guy.
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最终，在2005年有人揭开了谜底。
01:37
Bill Koch is a Florida billionaire who owns four of the Jefferson bottles,
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比尔·寇奇是一位佛罗里达的亿万富翁，拥有四瓶杰斐逊葡萄酒。
01:40
and he became suspicious.
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他对此事开始质疑。
01:42
And he ended up spending over a million dollars and hiring ex-FBI
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他最终用一百多万美元聘请了一些前FBI
01:46
and ex-Scotland Yard agents to try to get to the bottom of this.
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和前苏格兰场侦探彻查这一事件。
01:50
There's now ample evidence that Hardy Rodenstock is a con man,
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如今有充分的证据表明哈迪·鲁登斯托克是个诈骗犯，
01:53
and that the Jefferson bottles were fakes.
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那些杰斐逊葡萄酒也是伪造的。
01:55
But for those 20 years,
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但在那20年里
01:57
an unbelievable number of really eminent and accomplished figures
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这些酒被高价售出
02:03
in the wine world were sort of drawn into the orbit of these bottles.
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并被给予葡萄酒界中极高的评价
02:05
I think they wanted to believe that the most expensive bottle of wine
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我想人们都想要相信
02:10
in the world must be the best bottle of wine in the world,
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全世界最贵的酒一定就是最好的，
02:13
must be the rarest bottle of wine in the world.
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肯定是世间最稀有的。
02:16
I became increasingly, kind of voyeuristically interested in the question of
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我开始逐渐变得狂热于追求一个问题的答案
02:21
you know, why do people spend these crazy amounts of money,
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那就是：为什么人们愿意为葡萄酒或其他的东西
02:24
not only on wine but on lots of things,
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挥霍大笔金钱？
02:27
and are they living a better life than me?
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这些人是否活得比我好？
02:29
So, I decided to embark on a quest.
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所以，我决心寻求答案。
02:31
With the generous backing of a magazine I write for sometimes,
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凭借一份我常投稿的杂志慷慨赞助
02:34
I decided to sample the very best, or most expensive, or most coveted item
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我决定在数十个大类中
02:41
in about a dozen categories,
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选出最好的，最贵的或人们最想要的事物加以体验，
02:43
which was a very grueling quest,
as you can imagine.
as you can imagine.
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你可以想像，这个过程何其痛苦
02:45
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
02:46
This was the first one.
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这里是第一件。
02:48
A lot of the Kobe beef that you see in the U.S. is not the real thing.
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很多你在美国见到的神户牛肉不是真品
02:51
It may come from Wagyu cattle,
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那可能是和牛，
02:53
but it's not from the original, Appalachian Hyogo Prefecture in Japan.
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但不是原产于阿帕拉契山脉的日本兵库。
02:56
There are very few places in the U.S. where you can try real Kobe,
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在美国只有很少的几个地方可以品尝真正的神户牛肉，
02:59
and one of them is Wolfgang Puck's restaurant, Cut, in Los Angeles.
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其中之一就是位于洛杉矶，沃尔福冈·普克的饭店，CUT。
03:03
I went there, and I ordered the eight-ounce rib eye for 160 dollars.
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我去了那里，点了价值160美元的8盎司肋眼牛排。
03:07
And it arrived, and it was tiny.
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上菜了，牛排很小。
03:09
And I was outraged.
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我当时气坏了。
03:11
It was like, 160 dollars for this?
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这就值160美元？
03:13
And then I took a bite,
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然后我尝了一口，
03:15
and I wished that it was tinier, because Kobe beef is so rich.
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我但愿这牛排更小点，因为神户牛肉太肥腻了。
03:19
It's like foie gras -- it's not even like steak.
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味道就像鹅肝- 甚至不能算牛排。
03:22
I almost couldn't finish it.
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我几乎就吃不完。
03:24
I was really happy when I was done.
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当我终于吃光时，我可真开心。
03:26
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
03:27
Now, the photographer who took the pictures for this project
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现在这张照片是这个项目的摄影师拍摄的
03:31
for some reason posed his dog in a lot of them,
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不知道为什么，在很多照片里放上了他的狗。
03:33
so that's why you're going to see this recurring character.
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所以你们会一直看到它。
03:36
Which, I guess, you know, communicates to you
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我猜，你已经知道
03:38
that I did not think that one was really worth the price.
