TED2004
Malcolm Gladwell: Choice, happiness and spaghetti sauce
Malcolm Gladwell habla sobre la salsa de espagueti
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El autor de "La clave del éxito", Malcolm Gladwell, se interna en la búsqueda de la industria de los alimentos para encontrar la salsa de espagueti perfecta y plantea un tema más importante sobre la naturaleza de la elección y la felicidad.
Malcolm Gladwell - Writer
Detective of fads and emerging subcultures, chronicler of jobs-you-never-knew-existed, Malcolm Gladwell's work is toppling the popular understanding of bias, crime, food, marketing, race, consumers and intelligence. Full bio
Detective of fads and emerging subcultures, chronicler of jobs-you-never-knew-existed, Malcolm Gladwell's work is toppling the popular understanding of bias, crime, food, marketing, race, consumers and intelligence. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
Se suponía que iba a hablar de mi nuevo libro
00:25
I think I was supposed
to talk about my new book,
to talk about my new book,
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00:27
which is called "Blink,"
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que se llama "Blink", y que trata sobre opiniones instantáneas y primeras impresiones.
00:29
and it's about snap judgments
and first impressions.
and first impressions.
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00:32
And it comes out in January,
and I hope you all buy it in triplicate.
and I hope you all buy it in triplicate.
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Y que sale en enero, y que espero que todos ustedes compren por triplicado.
00:36
(Laughter)
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Pero estaba pensando sobre esto
00:38
But I was thinking about this,
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00:39
and I realized that although
my new book makes me happy,
my new book makes me happy,
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y me he dado cuenta que aunque mi nuevo libro me hace feliz,
y creo que haría feliz a mi madre,
00:44
and I think would make my mother happy,
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00:46
it's not really about happiness.
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no trata realmente sobre la felicidad.
Así que decidí que en cambio hablaría sobre alguien que
00:49
So I decided instead,
I would talk about someone
I would talk about someone
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00:52
who I think has done as much
to make Americans happy
to make Americans happy
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creo que ha hecho más por hacer felices a los estadounidenses
que probablemente nadie en los últimos 20 años.
00:56
as perhaps anyone over the last 20 years,
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00:59
a man who is a great
personal hero of mine:
personal hero of mine:
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Un hombre que es un gran héroe personal para mí.
01:02
someone by the name of Howard Moskowitz,
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Alguien llamado Howard Moskowitz,
01:05
who is most famous
for reinventing spaghetti sauce.
for reinventing spaghetti sauce.
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quien es famoso por reinventar la salsa de espagueti.
Howard es como de esta altura y es redondo
01:10
Howard's about this high, and he's round,
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01:14
and he's in his 60s,
and he has big huge glasses
and he has big huge glasses
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y tiene sesenta y tantos años y tiene unas gafas enormes
y un pelo gris escaso y tiene una especie de maravillosa exuberancia y vitalidad
01:19
and thinning gray hair,
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01:21
and he has a kind of wonderful
exuberance and vitality,
exuberance and vitality,
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y tiene un loro y le encanta la opera
01:25
and he has a parrot,
and he loves the opera,
and he loves the opera,
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01:28
and he's a great aficionado
of medieval history.
of medieval history.
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y es un gran aficionado a la historia medieval.
Y de profesión es psicofísico.
01:33
And by profession, he's a psychophysicist.
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01:35
Now, I should tell you that I have no idea
what psychophysics is,
what psychophysics is,
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Ahora, debería decirles que no tenga ni idea de que es la psicofísica
aunque en algún momento de mi vida salí dos años con una chica que
01:40
although at some point in my life,
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01:42
I dated a girl for two years
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01:43
who was getting
her doctorate in psychophysics.
her doctorate in psychophysics.
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estaba obteniendo un doctorado en psicofísica.
01:45
Which should tell you something
about that relationship.
about that relationship.
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Lo cual debería decirles algo sobre aquella relación. (Risas)
01:49
(Laughter)
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01:51
As far as I know, psychophysics
is about measuring things.
is about measuring things.
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Hasta donde sé, la psicofísica trata sobre medir cosas.
01:54
And Howard is very interested
in measuring things.
in measuring things.
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Y Howard tiene un gran interés en medir cosas.
Y se graduó con su doctorado de Harvard
01:57
And he graduated
with his doctorate from Harvard,
with his doctorate from Harvard,
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y puso una pequeña consultora en White Plains, Nueva York.
01:59
and he set up a little consulting shop
in White Plains, New York.
in White Plains, New York.
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Y uno de sus primeros clientes fue -- esto fue hace muchos años atrás, a principio de los 70 --
02:03
And one of his first clients was Pepsi.
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02:06
This is many years ago,
back in the early 70s.
back in the early 70s.
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uno de sus primeros clientes fue Pepsi.
Y de Pepsi fueron a ver a Howard y le dijeron:
02:10
And Pepsi came to Howard and they said,
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"Sabes, hay una cosa nueva llamada aspartamo,
02:12
"You know, there's this new
thing called aspartame,
thing called aspartame,
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y nos gustaría hacer Pepsi Diet.
02:14
and we would like to make Diet Pepsi.
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02:16
We'd like you to figure out
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Nos gustaría saber cuanto aspartamo deberíamos poner en
02:18
how much aspartame we should put
in each can of Diet Pepsi
in each can of Diet Pepsi
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cada lata de Pepsi Diet, para tener la bebida perfecta." ¿Bien?
02:22
in order to have the perfect drink."
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02:24
Now that sounds like an incredibly
straightforward question to answer,
straightforward question to answer,
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Esto suena como una pregunta increíblemente sencilla de responder,
02:28
and that's what Howard thought.
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y eso fue lo que Howard pensó. Porque Pepsi le dijo,
02:30
Because Pepsi told him,
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"Mira, estamos trabajando con una franja de entre el 8 y el 12 por ciento.
02:31
"We're working with a band
between eight and 12 percent.
between eight and 12 percent.
