TED2004
Malcolm Gladwell: Choice, happiness and spaghetti sauce
Malcolm Gladwell o sosie do spaghetti
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Autor "Punktu przełomowego" opowiada o pogoni gastronomów za idealnym sosem pomidorowym i snuje rozważania o istocie wyborów i satysfakcji.
Malcolm Gladwell - Writer
Detective of fads and emerging subcultures, chronicler of jobs-you-never-knew-existed, Malcolm Gladwell's work is toppling the popular understanding of bias, crime, food, marketing, race, consumers and intelligence. Full bio
Detective of fads and emerging subcultures, chronicler of jobs-you-never-knew-existed, Malcolm Gladwell's work is toppling the popular understanding of bias, crime, food, marketing, race, consumers and intelligence. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
Miałem mówić o swojej nowej książce,
00:25
I think I was supposed
to talk about my new book,
to talk about my new book,
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00:27
which is called "Blink,"
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pt. "Błysk!”, o pochopnych osądach i pierwszych wrażeniach.
00:29
and it's about snap judgments
and first impressions.
and first impressions.
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00:32
And it comes out in January,
and I hope you all buy it in triplicate.
and I hope you all buy it in triplicate.
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Mam nadzieję, że kupicie po 3 egzemplarze.
00:36
(Laughter)
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Uświadomiłem sobie jednak,
00:38
But I was thinking about this,
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00:39
and I realized that although
my new book makes me happy,
my new book makes me happy,
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że choć nowa książka mnie cieszy
i pewnie ucieszy moją mamę,
00:44
and I think would make my mother happy,
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00:46
it's not really about happiness.
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to nie jest o szczęściu.
Zamiast tego opowiem o kimś,
00:49
So I decided instead,
I would talk about someone
I would talk about someone
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00:52
who I think has done as much
to make Americans happy
to make Americans happy
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kto naprawdę uszczęśliwiał Amerykanów
przez ostatnie 20 lat.
00:56
as perhaps anyone over the last 20 years,
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00:59
a man who is a great
personal hero of mine:
personal hero of mine:
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To mój osobisty bohater.
01:02
someone by the name of Howard Moskowitz,
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Nazywa się Howard Moskowitz.
01:05
who is most famous
for reinventing spaghetti sauce.
for reinventing spaghetti sauce.
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To on powtórnie wynalazł sos pomidorowy.
Howard ma tyle wzrostu, brzuszek,
01:10
Howard's about this high, and he's round,
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01:14
and he's in his 60s,
and he has big huge glasses
and he has big huge glasses
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ponad 60 lat, ogromne okulary,
siwiznę, wielki entuzjazm, radość życia
01:19
and thinning gray hair,
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01:21
and he has a kind of wonderful
exuberance and vitality,
exuberance and vitality,
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i papugę, a poza tym kocha operę
01:25
and he has a parrot,
and he loves the opera,
and he loves the opera,
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01:28
and he's a great aficionado
of medieval history.
of medieval history.
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i uwielbia historię Średniowiecza.
Z zawodu jest psychofizykiem.
01:33
And by profession, he's a psychophysicist.
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01:35
Now, I should tell you that I have no idea
what psychophysics is,
what psychophysics is,
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Nie mam pojęcia, co to jest psychofizyka,
choć przez 2 lata chodziłem z dziewczyną,
01:40
although at some point in my life,
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01:42
I dated a girl for two years
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01:43
who was getting
her doctorate in psychophysics.
her doctorate in psychophysics.
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która robiła z tego doktorat.
01:45
Which should tell you something
about that relationship.
about that relationship.
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To chyba coś mówi o tym związku. (Śmiech)
01:49
(Laughter)
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01:51
As far as I know, psychophysics
is about measuring things.
is about measuring things.
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Psychofizyka zajmuje się chyba mierzeniem.
01:54
And Howard is very interested
in measuring things.
in measuring things.
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Howarda bardzo ciekawi mierzenie.
Obronił doktorat na Harvardzie
01:57
And he graduated
with his doctorate from Harvard,
with his doctorate from Harvard,
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i założył firmę doradczą w White Plains.