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我觉得那牛排不值。
03:42
White truffles.
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白松露
03:44
One of the most expensive luxury foods by weight in the world.
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世间最贵的食材
03:46
To try this, I went to a Mario Batali restaurant
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为此，我去了位于曼哈顿的马利奥 巴塔利餐厅，
03:48
in Manhattan -- Del Posto.
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它位于德尔 泊斯托。
03:50
The waiter, you know, came out with the white truffle knob
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服务生拿着白松露和刮刀出来后，
03:53
and his shaver, and he shaved it onto my pasta and he said, you know,
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他把松露刮成碎屑，撒在我的意大利面上，然后对我说
03:57
"Would Signore like the truffles?"
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“先生要一些松露吗？”
03:59
And the charm of white truffles is in their aroma.
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白松露的迷人之处在于它的香味。
04:01
It's not in their taste, really. It's not in their texture.
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不是口感，也不是材质
04:04
It's in the smell.
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气味才是关键。
04:05
These white pearlescent flakes hit the noodles,
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当这些白珍珠色的小片落到面条上，
04:07
this haunting, wonderful, nutty, mushroomy smell wafted up.
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一股醉人的，香味浓郁的松露味就飘了起来。
04:12
10 seconds passed and it was gone.
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10秒后，没了。
04:14
And then I was left with these little ugly flakes on my pasta that,
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之后就只是面条上丑陋的小白碎片，
04:18
you know, their purpose had been served,
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这样，他们的任务完成了，
04:21
and so I'm afraid to say that this was also a disappointment to me.
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可对于我，这正是一大遗憾。
04:24
There were several -- several of these items were disappointments.
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还有其他的例子，都是逐一让我失望。
04:28
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
04:32
Yeah.
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是的，
04:33
The magazine wouldn't pay for me to go there.
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那家杂志社可不愿出钱让我去那。
04:35
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
04:37
They did give me a tour, though.
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但他们让我去参观了。
04:39
And this hotel suite is 4,300 square feet.
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这间酒店套房有四千三百平方尺，
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It has 360-degree views.
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有360度景观房，
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It has four balconies.
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四个阳台。
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It was designed by the architect I.M. Pei.
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由建筑师I.M.Pei设计
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It comes with its own Rolls Royce and driver.
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配备劳斯莱斯和司机。
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It comes with its own wine cellar that you can draw freely from.
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有专署酒窖，免费任你享用。
04:53
When I took the tour, it actually included some Opus One, I was glad to see.
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我参观的时候，我还高兴地见到酒窖里有“第一乐章“（一款名酒）。
04:57
30,000 dollars for a night in a hotel.
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酒店一晚房价为三万美元。
05:01
This is soap that's made from silver nanoparticles,
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这是用含银的纳米微粒制成的香皂
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which have antibacterial properties.
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有抗菌作用
05:08
I washed my face with this this morning in preparation for this.
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今天早上为准备这次演讲，我用它洗了脸
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And it, you know, tickled a little bit and it smelled good,
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有点痒，很好闻。
05:15
but I have to say that nobody here
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可我不得不说
05:17
has complimented me on the cleanliness of my face today.
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今天没有人夸过我的脸干净。
05:19
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
05:20
But then again, nobody has complimented me on the jeans I'm wearing.
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再说说我的牛仔裤，也没有人夸过。
05:26
These ones GQ did spring for -- I own these -- but I will tell you,
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我的这条是GQ杂志的春装款——我自己买的——但让我告诉你，
05:30
not only did I not get a compliment from any of you,
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不只你们没有注意到这条裤子，
05:32
I have not gotten a compliment from anybody
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迄今为止从买到穿了这么久
05:34
in the months that I have owned and worn these.
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没有任何人注意过
05:36
I don't think that whether or not you're getting a compliment
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我不认为被人夸奖与否
05:38
should be the test of something's value,
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是衡量物品价值的标准，
05:40
but I think in the case of a fashion item, an article of clothing,
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但我认为，就时尚品而言
05:43
that's a reasonable benchmark.
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那是一个合理的标准。
05:45
That said, a lot of work goes into these.
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据说，这一款做工精良。
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They are made from handpicked organic Zimbabwean cotton
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由人手挑选的津巴布韦有机棉花
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that has been shuttle loomed
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用梭织机织出
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and then hand-dipped in natural indigo 24 times.