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Cualquier cosa por debajo del 8 por ciento de dulzura no es suficientemente dulce,
02:34
Anything below eight percent
sweetness is not sweet enough;
sweetness is not sweet enough;
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cualquier cosa por encima del 12 por ciento es demasiado dulce.
02:37
anything above 12 percent
sweetness is too sweet.
sweetness is too sweet.
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02:40
We want to know: what's the sweet
spot between 8 and 12?"
spot between 8 and 12?"
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Queremos saber, ¿cuál es el punto exacto de dulzura entre 8 y 12?"
02:44
Now, if I gave you this problem to do,
you would all say, it's very simple.
you would all say, it's very simple.
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Ahora, si les doy este problema a resolver, todos ustedes dirían que es muy fácil.
Lo que hacemos es que hacemos una gran muestra experimental de Pepsi
02:48
What we do is you make up
a big experimental batch of Pepsi,
a big experimental batch of Pepsi,
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02:51
at every degree of sweetness --
eight percent, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3,
eight percent, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3,
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para cada grado de dulzura -- 8 por ciento, 8,1, 8,2, 8,3,
así hasta 12 -- y lo probamos con miles de personas
02:56
all the way up to 12 --
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02:57
and we try this out
with thousands of people,
with thousands of people,
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y trazamos los resultados en una curva
03:00
and we plot the results on a curve,
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03:02
and we take the most popular
concentration, right?
concentration, right?
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y tomamos la concentración más popular. ¿Correcto? Realmente simple.
03:05
Really simple.
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03:06
Howard does the experiment,
and he gets the data back,
and he gets the data back,
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Howard hace el experimento, y obtiene los datos y los traza en una curva
03:09
and he plots it on a curve,
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y de pronto se da cuenta que no es una bonita curva de campana.
03:10
and all of a sudden he realizes
it's not a nice bell curve.
it's not a nice bell curve.
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03:13
In fact, the data doesn't make any sense.
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De hecho, los datos no tienen sentido.
Es un desastre. Está todo enredado.
03:15
It's a mess. It's all over the place.
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03:17
Now, most people in that business,
in the world of testing food and such,
in the world of testing food and such,
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Ahora bien, la mayoría de la gente en este negocio, en el mundo de las pruebas de alimentos y demás,
03:22
are not dismayed
when the data comes back a mess.
when the data comes back a mess.
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no se preocupan cuando los datos resultan enredados.
03:25
They think, "Well, you know,
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Piensan, bien, sabes qué, entender lo que la gente piensa sobre los refrescos de cola no es tan simple.
03:26
figuring out what people think
about cola's not that easy."
about cola's not that easy."
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03:29
"You know, maybe we made an error
somewhere along the way."
somewhere along the way."
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Sabes, a lo mejor cometimos algún error durante el proceso.
Sabes qué, mejor hagamos una suposición,
03:32
"You know, let's just
make an educated guess,"
make an educated guess,"
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03:34
and they simply point
and they go for 10 percent,
and they go for 10 percent,
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y simplemente apuntan y se van por el 10 por ciento, justo en el medio.
03:37
right in the middle.
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03:38
Howard is not so easily placated.
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Howard no es tan fácil de convencer.
03:40
Howard is a man of a certain degree
of intellectual standards.
of intellectual standards.
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Howard es un hombre con un nivel particular de principios intelectuales.
03:43
And this was not good enough for him,
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Y esto no era suficientemente bueno para él
03:45
and this question bedeviled him for years.
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así que esta pregunta lo torturó durante años.
Y le daba vueltas y decía, ¿qué estaba mal?
03:48
And he would think it through
and say, "What was wrong?
and say, "What was wrong?
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03:50
Why could we not make sense
of this experiment with Diet Pepsi?"
of this experiment with Diet Pepsi?"
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¿Por qué no tiene sentido este experimento con Pepsi Diet?
Y un día, estaba sentado en una cafetería en White Plains
03:55
And one day, he was sitting
in a diner in White Plains,
in a diner in White Plains,
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about to go trying to dream up
some work for Nescafé.
some work for Nescafé.
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tratando de sacar alguna idea para un trabajo para Nescafe.
Y de repente, como un rayo, la respuesta vino a él.
04:01
And suddenly, like a bolt of lightning,
the answer came to him.
the answer came to him.
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Y esta era que cuando analizaron los datos de Pepsi Diet
04:04
And that is, that when they analyzed
the Diet Pepsi data,
the Diet Pepsi data,
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04:07
they were asking the wrong question.
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estaban haciendo la pregunta equivocada.
04:09
They were looking for the perfect Pepsi,
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Estaban buscando la Pepsi perfecta
04:11
and they should have been
looking for the perfect Pepsis.
looking for the perfect Pepsis.
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y deberían haber estado buscando las Pepsis perfectas. Confíen en mí.
04:15
Trust me.
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04:16
This was an enormous revelation.
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Esto fue una revelación formidable.
04:18
This was one of the most brilliant
breakthroughs in all of food science.
breakthroughs in all of food science.
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Esto fue uno de los más brillantes descubrimientos en toda la ciencia de los alimentos.
Y Howard en seguida se fue de gira
04:22
Howard immediately went on the road,
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e iba a conferencias alrededor del país
04:24
and he would go to conferences
around the country,
around the country,
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y se ponía de pie y decía:
04:26
and he would stand up and say,
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"Han estado buscando la Pepsi perfecta. Están equivocados.
04:28
"You had been looking
for the perfect Pepsi.
for the perfect Pepsi.
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04:30
You're wrong.
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04:31
You should be looking
for the perfect Pepsis."
for the perfect Pepsis."
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Deberían haber estado buscando las Pepsis perfectas."
04:34
And people would look at him
blankly and say,
blankly and say,
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Y la gente lo miraba con incomprensión y decían:
"¿De qué estás hablando? Esto es una locura."
04:37
"What are you talking about? Craziness."
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Y decían, tu sabes: "¡Fuera de aquí! ¡Siguiente!"
04:39
And they would say, "Move! Next!"