01:59
and he set up a little consulting shop
in White Plains, New York.
in White Plains, New York.
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Na początku lat 70. dostał zlecenie od Pepsi.
02:03
And one of his first clients was Pepsi.
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02:06
This is many years ago,
back in the early 70s.
back in the early 70s.
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Na początku lat 70. dostał zlecenie od Pepsi.
Przyszli i powiedzieli:
02:10
And Pepsi came to Howard and they said,
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"Jest nowy słodzik, aspartam.
02:12
"You know, there's this new
thing called aspartame,
thing called aspartame,
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Chcemy zrobić dietetyczną Pepsi.
02:14
and we would like to make Diet Pepsi.
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02:16
We'd like you to figure out
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Dowiedz się, ile aspartamu na puszkę
02:18
how much aspartame we should put
in each can of Diet Pepsi
in each can of Diet Pepsi
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zrobi z Diet Pepsi napój idealny".
02:22
in order to have the perfect drink."
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02:24
Now that sounds like an incredibly
straightforward question to answer,
straightforward question to answer,
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Howardowi zadanie wydało się bardzo proste,
02:28
and that's what Howard thought.
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szczególnie że dodali:
02:30
Because Pepsi told him,
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"Musimy trzymać się przedziału od 8-12%.
02:31
"We're working with a band
between eight and 12 percent.
between eight and 12 percent.
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Mniej niż 8% słodyczy to za mało,
02:34
Anything below eight percent
sweetness is not sweet enough;
sweetness is not sweet enough;
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a więcej niż 12% - za dużo.
02:37
anything above 12 percent
sweetness is too sweet.
sweetness is too sweet.
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02:40
We want to know: what's the sweet
spot between 8 and 12?"
spot between 8 and 12?"
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Potrzebny nam idealny punkt między 8 a 12."
02:44
Now, if I gave you this problem to do,
you would all say, it's very simple.
you would all say, it's very simple.
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Wydaje się, że to nic trudnego.
Produkujemy eksperymentalną Pepsi
02:48
What we do is you make up
a big experimental batch of Pepsi,
a big experimental batch of Pepsi,
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02:51
at every degree of sweetness --
eight percent, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3,
eight percent, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3,
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o każdym stopniu słodyczy: 8%, 8,1, 8,2...
Aż do 12 - i testujemy na tysiącach osób,
02:56
all the way up to 12 --
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02:57
and we try this out
with thousands of people,
with thousands of people,
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wyniki narzucając na wykres.
03:00
and we plot the results on a curve,
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03:02
and we take the most popular
concentration, right?
concentration, right?
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Wybieramy najpopularniejszy napój. Proste.
03:05
Really simple.
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03:06
Howard does the experiment,
and he gets the data back,
and he gets the data back,
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Howard zrobił eksperyment i okazało się,
03:09
and he plots it on a curve,
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że nie wyszedł wcale rozkład normalny.
03:10
and all of a sudden he realizes
it's not a nice bell curve.
it's not a nice bell curve.
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03:13
In fact, the data doesn't make any sense.
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Wyniki nie mają sensu. To chaos.
Wyniki nie mają sensu. To chaos.
03:15
It's a mess. It's all over the place.
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03:17
Now, most people in that business,
in the world of testing food and such,
in the world of testing food and such,
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W branży testowania żywności
03:22
are not dismayed
when the data comes back a mess.
when the data comes back a mess.
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nie dziwią chaotyczne wyniki.
03:25
They think, "Well, you know,
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Badanie gustów nie jest łatwe,
03:26
figuring out what people think
about cola's not that easy."
about cola's not that easy."
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03:29
"You know, maybe we made an error
somewhere along the way."
somewhere along the way."
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łatwo się gdzieś pomylić.
Próbują zgadywać
03:32
"You know, let's just
make an educated guess,"
make an educated guess,"
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03:34
and they simply point
and they go for 10 percent,
and they go for 10 percent,
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i przyjmują 10%, pośrodku.
03:37
right in the middle.
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03:38
Howard is not so easily placated.
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Ale nie Howard.