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24次手工蘸染成自然靛青色
05:58
But no compliments.
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但是没人赞美。
05:59
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
06:00
Thank you.
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谢谢。
06:04
Armando Manni is a former filmmaker who makes this olive oil
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阿曼多.曼尼以前是一名电影制片人，
06:06
from an olive that grows on a single slope in Tuscany.
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他用托斯卡尼某处斜坡上特产的橄榄树制造了这种橄榄油
06:10
And he goes to great lengths to protect the olive oil from oxygen and light.
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而且竭尽全力将其真空避光保存。
06:15
He uses tiny bottles, the glass is tinted,
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他用有色小玻璃瓶
06:18
he tops the olive oil off with an inert gas.
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并在橄榄油上层注入气体。
06:22
And he actually -- once he releases a batch of it,
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事实上，每制成一批
06:25
he regularly conducts molecular analyses and posts the results online,
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他总是做分子分析，还把结果公布在网上
06:30
so you can go online and look at your batch number
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你可以在网上通过批号
06:32
and see how the phenolics are developing,
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看到油酚的演变
06:34
and, you know, gauge its freshness.
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并测出新鲜度
06:36
I did a blind taste test of this with 20 people and five other olive oils.
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我混和了其他五种橄榄油，和这种一起让20个人做盲测。
06:40
It tasted fine. It tasted interesting.
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这种橄榄油口味独特、有趣。
06:42
It was very green, it was very peppery.
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色泽清亮，非常辛辣。
06:44
But in the blind taste test, it came in last.
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但在盲测结果中，它排名最尾。
06:48
The olive oil that came in first was actually a bottle of
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排名最佳的橄榄油
06:51
Whole Foods 365 olive oil which had been oxidizing next to my stove
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是一瓶在我的灶台上放了六个月的
06:57
for six months.
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超市橄榄油 Whole Foods 365。
06:58
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
07:08
A recurring theme is that a lot of these things are from Japan --
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你可能会注意到
07:10
you'll start to notice.
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这个主题很多相关的东西都来自日本。
07:11
I don't play golf, so I couldn't actually road test these,
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我不打高尔夫，所以我无法实际体验，
07:14
but I did interview a guy who owns them.
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但我采访了一个拥有这套球具的人
07:16
Even the people who market these clubs -- I mean, they'll say
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我是说，即使是为这套球具做市场推广的人都会说
07:19
these have four axis shafts which minimize loss of club speed
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这套球具的四轴杆身可有效减少挥杆速度损失
07:23
and thereby drive the ball farther -- but they'll say, look, you know,
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打出的球可以更远——但是他们也会说，
07:27
you're not getting 57,000 dollars worth of performance from these clubs.
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你用这些球具不一定打得出等价于五万七千美元的表现。
07:30
You're paying for the bling,
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你只是付钱买些那些闪亮的外表，
07:32
that they're encrusted with gold and platinum.
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而那可是由黄金和铂金制成的。
07:34
The guy who I interviewed who owns them did say
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我所采访的球具主人倒是说
07:36
that he's gotten a lot of pleasure out of them, so ...
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他从中所获“乐趣“无穷，你可以想到。。。
07:40
Oh, yeah, you know this one?
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哦，你们知道这个？
07:42
This is a coffee made from a very unusual process.
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这是一种用非同寻常的方法制成的咖啡
07:48
The luwak is an Asian Palm Civet.
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鲁瓦克是亚洲小型麝香猫。
07:50
It's a cat that lives in trees,
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这种猫生活在树上，
07:52
and at night it comes down and it prowls the coffee plantations.
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夜间它会偷偷爬下树，偷吃咖啡树上的果实。
07:56
And apparently it's a very picky eater and it, you know,
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很显然，它们很挑食
07:58
hones in on only the ripest coffee cherries.
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只选那些最成熟的咖啡果。
08:02
And then an enzyme in its digestive tract leeches into the beans,
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而咖啡豆在它的消化道中可以吸取一种酶，
08:06
and people with the unenviable job of collecting these cats' leavings
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然后担任最不令人羡慕工作的人们会收集这些猫的粪便，
08:11
then go through the forest collecting the, you know, results
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挑拣收集来的“成果“，
08:16
and processing it into coffee -- although you actually can buy it
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将其加工成咖啡。
08:20
in the unprocessed form.