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04:40
Tried to get business,
nobody would hire him --
nobody would hire him --
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Intentaba conseguir proyectos y nadie lo contrataba -- pero estaba obsesionado
04:43
he was obsessed, though,
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y hablaba sobre ello, y hablaba y hablaba.
04:44
and he talked about it
and talked about it.
and talked about it.
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04:46
Howard loves the Yiddish expression
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A Howard le encanta la expresión judía
"para un gusano en un rábano, el mundo es un rábano."
04:48
"To a worm in horseradish,
the world is horseradish."
the world is horseradish."
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Éste era su rábano. (Risas) ¡Estaba obsesionado con esto!
04:51
This was his horseradish.
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04:52
(Laughter)
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04:54
He was obsessed with it!
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04:56
And finally, he had a breakthrough.
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Y finalmente, tuvo un avance. Fueron a verlo de Pepinillos Vlasic
04:59
Vlasic Pickles came to him,
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05:01
and they said, "Doctor Moskowitz,
we want to make the perfect pickle."
we want to make the perfect pickle."
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y dijeron, "Señor Moskowitz -- Doctor Moskowitz --
queremos hacer el pepinillo perfecto." Y él dijo:
05:06
And he said,
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"No existe el pepinillo perfecto, sólo existen los pepinillos perfectos."
05:07
"There is no perfect pickle;
there are only perfect pickles."
there are only perfect pickles."
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Y fue a verlos de nuevo y les dijo: "No sólo necesitan mejorar el pepinillo normal,
05:11
And he came back to them and he said,
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05:12
"You don't just need
to improve your regular;
to improve your regular;
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necesitan crear uno picante."
05:15
you need to create zesty."
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05:16
And that's where we got zesty pickles.
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Y de ahí fue de donde obtuvimos los pepinillos picantes.
05:19
Then the next person came to him:
Campbell's Soup.
Campbell's Soup.
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Entonces la siguiente persona vino a verle, y fue Sopas Campbell's.
05:21
And this was even more important.
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Y esto fue aun más importante. De hecho,
Sopas Campbell's es donde Howard forjó su reputación.
05:23
In fact, Campbell's Soup
is where Howard made his reputation.
is where Howard made his reputation.
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05:27
Campbell's made Prego,
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Campbell's producía Prego, y Prego, a principios de los 80s, perdía mercado frente a Ragú,
05:28
and Prego, in the early 80s,
was struggling next to Ragù,
was struggling next to Ragù,
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05:32
which was the dominant
spaghetti sauce of the 70s and 80s.
spaghetti sauce of the 70s and 80s.
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que era la salsa de espagueti dominante en los 70s y en los 80s.
Ahora, en la industria, no sé si esto les interesa
05:36
In the industry -- I don't
know whether you care about this,
know whether you care about this,
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o cuanto tiempo tengo para profundizar en esto.
05:39
or how much time I have to go into this.
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Pero técnicamente hablando -- esto es un tema aparte --
05:41
But it was, technically speaking
-- this is an aside --
-- this is an aside --
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Prego es mejor salsa de tomate que Ragú.
05:43
Prego is a better tomato sauce than Ragù.
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La calidad del tomate es mucho mejor, la mezcla de especias es muy superior,
05:45
The quality of the tomato paste
is much better;
is much better;
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05:48
the spice mix is far superior;
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se adhiere a la pasta de una manera más satisfactoria. De hecho,
05:50
it adheres to the pasta
in a much more pleasing way.
in a much more pleasing way.
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05:52
In fact, they would do
the famous bowl test
the famous bowl test
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ya en los 70s llevaban a cabo la famosa prueba del plato hondo entre Ragú y Prego.
05:54
back in the 70s with Ragù and Prego.
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05:57
You'd have a plate of spaghetti,
and you would pour it on, right?
and you would pour it on, right?
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Tenían un plato de espagueti y la vertían encima, ¿de acuerdo?
Y la Ragú se iba toda al fondo, y la Prego se mantenía encima.
06:01
And the Ragù would all go to the bottom,
and the Prego would sit on top.
and the Prego would sit on top.
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Esto se denomina "adherencia."
06:05
That's called "adherence."
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06:07
And, anyway, despite the fact
that they were far superior in adherence,
that they were far superior in adherence,
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Y, de todas modos, a pesar del hecho de que eran superiores en adherencia
y de la calidad de su pasta de tomate, Prego estaba en problemas.
06:12
and the quality of their tomato paste,
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06:14
Prego was struggling.
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06:16
So they came to Howard,
and they said, fix us.
and they said, fix us.
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Así que fueron a ver a Howard, y le dijeron, arréglanos.
06:19
And Howard looked
at their product line, and he said,
at their product line, and he said,
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Y Howard miró en su linea de productos, y dijo:
"Lo que tienen es una sociedad de tomate muertos".
06:22
what you have is a dead tomato society.
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Así que dijo: "Esto es lo que quiero hacer".
06:25
So he said, this is what I want to do.
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Y se metió en la cocina de sopas de Campbell's,
06:28
And he got together
with the Campbell's soup kitchen,
with the Campbell's soup kitchen,
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y elaboró 45 variedades de salsa de espagueti. Y las varió
06:30
and he made 45 varieties
of spaghetti sauce.
of spaghetti sauce.
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06:34
And he varied them according
to every conceivable way
to every conceivable way
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de todas las formas imaginables en las que puedes variar la salsa de tomate.
06:37
that you can vary tomato sauce:
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06:38
by sweetness, by level of garlic,
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Por dulzura, por nivel de ajo, por acidez, por lo agrio, por "tomatosidad",
06:40
by tomatoey-ness,
by tartness, by sourness,
by tartness, by sourness,
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por los sólidos visibles -- mi término favorito en el negocio de la salsa de espagueti. (Risas)
06:43
by visible solids --
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06:45
my favorite term
in the spaghetti sauce business.
in the spaghetti sauce business.
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06:48
(Laughter)
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06:49
Every conceivable way
you can vary spaghetti sauce,
you can vary spaghetti sauce,
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De cualquier forma imaginable en la que puedas variar la salsa de espagueti, él la varió.