03:40
Howard is a man of a certain degree
of intellectual standards.
of intellectual standards.
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On ma swoje intelektualne zasady
03:43
And this was not good enough for him,
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i to mu nie wystarczało.
03:45
and this question bedeviled him for years.
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Problem dręczył go latami.
Ciągle myślał, gdzie tkwi błąd.
03:48
And he would think it through
and say, "What was wrong?
and say, "What was wrong?
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03:50
Why could we not make sense
of this experiment with Diet Pepsi?"
of this experiment with Diet Pepsi?"
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Dlaczego wyniki nie miały sensu?
Pewnego dnia, w knajpce w White Plains,
03:55
And one day, he was sitting
in a diner in White Plains,
in a diner in White Plains,
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03:57
about to go trying to dream up
some work for Nescafé.
some work for Nescafé.
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rozmyślał nad projektem dla Nescafé.
Odpowiedź przyszła jak grom z jasnego nieba.
04:01
And suddenly, like a bolt of lightning,
the answer came to him.
the answer came to him.
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Przy analizie badań dietetycznej Pepsi
04:04
And that is, that when they analyzed
the Diet Pepsi data,
the Diet Pepsi data,
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04:07
they were asking the wrong question.
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zadano złe pytanie.
04:09
They were looking for the perfect Pepsi,
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Szukali idealnej Pepsi,
04:11
and they should have been
looking for the perfect Pepsis.
looking for the perfect Pepsis.
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a powinni szukać wielu idealnych Pepsi.
04:15
Trust me.
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04:16
This was an enormous revelation.
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To było wielkie odkrycie.
04:18
This was one of the most brilliant
breakthroughs in all of food science.
breakthroughs in all of food science.
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Olśniewający przełom w gastronomii.
Howard odwiedził konferencje w całym kraju.
04:22
Howard immediately went on the road,
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Howard odwiedził konferencje w całym kraju.
04:24
and he would go to conferences
around the country,
around the country,
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Mówił: "Poszukiwania idealnej Pepsi to błąd.
04:26
and he would stand up and say,
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Mówił: "Poszukiwania idealnej Pepsi to błąd.
04:28
"You had been looking
for the perfect Pepsi.
for the perfect Pepsi.
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04:30
You're wrong.
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04:31
You should be looking
for the perfect Pepsis."
for the perfect Pepsis."
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Trzeba szukać wielu idealnych Pepsi".
04:34
And people would look at him
blankly and say,
blankly and say,
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Napotykał puste spojrzenia.
"Opowiada pan bzdury! Następny proszę!"
04:37
"What are you talking about? Craziness."
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"Opowiada pan bzdury! Następny proszę!"
04:39
And they would say, "Move! Next!"
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04:40
Tried to get business,
nobody would hire him --
nobody would hire him --
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Opętało go. Nikt nie chciał go zatrudnić.
04:43
he was obsessed, though,
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Howard lubi żydowskie powiedzenie:
04:44
and he talked about it
and talked about it.
and talked about it.
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04:46
Howard loves the Yiddish expression
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Howard lubi żydowskie powiedzenie:
dla robaka z chrzanu cały świat to chrzan.
04:48
"To a worm in horseradish,
the world is horseradish."
the world is horseradish."
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To był jego chrzan. (Śmiech). Jego obsesja.
04:51
This was his horseradish.
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04:52
(Laughter)
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04:54
He was obsessed with it!
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04:56
And finally, he had a breakthrough.
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Wreszcie nastąpił przełom. Firma Vlasic Pickles
04:59
Vlasic Pickles came to him,
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05:01
and they said, "Doctor Moskowitz,
we want to make the perfect pickle."
we want to make the perfect pickle."
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złożyła zlecenie na doskonały ogórek kiszony.
Doktor Moskowitz odpowiedział:
05:06
And he said,
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"Nie ma idealnego ogórka, są idealne ogórki.
05:07
"There is no perfect pickle;
there are only perfect pickles."
there are only perfect pickles."