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虽然你也可以买没加过工的。
08:24
That's right.
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对了。
08:26
Unrelatedly --
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换个不相关的话题——
08:28
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
08:30
Japan is doing crazy things with toilets.
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日本人疯狂地搞他们的厕所。
08:33
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
08:40
There is now a toilet that has an MP3 player in it.
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这一个有MP3播放器，
08:43
There's one with a fragrance dispenser.
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这个有芳香喷雾，
08:45
There's one that actually analyzes the contents of the bowl
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这个则分析马桶里的承载物，
08:49
and transmits the results via email to your doctor.
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然后用电子邮件的方式把分析结果发给你的医生。
08:53
It's almost like a home medical center --
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几乎就是一个家庭医疗中心
08:55
and that is the direction that Japanese toilet technology is heading in.
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而这就是日本厕所科技的发展方向。
08:59
This one does not have those bells and whistles,
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这个既没铃铛也没口哨
09:01
but for pure functionality it's pretty much the best -- the Neorest 600.
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但就纯功能性而言，这个是最好的-鼎新600
09:05
And to try this -- I couldn't get a loaner,
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因为没人愿意借我马桶，为了体验这个，
09:08
but I did go into the Manhattan showroom of the manufacturer, Toto,
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我只好去了Toto位于曼哈顿的展览室。
09:13
and they have a bathroom off of the showroom that you can use, which I used.
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展厅旁就有一个厕所，你可以使用。我试过了
09:17
It's fully automated -- you walk towards it, and the seat lifts.
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它是全自动的-你走过去，坐垫就升起来
09:20
The seat is preheated.
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坐垫是预热的，
09:22
There's a water jet that cleans you.
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有水喷出来帮你洗干净，
09:24
There's an air jet that dries you.
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再有空气把你吹干
09:26
You get up, it flushes by itself.
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你起身，它就自动冲水。
09:28
The lid closes, it self-cleans.
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盖子合上，它就自动清洁。
09:30
Not only is it a technological leap forward,
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这不只是技术的进步，
09:32
but I really do believe it's a bit of a cultural leap forward.
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我真觉得在文明程度上都是领先的
09:34
I mean, a no hands, no toilet paper toilet.
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我是指，不用手，不用厕纸
09:37
And I want to get one of these.
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我想要一个
09:39
(Laughter)
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笑声
09:43
This was another one I could not get a loaner of.
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这是另一个我借不到的。
09:48
Tom Cruise supposedly owns this bed.
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汤姆·克鲁斯就该有这样一张床
09:50
There's a little plaque on the end that, you know,
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床尾有个小匾
09:52
each buyer gets their name engraved on it.
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买家可以把自己的名字刻上去。
09:55
(Laughter)
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笑声
10:01
To try this one, the maker of it let me and my wife
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为了试这个，制造者让我和我妻子
10:03
spend the night in the Manhattan showroom.
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在曼哈顿的展览室待了一晚上
10:05
Lights glaring in off the street,
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街上灯火通明
10:07
and we had to hire a security guard and all these things.
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我们不得不雇个保安
10:10
But anyway, we had a great night's sleep.
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可不管怎么说，我们那晚睡得很好
10:12
And you spend a third of your life in bed.
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而人的一生有三分之一的时间在床上
10:14
I don't think it's that bad of a deal.
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我觉得这床还比较值
10:17
(Laughter)
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笑声
10:18
This was a fun one.
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这个很搞笑
10:20
This is the fastest street-legal car in the world
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这是全世界最快的可以合法在街上开的车，
10:24
and the most expensive production car.
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也是最贵的量产车。
10:26
I got to drive this with a chaperone from the company,
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我得和该公司的试车员一起试驾，
10:28
a professional race car driver,
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他是职业赛车手，
10:30
and we drove around the canyons outside of Los Angeles
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我们在洛杉矶外的峡谷中驾驶，
10:33
and down on the Pacific Coast Highway.
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又上了太平洋海岸高速公路。
10:35
And, you know, when we pulled up to a stoplight
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你知道吗，当我们在红灯前停下时，
10:38
the people in the adjacent cars kind of gave us respectful nods.