06:53
he varied spaghetti sauce.
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Y cogió la colección entera de 45 salsas de espagueti, y se fue de gira.
06:54
And then he took this whole raft
of 45 spaghetti sauces,
of 45 spaghetti sauces,
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06:58
and he went on the road.
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Fue a Nueva York, fue a Chicago, fue a Jacksonville,
06:59
He went to New York, to Chicago,
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fue a Los Ángeles. Y trajo gente por montones. A grandes salones.
07:01
he went to Jacksonville, to Los Angeles.
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07:03
And he brought in people
by the truckload into big halls.
by the truckload into big halls.
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07:07
And he sat them down for two hours,
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Y los sentó durante dos horas y les dio,
07:09
and over the course of that two hours,
he gave them ten bowls.
he gave them ten bowls.
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durante el transcurso de esas dos horas, diez boles.
07:12
Ten small bowls of pasta,
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Diez pequeños boles de pasta, con una salsa de espagueti diferente en cada uno.
07:13
with a different spaghetti
sauce on each one.
sauce on each one.
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Y después de que comían cada bol tenían que puntuarlo, de 0 a 100,
07:16
And after they ate each bowl,
they had to rate, from 0 to 100,
they had to rate, from 0 to 100,
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por cuán buena creían que era la salsa de espagueti.
07:21
how good they thought
the spaghetti sauce was.
the spaghetti sauce was.
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Y al final de ese proceso, después de hacerlo durante meses y meses,
07:24
At the end of that process,
after doing it for months and months,
after doing it for months and months,
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tenía una montaña de datos acerca de
07:27
he had a mountain of data
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cómo el pueblo norteamericano se sentía respecto a la salsa de espagueti.
07:28
about how the American people
feel about spaghetti sauce.
feel about spaghetti sauce.
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07:32
And then he analyzed the data.
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Y entonces analizó los datos.
07:34
Did he look for the most popular
variety of spaghetti sauce?
variety of spaghetti sauce?
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Entonces, ¿buscó la variedad más popular de salsa de espagueti? ¡No!
07:38
No! Howard doesn't believe
that there is such a thing.
that there is such a thing.
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Howard no cree que exista tal cosa.
En cambio, miró los datos y dijo
07:41
Instead, he looked
at the data, and he said,
at the data, and he said,
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"Veamos si podemos agrupar estos diferentes datos en conjuntos.
07:43
let's see if we can group all these
different data points into clusters.
different data points into clusters.
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07:48
Let's see if they congregate
around certain ideas.
around certain ideas.
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Veamos si confluyen alrededor de ciertas ideas.
07:51
And sure enough, if you sit down,
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Y si te sientas, y analizas todos estos datos sobre la salsa de espagueti
07:54
and you analyze all this data
on spaghetti sauce,
on spaghetti sauce,
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07:57
you realize that all Americans
fall into one of three groups.
fall into one of three groups.
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te das cuenta que efectivamente todos los norteamericanos pertenecen a uno de tres grupos.
Hay gente a la que le gusta su salsa de espagueti normal,
08:01
There are people
who like their spaghetti sauce plain;
who like their spaghetti sauce plain;
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hay gente que a la que le gusta su salsa de espagueti picante
08:04
there are people
who like their spaghetti sauce spicy;
who like their spaghetti sauce spicy;
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08:06
and there are people
who like it extra chunky.
who like it extra chunky.
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y hay gente a la que le gusta con trocitos extra.
08:09
And of those three facts,
the third one was the most significant,
the third one was the most significant,
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Y de esos 3 hechos, el tercero fue el más significativo.
08:13
because at the time, in the early 1980s,
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Porque en aquel tiempo, a principios de los 80s,
si ibas a un supermercado
08:16
if you went to a supermarket,
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no encontrabas salsa de espagueti con trocitos extra.
08:18
you would not find
extra-chunky spaghetti sauce.
extra-chunky spaghetti sauce.
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08:21
And Prego turned to Howard, and they said,
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Y en Prego miraron a Howard, y le dijeron,
"¿Nos está diciendo que uno de cada tres norteamericanos se mueren por la salsa de espagueti con trocitos extra
08:23
"You're telling me
that one third of Americans
that one third of Americans
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08:26
crave extra-chunky spaghetti sauce
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08:29
and yet no one is servicing their needs?"
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y que todavía no hay nadie atendiendo sus necesidades?" Y él dijo ¡Sí! (Risas)
08:32
And he said "Yes!"
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08:33
(Laughter)
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Y entonces Prego volvió sobre sus pasos
08:34
And Prego then went back,
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y reformuló completamente la salsa de espagueti
08:36
and completely reformulated
their spaghetti sauce,
their spaghetti sauce,
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y sacaron una línea con trocitos extra que inmediata y completamente
08:38
and came out with a line of extra chunky
that immediately and completely
that immediately and completely
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se apoderó del negocio de la salsa de espagueti en este país.
08:42
took over the spaghetti sauce
business in this country.
business in this country.
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Y durante los siguientes 10 años, hicieron 600 millones de dólares
08:45
And over the next 10 years,
they made 600 million dollars
they made 600 million dollars
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con su línea de salsas con trocitos extra.
08:49
off their line of extra-chunky sauces.
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08:52
Everyone else in the industry looked
at Howard had done, and they said,
at Howard had done, and they said,
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Y todos en la industria vieron lo que Howard había hecho y dijeron:
"¡Oh, dios mío! ¡Hemos estado haciendo todo mal!"
08:56
"Oh my god! We've been
thinking all wrong!"
thinking all wrong!"
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08:58
And that's when you started to get
seven different kinds of vinegar,
seven different kinds of vinegar,
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Y así es como empezaron a aparecer siete clases diferentes de vinagre
y 14 clases diferentes de mostaza y 71 clases diferentes de aceite de oliva,
09:02
and 14 different kinds of mustard,
and 71 different kinds of olive oil.
and 71 different kinds of olive oil.