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Prócz ulepszenia zwykłego ogórka,
05:11
And he came back to them and he said,
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05:12
"You don't just need
to improve your regular;
to improve your regular;
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musicie wprowadzić pikantny".
05:15
you need to create zesty."
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05:16
And that's where we got zesty pickles.
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Dzięki temu mamy pikantne ogórki.
05:19
Then the next person came to him:
Campbell's Soup.
Campbell's Soup.
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Potem zgłosił się Campbell.
05:21
And this was even more important.
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To właśnie zupy Campbella wyrobiły Howardowi opinię.
To właśnie zupy Campbella wyrobiły Howardowi opinię.
05:23
In fact, Campbell's Soup
is where Howard made his reputation.
is where Howard made his reputation.
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05:27
Campbell's made Prego,
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Ich sos Prego na początku lat 80. konkurował z Ragu,
05:28
and Prego, in the early 80s,
was struggling next to Ragù,
was struggling next to Ragù,
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05:32
which was the dominant
spaghetti sauce of the 70s and 80s.
spaghetti sauce of the 70s and 80s.
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liderem lat 70. i 80.
Nie chcę za bardzo wchodzić w szczegóły,
05:36
In the industry -- I don't
know whether you care about this,
know whether you care about this,
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Nie chcę za bardzo wchodzić w szczegóły,
05:39
or how much time I have to go into this.
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ale z technicznego punktu widzenia
05:41
But it was, technically speaking
-- this is an aside --
-- this is an aside --
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Prego jest lepsze od Ragu.
05:43
Prego is a better tomato sauce than Ragù.
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Wyższa jakość pulpy pomidorowej, przypraw,
05:45
The quality of the tomato paste
is much better;
is much better;
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05:48
the spice mix is far superior;
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znacznie lepiej klei się do makaronu.
05:50
it adheres to the pasta
in a much more pleasing way.
in a much more pleasing way.
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05:52
In fact, they would do
the famous bowl test
the famous bowl test
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W latach 70. zrobiono słynny test Ragu i Prego.
05:54
back in the 70s with Ragù and Prego.
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05:57
You'd have a plate of spaghetti,
and you would pour it on, right?
and you would pour it on, right?
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Polewano sosem talerz makaronu.
Ragu spływało, a Prego zostawało na wierzchu.
06:01
And the Ragù would all go to the bottom,
and the Prego would sit on top.
and the Prego would sit on top.
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To się nazywa "przyleganie".
06:05
That's called "adherence."
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06:07
And, anyway, despite the fact
that they were far superior in adherence,
that they were far superior in adherence,
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Mimo lepszego przylegania
i jakości sosu, Prego walczyło o przetrwanie.
06:12
and the quality of their tomato paste,
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06:14
Prego was struggling.
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06:16
So they came to Howard,
and they said, fix us.
and they said, fix us.
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Poprosili Howarda, żeby to "naprawił".
06:19
And Howard looked
at their product line, and he said,
at their product line, and he said,
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On nazwał ich ofertę: "Stowarzyszenie Umarłych Pomidorów".
On nazwał ich ofertę: "Stowarzyszenie Umarłych Pomidorów".
06:22
what you have is a dead tomato society.
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Powiedział, co chce zrobić.
06:25
So he said, this is what I want to do.
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Z technologiami z kuchni Campbella
06:28
And he got together
with the Campbell's soup kitchen,
with the Campbell's soup kitchen,
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stworzył 45 rodzajów sosu, które pogrupował
06:30
and he made 45 varieties
of spaghetti sauce.
of spaghetti sauce.
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06:34
And he varied them according
to every conceivable way
to every conceivable way
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według wszelkich możliwych parametrów:
06:37
that you can vary tomato sauce:
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06:38
by sweetness, by level of garlic,
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słodyczy, ilości czosnku, ostrości, kwasowości, "pomidorowości",
06:40
by tomatoey-ness,
by tartness, by sourness,
by tartness, by sourness,
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widocznych części stałych - mój ulubiony termin. (Śmiech)
06:43
by visible solids --
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06:45
my favorite term
in the spaghetti sauce business.
in the spaghetti sauce business.