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附近车里的人对我们佩服得直点头。
10:42
And it was really amazing.
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实在太棒了。
10:44
It was such a smooth ride.
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如此流畅，
10:46
Most of the cars that I drive, if I get up to 80 they start to rattle.
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我所开过的车大都在加速到80唛时就吱嘎作响
10:48
I switched lanes on the highway and the driver, this chaperone, said,
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我在高速公路上换道时，陪驾车手说
10:51
"You know, you were just going 110 miles an hour."
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“你知道吗？你刚转到110唛每小时“
10:53
And I had no idea that I was one of those obnoxious people
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我自己都不知道我成了那种讨厌的人，
10:56
you occasionally see weaving in and out of traffic,
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在车河中钻进钻出，
10:58
because it was just that smooth.
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因为这车实在太顺手了。
11:00
And if I was a billionaire, I would get one.
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如果我是亿万富翁，我一定买一辆
11:02
(Laughter)
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笑声
11:07
This is a completely gratuitous video I'm just going to show
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我现在要播放一段纯属意外录下的
11:10
of one of the pitfalls of advanced technology.
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关于高科技弊端的影片。
11:12
This is Tom Cruise arriving at the "Mission: Impossible III" premiere.
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汤姆·克鲁斯到达"不可能的任务3"首映现场。
11:25
When he tries to open the door,
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他开门时
11:27
you could call it "Mission: Impossible IV."
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上演了一场"不可能的任务4"。
11:32
There was one object that I could not get my hands on,
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这瓶1947年产Cheval Blanc
11:34
and that was the 1947 Cheval Blanc.
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是我可望而不可及的
11:36
The '47 Cheval Blanc is probably the most mythologized wine of the 20th century.
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这是20世纪最具传奇的葡萄酒
11:40
And Cheval Blanc is kind of an unusual wine for Bordeaux
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它是极不寻常的波尔多红酒
11:43
in having a significant percentage of the Cabernet Franc grape.
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主要用品丽珠葡萄酿成
11:47
And 1947 was a legendary vintage,
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1947是波尔多右岸地区
11:50
especially in the right bank of Bordeaux.
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红酒具有传奇色彩的年份
11:52
And just together, that vintage and that chateau took on this aura
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加上白马庄园， 两者的光环
11:56
that eventually kind of gave it this cultish following.
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最终引来一批崇拜者
12:00
But it's 60 years old.
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但这种酒有60年了
12:02
There's not much of it left.
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也所剩无几。
12:04
What there is of it left you don't know if it's real --
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即便留下来，也难以辨别是真是假。
12:06
it's considered to be the most faked wine in the world.
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他被公认为世上造假率最高的酒。
12:08
Not that many people are looking to pop open
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没有人愿意为一个记者
12:10
their one remaining bottle for a journalist.
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打开自己珍藏的所剩无几的美酒。
12:14
So, I'd about given up trying to get my hands on one of these.
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我打算放弃试这酒的念头，
12:18
I'd put out feelers to retailers, to auctioneers,
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因为零售商，拍卖商那我都试过了，
12:20
and it was coming up empty.
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全部落空。
12:22
And then I got an email from a guy named Bipin Desai.
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之后，我收到一封来自Bipin Desai的电子邮件。
12:24
Bipin Desai is a U.C. Riverside theoretical physicist
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Bipin Desai是加州大学河岸分校的理论物理学家
12:28
who also happens to be the preeminent organizer of rare wine tastings,
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他碰巧也是了不起的稀有品酒会的组织人，
12:32
and he said, "I've got a tasting coming up
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他说：“我要办个品酒会，
12:34
where we're going to serve the '47 Cheval Blanc."
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可以尝到47年的Cheval Blanc，
12:36
And it was going to be a double vertical --
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而且还不止于此，
12:38
it was going to be 30 vintages of Cheval Blanc,
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届时会有30种其他年份的Cheval Blanc，
12:41
and 30 vintages of Yquem.
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以及30种年份的Yquem.
12:43
And it was an invitation you do not refuse.
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这实在太吸引人了。
12:46
I went.
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我去了
12:48
It was three days, four meals.
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3天，4顿大餐。
12:50
And at lunch on Saturday, we opened the '47.