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y al final incluso Ragú contrató a Howard
09:07
And then eventually
even Ragù hired Howard,
even Ragù hired Howard,
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09:10
and Howard did the exact same thing
for Ragù that he did for Prego.
for Ragù that he did for Prego.
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y Howard hizo para Ragú exactamente lo mismo que había hecho para Prego.
Y hoy en día si vas a un supermercado, uno realmente bueno,
09:14
And today, if you go
to a really good supermarket,
to a really good supermarket,
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y miras cuantas Ragús hay,
09:16
do you know how many Ragùs there are?
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¿Saben cuántas hay? ¡36!
09:18
36!
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09:20
In six varieties:
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En seis variedades: Queso, Light, Robusto,
09:22
Cheese, Light,
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09:25
Robusto, Rich & Hearty,
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Rico y Abundante, Viejo Mundo Tradicional, De jardín con trocitos extra. (Risas)
09:28
Old World Traditional --
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09:32
Extra-Chunky Garden.
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09:34
(Laughter)
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09:35
That's Howard's doing.
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Esto es lo que Howard logró. Esto es el regalo de Howard a los estadounidenses.
09:37
That is Howard's gift
to the American people.
to the American people.
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09:39
Now why is that important?
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Y bien, ¿por qué es esto importante?
09:41
(Laughter)
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09:43
It is, in fact, enormously important.
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Es, de hecho, tremendamente importante. Les explicaré por qué.
09:45
I'll explain to you why.
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09:47
What Howard did is he fundamentally
changed the way the food industry thinks
changed the way the food industry thinks
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Lo que Howard hizo es cambiar fundamentalmente la manera en que la industria de los alimentos piensa
acerca de cómo hacerles felices.
09:51
about making you happy.
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09:53
Assumption number one
in the food industry used to be
in the food industry used to be
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La primera suposición de la industria de los alimentos solía ser
09:56
that the way to find out
what people want to eat,
what people want to eat,
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que la forma de averiguar lo que la gente quiere comer --
09:59
what will make people happy,
is to ask them.
is to ask them.
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lo que haría feliz a la gente -- es preguntarles a ellos.
10:02
And for years and years and years,
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Y durante años y años y años y años, Ragú y Prego tuvieron
10:04
Ragù and Prego would have focus groups,
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grupos focales donde sentaban a toda la gente y les decían:
10:06
and they would sit you down,
and they would say,
and they would say,
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"¿Qué quieren en la salsa de espagueti? Dígannos que quieren en la salsa de espagueti."
10:08
"What do you want in a spaghetti sauce?
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10:10
Tell us what you want
in a spaghetti sauce."
in a spaghetti sauce."
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Y durante todos esos años -- 20, 30 años --
10:12
And for all those years -- 20, 30 years --
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10:15
through all those focus group sessions,
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591000
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a lo largo de todas aquellas sesiones de grupo,
10:17
no one ever said they wanted extra-chunky.
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nadie nunca dijo que querían con trocitos extra.
10:21
Even though at least a third of them,
deep in their hearts, actually did.
deep in their hearts, actually did.
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Incluso cuando al menos un tercio de ellos, en el fondo de sus corazones, en realidad sí los querían.
(Risas)
10:25
(Laughter)
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10:27
People don't know what they want!
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¡La gente no sabe lo que quiere! ¿No es cierto?
10:29
As Howard loves to say,
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Como Howard adora decir: "La mente no sabe lo que la lengua quiere".
10:31
"The mind knows not
what the tongue wants."
what the tongue wants."
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¡Es un misterio!
10:33
It's a mystery!
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10:34
(Laughter)
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Y un paso críticamente importante para entender nuestros propios deseos
10:35
And a critically important step
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10:38
in understanding
our own desires and tastes
our own desires and tastes
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y gustos es darnos cuenta que no siempre podemos explicar que es lo que en el fondo queremos.
10:41
is to realize that we cannot always
explain what we want, deep down.
explain what we want, deep down.
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Si les hubiera preguntado a todos ustedes, por ejemplo en esta sala, qué es lo que quieren en un café,
10:46
If I asked all of you, for example,
in this room, what you want in a coffee,
in this room, what you want in a coffee,
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¿saben que habrían dicho? Todos y cada uno de ustedes habrían dicho "Quiero un tostado oscuro, rico y generoso."
10:50
you know what you'd say?
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10:51
Every one of you would say,
"I want a dark, rich, hearty roast."
"I want a dark, rich, hearty roast."
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Es lo que la gente siempre dice cuando se les pregunta qué es lo que quieren en un café.
10:56
It's what people always say
when you ask them.
when you ask them.
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¿Qué te gusta? ¡Tostado oscuro, rico y generoso!
10:58
"What do you like?"
"Dark, rich, hearty roast!"
"Dark, rich, hearty roast!"
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¿A qué porcentaje de ustedes verdaderamente les gusta un tostado oscuro, rico y generoso?
11:01
What percentage of you actually
like a dark, rich, hearty roast?
like a dark, rich, hearty roast?
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11:04
According to Howard, somewhere
between 25 and 27 percent of you.
between 25 and 27 percent of you.
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3048
Según Howard, a entre el 25 y el 27 por ciento de ustedes.
A la mayoría de ustedes les gusta el café poco cargado y con mucha leche.
11:08
Most of you like milky, weak coffee.
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11:10
(Laughter)
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1001
11:11
But you will never, ever say
to someone who asks you what you want
to someone who asks you what you want
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3332
Pero nunca jamás se lo dirán a alguien que les pregunte qué es lo que quieren,
que "Quiero un café poco cargado y con mucha leche." (Risas)
11:14
that "I want a milky, weak coffee."
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2191
Así que esto es lo primero que Howard hizo.
11:17
So that's number one thing
that Howard did.
that Howard did.
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2899
11:21
Number two thing that Howard did
is he made us realize --
is he made us realize --
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3448
Lo segundo que Howard hizo es que nos hizo darnos cuenta --
11:24
it's another very critical point --
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660000
1976
este es otro punto muy crítico --
11:26
he made us realize the importance
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nos hizo darnos cuenta de la importancia de lo que a él le gusta llamar segmentación horizontal.