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06:48
(Laughter)
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06:49
Every conceivable way
you can vary spaghetti sauce,
you can vary spaghetti sauce,
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Podzielił sos na tyle kategorii, ile się dało.
06:53
he varied spaghetti sauce.
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Potem wziął 45 sosów i ruszył w drogę:
06:54
And then he took this whole raft
of 45 spaghetti sauces,
of 45 spaghetti sauces,
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06:58
and he went on the road.
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do Nowego Jorku, Chicago,
06:59
He went to New York, to Chicago,
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Jacksonville, Los Angeles, gdzie zbierał ludzi
07:01
he went to Jacksonville, to Los Angeles.
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07:03
And he brought in people
by the truckload into big halls.
by the truckload into big halls.
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07:07
And he sat them down for two hours,
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i w ciągu 2 godzin karmił 10 porcjami spaghetti,
07:09
and over the course of that two hours,
he gave them ten bowls.
he gave them ten bowls.
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i w ciągu 2 godzin karmił 10 porcjami spaghetti,
07:12
Ten small bowls of pasta,
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każdą z innym sosem.
07:13
with a different spaghetti
sauce on each one.
sauce on each one.
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Każdy sos podlegał ocenie konsumenta,
07:16
And after they ate each bowl,
they had to rate, from 0 to 100,
they had to rate, from 0 to 100,
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w skali 0-100.
07:21
how good they thought
the spaghetti sauce was.
the spaghetti sauce was.
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Po wielu miesiącach testów
07:24
At the end of that process,
after doing it for months and months,
after doing it for months and months,
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Howard miał mnóstwo danych
07:27
he had a mountain of data
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o tym, co Amerykanie sądzą o sosie pomidorowym.
07:28
about how the American people
feel about spaghetti sauce.
feel about spaghetti sauce.
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07:32
And then he analyzed the data.
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Czy chciał znaleźć najpopularniejszy sos? Nie!
07:34
Did he look for the most popular
variety of spaghetti sauce?
variety of spaghetti sauce?
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Czy chciał znaleźć najpopularniejszy sos? Nie!
07:38
No! Howard doesn't believe
that there is such a thing.
that there is such a thing.
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Howard nie wierzy w takie rzeczy.
Przyjrzał się danym i powiedział:
07:41
Instead, he looked
at the data, and he said,
at the data, and he said,
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zobaczmy, czy dadzą się pogrupować,
07:43
let's see if we can group all these
different data points into clusters.
different data points into clusters.
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07:48
Let's see if they congregate
around certain ideas.
around certain ideas.
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czy gromadzą się wokół pewnych idei.
07:51
And sure enough, if you sit down,
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Faktycznie, analiza danych wykazała,
07:54
and you analyze all this data
on spaghetti sauce,
on spaghetti sauce,
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07:57
you realize that all Americans
fall into one of three groups.
fall into one of three groups.
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że Amerykanie dzielą się na 3 grupy.
Jedni lubią sos pomidorowy bez dodatków,
08:01
There are people
who like their spaghetti sauce plain;
who like their spaghetti sauce plain;
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inni wolą pikantny,
08:04
there are people
who like their spaghetti sauce spicy;
who like their spaghetti sauce spicy;
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08:06
and there are people
who like it extra chunky.
who like it extra chunky.
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a inni sos z dużymi kawałkami warzyw.
08:09
And of those three facts,
the third one was the most significant,
the third one was the most significant,
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To trzecie odkrycie było kluczowe.
08:13
because at the time, in the early 1980s,
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W sklepach na początku lat 80.
W sklepach na początku lat 80.
08:16
if you went to a supermarket,
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nie było sosów z dużymi kawałkami warzyw.
08:18
you would not find
extra-chunky spaghetti sauce.
extra-chunky spaghetti sauce.
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08:21
And Prego turned to Howard, and they said,
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Campbell nie mógł uwierzyć, że 33% Amerykanów
Campbell nie mógł uwierzyć, że 33% Amerykanów
08:23
"You're telling me
that one third of Americans
that one third of Americans
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08:26
crave extra-chunky spaghetti sauce
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08:29
and yet no one is servicing their needs?"