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在那个周六的午餐时，我们打开了47年的Cheval Blanc。
12:53
And you know, it had this fragrant softness,
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它香气柔和，
12:57
and it smelled a little bit of linseed oil.
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闻起来有点像亚麻子油。
13:00
And then I tasted it, and it,
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然后我尝了酒，
13:02
you know, had this kind of unctuous, porty richness,
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酒的口感丰富，如同带油的甜葡萄酒。
13:06
which is characteristic of that wine --
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这就是其特质
13:08
that it sort of resembles port in a lot of ways.
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很多方面类似葡萄牙甜葡萄酒
13:10
There were people at my table who thought it was, you know, fantastic.
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席间，有人大加赞誉
13:12
There were some people who were a little less impressed.
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有人不以为然
13:16
And I wasn't that impressed.
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我也不觉有太惊人之处
13:19
And I don't -- call my palate a philistine palate --
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我是大众口味型
13:23
so it doesn't necessarily mean something that I wasn't impressed,
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并非我不识货
13:27
but I was not the only one there who had that reaction.
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而且也不只我一人有此反映
13:30
And it wasn't just to that wine.
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也不只针对那种酒
13:32
Any one of the wines served at this tasting,
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那天品的所有酒都一般
13:34
if I'd been served it at a dinner party, it would have been, you know,
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如果我在某次晚宴上喝到这种酒，
13:37
the wine experience of my lifetime, and incredibly memorable.
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我一生都会回味无穷。
13:40
But drinking 60 great wines over three days,
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但在3天里尝遍60种顶级红酒
13:43
they all just blurred together,
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口味就全混了
13:45
and it became almost a grueling experience.
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而且还成了一种受罪。
13:49
And I just wanted to finish by mentioning a very interesting study
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我打算以一个有趣的研究作为结尾
13:53
which came out earlier this year from some researchers at Stanford and Caltech.
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这是年初由斯坦福和加州工学院的研究人员发表的
13:57
And they gave subjects the same wine,
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他们在相同的红酒上
14:01
labeled with different price tags.
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挂了不同的标价
14:03
A lot of people, you know,
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如你所知，很多人
14:05
said that they liked the more expensive wine more --
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说他们喜欢标价较贵的酒
14:08
it was the same wine, but they thought it was a different one
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酒其实都一样，
14:10
that was more expensive.
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只是他们不知道。
14:12
But what was unexpected was that these researchers did
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但意想不到的是这些研究人员
14:14
MRI brain imaging while the people were drinking the wine,
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在研究对象喝酒时对他们进行了脑部核磁共挣扫描
14:17
and not only did they say they enjoyed the more expensively labeled wine more --
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他们不只是说更喜欢较贵的酒
14:21
their brain actually registered as experiencing more pleasure
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他们的大脑也显示更快乐
14:25
from the same wine when it was labeled with a higher price tag.
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一样的酒，只是标价更高。
14:28
Thank you.
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谢谢。
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Benjamin Wallace - AuthorBenjamin Wallace is a journalist and author of The Billionaire's Vinegar, the true story of the world's most expensive bottle of (possibly phony?) wine. He's been a contributor to GQ, Details, Salon and The Washington Post.
Why you should listen
A Washington D.C. native and a current Brooklynite, Benjamin Wallace is fast establishing himself a master of the brainy nonfiction thriller, rooting up feuds and controversies in pop and less-than-pop culture while buddying up with their embattled and larger-than-life personalities (whom he sometimes meets on their way down). He profiled conserative mouthpiece Glenn Beck for GQ in 2007 shortly after the pundit landed a controversial slot on CNN, and in 2002 looked at chef Georges Perrier of Philidelphia's then-five-star restaurant, Le Bec-Fin.
Wallace's orderly, deadpan writing style hints at one of his secrets: his love (and talent) for playing the straight man to the once-mighty in downfall, right as they go aflame in tragicomic hubris. (The Billionaire's Vinegar is simply a pleasure, not least to schadenfreude junkies.) It's easy to imagine him, the bespectacled wallflower, watching as brouhaha over a wine bottle once valued at $165,000 -- the highest price fetched for a bottle, ever -- culimates in a court trial that reveals at least two of its main characters, a wine collector and a wine expert, to be frauds. Or at least emperors with no clothes.
Benjamin Wallace | Speaker | TED.com