11:28
of what he likes to call
"horizontal segmentation."
"horizontal segmentation."
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2999
11:32
Why is this critical?
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¿Por qué es esto crítico? Es crítico porque
11:33
Because this is the way the food industry
thought before Howard.
thought before Howard.
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3698
esta es la forma en que la industria de los alimentos pensaba antes de Howard. ¿Bien?
¿Con qué estaban obsesionados a principios de los 80? Estaban obsesionados con la mostaza.
11:37
What were they obsessed with
in the early 80s?
in the early 80s?
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2310
11:39
They were obsessed with mustard.
251
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11:41
In particular, they were obsessed
with the story of Grey Poupon.
with the story of Grey Poupon.
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3317
En particular, estaban obsesionados con la historia de Grey Poupon. ¿De acuerdo?
11:44
Used to be, there were two mustards:
French's and Gulden's.
French's and Gulden's.
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Solía haber dos mostazas. French's y Gulden's.
¿Qué eran? Mostaza amarilla. ¿Qué hay en la mostaza amarilla?
11:48
What were they? Yellow mustard.
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1493
11:49
What's in it?
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1015
Semillas de mostaza amarillas, cúrcuma, y páprika. Eso era la mostaza.
11:50
Yellow mustard seeds,
turmeric, and paprika.
turmeric, and paprika.
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11:52
That was mustard.
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11:53
Grey Poupon came along, with a Dijon.
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Grey Poupon se presentó con una Dijon. ¿De acuerdo?
11:56
Right?
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1188
Una semilla de mostaza café mucho más volátil, un poco de vino blanco, un toque de nariz,
11:57
Much more volatile brown mustard seed,
some white wine, a nose hit,
some white wine, a nose hit,
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aromas mucho más delicados. ¿Y que hicieron?
12:03
much more delicate aromatics.
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1938
12:05
And what do they do?
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Lo pusieron en un frasquito de vidrio con una maravillosa etiqueta esmaltada
12:06
They put it in a little tiny glass jar,
with a wonderful enameled label on it,
with a wonderful enameled label on it,
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para hacerlo parecer hecho en Francia, aún cuando se hace en Oxnard, California.
12:11
made it look French,
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1074
12:12
even though it's made
in Oxnard, California.
in Oxnard, California.
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12:14
(Laughter)
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Y en vez de cobrar un dólar con 50 por una botella de 225 gramos,
12:15
And instead of charging a dollar fifty
for the eight-ounce bottle,
for the eight-ounce bottle,
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12:19
the way that French's and Gulden's did,
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1973
como French's y Gulden's hacían, decidieron cobrar cuatro dólares.
12:21
they decided to charge four dollars.
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1727
Y tenían aquellos anuncios, ¿no? Con el tipo en el Rolls Royce
12:23
And they had those ads.
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12:24
With the guy in the Rolls Royce,
eating the Grey Poupon.
eating the Grey Poupon.
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comiendo la Grey Poupon, el otro Rolls Royce se para al lado
12:27
Another pulls up, and says,
"Do you have any Grey Poupon?"
"Do you have any Grey Poupon?"
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y le dice, ¿tienes un poco de Grey Poupon?
Y el caso es que después de que hicieron eso ¡Grey Poupon despegó!
12:30
And the whole thing, after they did that,
Grey Poupon takes off!
Grey Poupon takes off!
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¡Se hizo con el negocio de la mostaza!
12:33
Takes over the mustard business!
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Y para todo el mundo la conclusión de esto fue
12:35
And everyone's take-home lesson from that
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2008
12:37
was that the way to make people happy
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4735
que la manera de conseguir hacer feliz a la gente
12:41
is to give them something
that is more expensive,
that is more expensive,
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3394
es darles algo que sea más caro, algo a lo que aspirar. ¿No?
12:45
something to aspire to.
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Es que le den la espalda a lo que piensan que les gusta ahora
12:47
It's to make them turn their back
on what they think they like now,
on what they think they like now,
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4143
12:51
and reach out for something
higher up the mustard hierarchy.
higher up the mustard hierarchy.
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3419
y que apunten a algo superior en la jerarquía de las mostazas.
12:54
(Laughter)
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1001
¡Una mostaza mejor! ¡Una mostaza más cara!
12:55
A better mustard!
A more expensive mustard!
A more expensive mustard!
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2212
Una mostaza de mayor sofisticación, cultura y significado.
12:58
A mustard of more sophistication
and culture and meaning.
and culture and meaning.
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3163
Y Howard vio aquello y dijo: ¡Esto está mal!
13:01
And Howard looked to that
and said, "That's wrong!"
and said, "That's wrong!"
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2409
La mostaza no existe en una jerarquía.
13:04
Mustard does not exist on a hierarchy.
285
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2118
La mostaza existe, al igual que la salsa de tomate, en un plano horizontal.
13:07
Mustard exists, just like tomato sauce,
on a horizontal plane.
on a horizontal plane.
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4101
13:11
There is no good mustard or bad mustard.
287
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2739
No hay mostaza buena ni mostaza mala.
13:14
There is no perfect mustard
or imperfect mustard.
or imperfect mustard.
288
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2526
No hay mostaza perfecta ni mostaza imperfecta.
Sólo hay distintas clases de mostazas que se ajustan a diferentes clases de personas.
13:16
There are only different kinds of mustards
that suit different kinds of people.
that suit different kinds of people.
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Él básicamente democratizó la manera en que pensamos sobre el gusto.
13:21
He fundamentally democratized
the way we think about taste.
the way we think about taste.
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4835
Y, nuevamente, por eso debemos estar enormemente agradecidos con Howard Moskowitz.
13:26
And for that, as well, we owe
Howard Moskowitz a huge vote of thanks.
Howard Moskowitz a huge vote of thanks.