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lubi taki sos, a nikt go nie produkuje.
08:32
And he said "Yes!"
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08:33
(Laughter)
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(Śmiech) Prego natychmiast zmieniło ofertę.
08:34
And Prego then went back,
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(Śmiech) Prego natychmiast zmieniło ofertę.
08:36
and completely reformulated
their spaghetti sauce,
their spaghetti sauce,
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Campbell wyprodukował sos z kawałkami warzyw
08:38
and came out with a line of extra chunky
that immediately and completely
that immediately and completely
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i całkowicie zdominował rynek USA.
08:42
took over the spaghetti sauce
business in this country.
business in this country.
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W 10 lat zarobili 600 milionów dolarów
08:45
And over the next 10 years,
they made 600 million dollars
they made 600 million dollars
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za sosy z kawałkami warzyw.
08:49
off their line of extra-chunky sauces.
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08:52
Everyone else in the industry looked
at Howard had done, and they said,
at Howard had done, and they said,
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Konkurencja łapała się za głowę:
"O rany, wszystko spapraliśmy!"
08:56
"Oh my god! We've been
thinking all wrong!"
thinking all wrong!"
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08:58
And that's when you started to get
seven different kinds of vinegar,
seven different kinds of vinegar,
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Zaczął pojawiać się ocet w 7 rodzajach,
14 rodzajów musztardy, 71 rodzajów oliwy,
09:02
and 14 different kinds of mustard,
and 71 different kinds of olive oil.
and 71 different kinds of olive oil.
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i wreszcie nawet Ragu zatrudnił Howarda.
09:07
And then eventually
even Ragù hired Howard,
even Ragù hired Howard,
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09:10
and Howard did the exact same thing
for Ragù that he did for Prego.
for Ragù that he did for Prego.
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Howard zrobił to samo, co z Prego.
Idźcie dziś do dobrego sklepu poszukać Ragu.
09:14
And today, if you go
to a really good supermarket,
to a really good supermarket,
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Idźcie dziś do dobrego sklepu poszukać Ragu.
09:16
do you know how many Ragùs there are?
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Ile rodzajów znajdziecie? 36!
09:18
36!
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09:20
In six varieties:
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W 6 odmianach: serowy, dietetyczny, Robusto,
09:22
Cheese, Light,
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09:25
Robusto, Rich & Hearty,
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wzbogacony, tradycyjny, z kawałkami warzyw. (Śmiech)
09:28
Old World Traditional --
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09:32
Extra-Chunky Garden.
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09:34
(Laughter)
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09:35
That's Howard's doing.
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To dar Howarda dla Ameryki.
09:37
That is Howard's gift
to the American people.
to the American people.
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09:39
Now why is that important?
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Czemu to takie ważne?
09:41
(Laughter)
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09:43
It is, in fact, enormously important.
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To ogromnie ważne. Już wyjaśniam.
09:45
I'll explain to you why.
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09:47
What Howard did is he fundamentally
changed the way the food industry thinks
changed the way the food industry thinks
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Howard całkowicie odmienił podejście branży
do zaspokajania potrzeb klientów.
09:51
about making you happy.
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09:53
Assumption number one
in the food industry used to be
in the food industry used to be
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Dawniej sądzono, że żeby odkryć, co zasmakuje,
09:56
that the way to find out
what people want to eat,
what people want to eat,
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Dawniej sądzono, że żeby odkryć, co zasmakuje,
09:59
what will make people happy,
is to ask them.
is to ask them.
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wystarczy konsumentów zapytać.
10:02
And for years and years and years,
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Latami Ragu i Prego organizowały
10:04
Ragù and Prego would have focus groups,
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wywiady grupowe. Sadzali ludzi i pytali:
10:06
and they would sit you down,
and they would say,
and they would say,
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Jaki sos pomidorowy lubicie? Czego wam trzeba?
10:08
"What do you want in a spaghetti sauce?
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1873
10:10
Tell us what you want
in a spaghetti sauce."
in a spaghetti sauce."
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2075
Przez 20, 30 lat w żadnej sesji grupowej
10:12
And for all those years -- 20, 30 years --
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2924
10:15
through all those focus group sessions,
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591000
1976
Przez 20, 30 lat w żadnej sesji grupowej
10:17
no one ever said they wanted extra-chunky.
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nikt nie powiedział: "z kawałkami warzyw".
10:21
Even though at least a third of them,
deep in their hearts, actually did.
deep in their hearts, actually did.
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3451
Chociaż w głębi serca 33% tego chciało.
(Śmiech) Ludzie nie wiedzą, czego chcą!
10:25
(Laughter)
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10:27
People don't know what they want!
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2012
(Śmiech) Ludzie nie wiedzą, czego chcą!
10:29
As Howard loves to say,
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1446
Jak mówi Howard: "nie wie głowa, czego język żąda."
10:31
"The mind knows not
what the tongue wants."
what the tongue wants."
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2752
To zagadka!
10:33
It's a mystery!
227
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1152
10:34
(Laughter)
228
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1004
Aby zrozumieć własne zachcianki i gusta
10:35
And a critically important step
229
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10:38
in understanding
our own desires and tastes
our own desires and tastes
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trzeba przyjąć, że nie zawsze da się je wyjaśnić.
10:41
is to realize that we cannot always
explain what we want, deep down.
explain what we want, deep down.
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Gdybym zapytał, jaką lubicie kawę,
10:46
If I asked all of you, for example,
in this room, what you want in a coffee,
in this room, what you want in a coffee,
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co do jednego odparlibyście: czarną, bogatą, ciemno paloną.
10:50
you know what you'd say?
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10:51
Every one of you would say,
"I want a dark, rich, hearty roast."
"I want a dark, rich, hearty roast."
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Tak mówią wszyscy.
10:56
It's what people always say
when you ask them.
when you ask them.
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Jaką lubisz? Czarną, bogatą, ciemno paloną!
10:58
"What do you like?"
"Dark, rich, hearty roast!"
"Dark, rich, hearty roast!"
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2532
A ile procent naprawdę lubi taką kawę?
11:01
What percentage of you actually
like a dark, rich, hearty roast?
like a dark, rich, hearty roast?
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3513
11:04
According to Howard, somewhere
between 25 and 27 percent of you.
between 25 and 27 percent of you.
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3048
Wg Howarda jakieś 25-27%.
Większość woli słabą kawę z mlekiem.
11:08
Most of you like milky, weak coffee.
239
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2195
11:10
(Laughter)
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645786
1001
11:11
But you will never, ever say
to someone who asks you what you want
to someone who asks you what you want
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646811
3332
Ale zapytani, nigdy w życiu nie powiecie:
"Proszę słabą, z mlekiem". (Śmiech)
11:14
that "I want a milky, weak coffee."
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2191
To pierwsza lekcja Howarda.
11:17
So that's number one thing
that Howard did.
that Howard did.
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2899
11:21
Number two thing that Howard did
is he made us realize --
is he made us realize --
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3448
Howard kazał nam też zrozumieć inny ważny fakt:
11:24
it's another very critical point --
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660000
1976
Howard kazał nam też zrozumieć inny ważny fakt:
11:26
he made us realize the importance
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rolę "segmentacji poziomej".
11:28
of what he likes to call
"horizontal segmentation."
"horizontal segmentation."
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2999
11:32
Why is this critical?
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Czemu to takie ważne?
11:33
Because this is the way the food industry
thought before Howard.
thought before Howard.
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3698
Bo tak wcześniej myślała branża.
Ich obsesją w latach '80 była musztarda,
11:37
What were they obsessed with
in the early 80s?
in the early 80s?
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2310
11:39
They were obsessed with mustard.
251
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1540
11:41
In particular, they were obsessed
with the story of Grey Poupon.
with the story of Grey Poupon.
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3317
a zwłaszcza historia marki "Grey Poupon".
11:44
Used to be, there were two mustards:
French's and Gulden's.
French's and Gulden's.
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Dawniej były dwie musztardy: Frencha i Guldena.
Po prostu żółta musztarda,
11:48
What were they? Yellow mustard.