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4219
Lo tercero que Howard hizo y quizás lo más importante
13:31
Third thing that Howard did,
and perhaps the most important,
and perhaps the most important,
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3493
13:34
is Howard confronted the notion
of the Platonic dish.
of the Platonic dish.
293
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2839
es que Howard se enfrentó al concepto del plato platónico. (Risas)
13:37
(Laughter)
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1001
¿Qué quiero decir con esto?
13:38
What do I mean by that?
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1142
13:39
(Laughter)
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1556
Durante muchísimo tiempo en la industria de los alimentos
13:41
For the longest time in the food industry,
297
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2100
existía la sensación de que había una manera, una manera perfecta, de preparar un plato.
13:43
there was a sense that there was one way,
298
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2580
13:45
a perfect way, to make a dish.
299
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2728
13:49
You go to Chez Panisse,
300
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1715
Vas a Chez Panisse, te dan el sashimi de cola roja
13:51
they give you the red-tail sashimi
with roasted pumpkin seeds
with roasted pumpkin seeds
301
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5283
con semillas de calabaza tostadas en una reducción de algo de algo.
13:56
in a something something reduction.
302
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1853
No te dan cinco opciones para la reducción, ¿verdad?
13:58
They don't give you five options
on the reduction.
on the reduction.
303
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2483
14:00
They don't say, "Do you want
the extra-chunky reduction, or ...?"
the extra-chunky reduction, or ...?"
304
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3594
No te dicen: ¿quieres la reducción con trozos extra grandes, o quieres la... ¡No!
14:04
No!
305
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1008
Sólo te dan la reducción. ¿Por qué? Porque el chef de Chez Panisse
14:05
You just get the reduction. Why?
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1547
14:07
Because the chef at Chez Panisse
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1562
tiene una noción platónica acerca del sashimi de cola roja.
14:08
has a Platonic notion
about red-tail sashimi.
about red-tail sashimi.
308
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2588
Así es como debería ser.
14:11
"This is the way it ought to be."
309
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1882
14:13
And she serves it that way
time and time again,
time and time again,
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4056
Y ella lo sirve de esa forma una vez y otra vez
14:17
and if you quarrel with her, she will say,
311
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2262
y si no estás de acuerdo con ella, ella te dirá,
"¿Sabes qué? ¡Estás equivocado! Así es como mejor debiera ser en este restaurante".
14:20
"You know what? You're wrong!
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1602
14:22
This is the best way it ought to be
in this restaurant."
in this restaurant."
313
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2720
Y la misma idea también impulsó a la industria de los alimentos.
14:25
Now that same idea fueled
the commercial food industry as well.
the commercial food industry as well.
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3439
Tenían una idea, una noción platónica, de lo que era la salsa de tomate.
14:29
They had a Platonic notion
of what tomato sauce was.
of what tomato sauce was.
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3217
¿Y de dónde venía eso? Venía de Italia.
14:32
And where did that come from?
It came from Italy.
It came from Italy.
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14:34
Italian tomato sauce is what?
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¿La salsa de tomate italiana cómo es? Está triturada, es poco espesa.
14:37
It's blended; it's thin.
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La cultura de la salsa de tomate era poco espesa.
14:39
The culture of tomato sauce was thin.
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14:41
When we talked about "authentic
tomato sauce" in the 1970s,
tomato sauce" in the 1970s,
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Cuando hablábamos de salsa de tomate auténtica en los 70s
14:44
we talked about Italian tomato sauce,
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hablábamos de la salsa de tomate italiana. Hablábamos de las primeras ragús.
14:46
we talked about the earliest Ragùs,
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Que no tenían sólidos visibles, ¿cierto?
14:48
which had no visible solids, right?
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14:50
Which were thin, you just put a little bit
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Que eran poco espesas y que, si ponías un poco encima
se colaba hasta el fondo de la pasta.
14:52
and it sunk down to the bottom
of the pasta.
of the pasta.
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Eso es lo que era. ¿Y por qué estábamos aferrados a eso?
14:55
That's what it was.
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14:56
And why were we attached to that?
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Porque, A, pensábamos que lo que haría a la gente feliz
14:57
Because we thought
that what it took to make people happy
that what it took to make people happy
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era ofrecerles la salsa de tomate culturalmente más auténtica
15:00
was to provide them with the most
culturally authentic tomato sauce, A.
culturally authentic tomato sauce, A.
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15:05
And B, we thought that if we gave them
the culturally authentic tomato sauce,
the culturally authentic tomato sauce,
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y, B, pensábamos que si les dábamos la salsa de tomate culturalmente auténtica
la recibirían con los brazos abiertos.
15:10
then they would embrace it.
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Y esto complacería al número máximo de personas.
15:11
And that's what would please
the maximum number of people.
the maximum number of people.
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Y la razón por la que pensábamos esto, en otras palabras,
15:15
In other words,
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la gente en el mundo de la cocina estaba buscando los principios universales de la cocina.
15:17
people in the cooking world
were looking for cooking universals.
were looking for cooking universals.
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Estaban buscando una sola forma de tratarnos a todos nosotros.
15:21
They were looking for one way
to treat all of us.
to treat all of us.
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15:23
And it's good reason for them
to be obsessed
to be obsessed
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Y hay una buena razón para que ellos se obsesionasen con los principios universales,
15:26
with the idea of universals,
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porque toda la ciencia, a lo largo del siglo 19 y gran parte del 20,
15:27
because all of science,
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15:29
through the 19th century
and much of the 20th,
and much of the 20th,
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estaba obsesionada con principios universales.
15:31
was obsessed with universals.
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Psicólogos, investigadores médicos y economistas estaban todos interesados en descubrir
15:32
Psychologists, medical scientists,
economists
economists
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15:37
were all interested
in finding out the rules
in finding out the rules
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las reglas que gobiernan la manera en que todos nosotros nos comportamos.
15:39
that govern the way all of us behave.
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Pero eso cambió, ¿verdad?
15:42
But that changed, right?
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15:43
What is the great revolution
in science of the last 10, 15 years?
in science of the last 10, 15 years?
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¿Cuál ha sido la gran revolución en la ciencia de los últimos 10, 15 años?
Ha sido la transformación desde la búsqueda de principios universales a la comprensión de la variabilidad.
15:47
It is the movement
from the search for universals
from the search for universals
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15:50
to the understanding of variability.
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Ahora en la ciencia médica, no queremos saber necesariamente cómo
15:53
Now in medical science,
we don't want to know, necessarily,
we don't want to know, necessarily,
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15:56
just how cancer works,
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funciona el cáncer, queremos saber cómo tu cáncer es diferente de mi cáncer.
15:58
we want to know how your cancer
is different from my cancer.
is different from my cancer.
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16:01
I guess my cancer different
from your cancer.
from your cancer.
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Cómo mi cáncer es diferente de tu cáncer, perdón.
16:04
Genetics has opened the door
to the study of human variability.
to the study of human variability.
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La genética ha abierto la puerta al estudio de la variabilidad humana.
16:08
What Howard Moskowitz
was doing was saying,
was doing was saying,
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Lo que Howard Moskowitz estaba haciendo era decir que esta misma revolución
16:10
"This same revolution needs to happen
in the world of tomato sauce."
in the world of tomato sauce."
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necesitaba darse en el mundo de la salsa de tomate.
16:15
And for that, we owe him
a great vote of thanks.
a great vote of thanks.
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Y por ello, le debemos estar agradecidos a Howard.
Les daré un último ejemplo de variabilidad y este es -- oh, lo siento.
16:20
I'll give you one last
illustration of variability,
illustration of variability,
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16:22
and that is -- oh, I'm sorry.
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16:24
Howard not only believed that,
but he took it a second step,
but he took it a second step,
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Howard no sólo creía eso, sino que fue un paso más allá,
que consistió en decir que cuando perseguimos principios universales en la comida
16:28
which was to say that when we pursue
universal principles in food,
universal principles in food,
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16:33
we aren't just making an error;
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no sólo estamos cometiendo un error, sino que nos estamos ocasionando un enorme perjuicio a nosotros mismos.
16:35
we are actually doing ourselves
a massive disservice.
a massive disservice.
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16:38
And the example he used was coffee.
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Y el ejemplo que él usó fue el café.
Y el café es algo con lo que él trabajó mucho, con Nescafe.
16:41
And coffee is something he did
a lot of work with, with Nescafé.
a lot of work with, with Nescafé.
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16:45
If I were to ask all of you to try
and come up with a brand of coffee --
and come up with a brand of coffee --
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Si les pidiera a todos ustedes que probaran y trajeran una marca de café,
una preparación o tipo de café que les hiciera a todos felices,
16:49
a type of coffee, a brew --
that made all of you happy,
that made all of you happy,
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y entonces les pidiera que valoraran ese café
16:52
and then I asked you to rate that coffee,
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la puntuación media en esta sala para el café sería alrededor de 60 en una escala de 0 a 100.
16:54
the average score in this room for coffee
would be about 60 on a scale of 0 to 100.
would be about 60 on a scale of 0 to 100.
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16:58
If, however, you allowed me
to break you into coffee clusters,
to break you into coffee clusters,
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Y, si por el contrario, me permitieran dividirlos en grupos de café,
tal vez tres o cuatro grupos de café,
17:02
maybe three or four coffee clusters,
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y pudiera preparar café sólo para cada uno de esos grupos individuales
17:04
and I could make coffee just
for each of those individual clusters,
for each of those individual clusters,
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17:08
your scores would go from 60 to 75 or 78.
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sus puntuaciones irían de 60 a 75 o 78.
17:12
The difference between coffee
at 60 and coffee at 78
at 60 and coffee at 78
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La diferencia entre el café de 60 y el café de 78
es la diferencia entre el café que tomas a regañadientes
17:18
is a difference between coffee
that makes you wince,
that makes you wince,
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17:20
and coffee that makes you
deliriously happy.
deliriously happy.
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y el café que te hace extremadamente feliz.
17:24
That is the final, and I think
most beautiful lesson,
most beautiful lesson,
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Esa es la última, y creo que la más bella, lección de Howard Moskowitz.
17:27
of Howard Moskowitz:
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Que aceptando la diversidad de los seres humanos
17:29
that in embracing the diversity
of human beings,
of human beings,
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17:32
we will find a surer way
to true happiness.
to true happiness.
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encontraremos un camino más certero a la verdadera felicidad.
17:35
Thank you.
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Gracias.
17:36
(Applause)
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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Malcolm Gladwell - WriterDetective of fads and emerging subcultures, chronicler of jobs-you-never-knew-existed, Malcolm Gladwell's work is toppling the popular understanding of bias, crime, food, marketing, race, consumers and intelligence.
Why you should listen
Malcolm Gladwell searches for the counterintuitive in what we all take to be the mundane: cookies, sneakers, pasta sauce. A New Yorker staff writer since 1996, he visits obscure laboratories and infomercial set kitchens as often as the hangouts of freelance cool-hunters -- a sort of pop-R&D gumshoe -- and for that has become a star lecturer and bestselling author.
Sparkling with curiosity, undaunted by difficult research (yet an eloquent, accessible writer), his work uncovers truths hidden in strange data. His always-delightful blog tackles topics from serial killers to steroids in sports, while provocative recent work in the New Yorker sheds new light on the Flynn effect -- the decades-spanning rise in I.Q. scores.
Gladwell has written four books. The Tipping Point, which began as a New Yorker piece, applies the principles of epidemiology to crime (and sneaker sales), while Blink examines the unconscious processes that allow the mind to "thin slice" reality -- and make decisions in the blink of an eye. His third book, Outliers, questions the inevitabilities of success and identifies the relation of success to nature versus nurture. The newest work, What the Dog Saw and Other Adventures, is an anthology of his New Yorker contributions.
He says: "There is more going on beneath the surface than we think, and more going on in little, finite moments of time than we would guess."
Malcolm Gladwell | Speaker | TED.com