254
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1493
11:49
What's in it?
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1015
ziarna gorczycy, kurkuma i papryka.
11:50
Yellow mustard seeds,
turmeric, and paprika.
turmeric, and paprika.
256
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2054
11:52
That was mustard.
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1074
11:53
Grey Poupon came along, with a Dijon.
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2525
Firma Grey Poupon wprowadziła dijon.
11:56
Right?
259
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1188
Silniejsza w smaku gorczyca brązowa, białe wino,
11:57
Much more volatile brown mustard seed,
some white wine, a nose hit,
some white wine, a nose hit,
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5663
uderzająco aromatyczna. I co zrobili?
12:03
much more delicate aromatics.
261
698405
1938
12:05
And what do they do?
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1015
Zapakowali ją w słoiczki z gustowną naklejką,
12:06
They put it in a little tiny glass jar,
with a wonderful enameled label on it,
with a wonderful enameled label on it,
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żeby wyglądała jak francuska, nie kalifornijska.
12:11
made it look French,
264
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1074
12:12
even though it's made
in Oxnard, California.
in Oxnard, California.
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2101
12:14
(Laughter)
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1001
Zamiast półtora dolara za 200g,
12:15
And instead of charging a dollar fifty
for the eight-ounce bottle,
for the eight-ounce bottle,
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4499
12:19
the way that French's and Gulden's did,
268
715000
1973
jak u konkurencji, kosztowała 4 dolary.
12:21
they decided to charge four dollars.
269
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1727
Reklama: facet w Rolls-Roysie je Grey Poupon,
12:23
And they had those ads.
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1212
12:24
With the guy in the Rolls Royce,
eating the Grey Poupon.
eating the Grey Poupon.
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2635
podjeżdża drugi Rolls Royce,
12:27
Another pulls up, and says,
"Do you have any Grey Poupon?"
"Do you have any Grey Poupon?"
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kierowca pyta: masz Grey Poupon?
Grey Poupon strasznie się rozkręcił.
12:30
And the whole thing, after they did that,
Grey Poupon takes off!
Grey Poupon takes off!
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3184
Przejęli całą branżę!
12:33
Takes over the mustard business!
274
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1524
Jaki z tego morał?
12:35
And everyone's take-home lesson from that
275
730209
2008
12:37
was that the way to make people happy
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4735
Żeby uszczęśliwić konsumentów,
12:41
is to give them something
that is more expensive,
that is more expensive,
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trzeba dać im coś droższego, aspiracje.
12:45
something to aspire to.
278
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2067
Skłonić do odrzucenia tego, co dotąd lubili
12:47
It's to make them turn their back
on what they think they like now,
on what they think they like now,
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4143
12:51
and reach out for something
higher up the mustard hierarchy.
higher up the mustard hierarchy.
280
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3419
i sięgnięcia na wyższą półkę.
12:54
(Laughter)
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1001
Lepsza musztarda! Droższa musztarda!
12:55
A better mustard!
A more expensive mustard!
A more expensive mustard!
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2212
Symbol wyrobienia, kultury i pozycji.
12:58
A mustard of more sophistication
and culture and meaning.
and culture and meaning.
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3163
Howard ocenił, że to złe podejście.
13:01
And Howard looked to that
and said, "That's wrong!"
and said, "That's wrong!"
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2409
W musztardzie nie ma hierarchii,
13:04
Mustard does not exist on a hierarchy.
285
759639
2118
tylko płaszczyzna, tak jak w sosie pomidorowym.
13:07
Mustard exists, just like tomato sauce,
on a horizontal plane.
on a horizontal plane.
286
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4101
13:11
There is no good mustard or bad mustard.
287
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2739
Nie ma musztardy dobrej i złej,
13:14
There is no perfect mustard
or imperfect mustard.
or imperfect mustard.
288
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2526
doskonałej i niedoskonałej.
Są tylko różne odmiany, pod różne gusta.
13:16
There are only different kinds of mustards
that suit different kinds of people.
that suit different kinds of people.
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3745
Howard zdemokratyzował ideę smaku.
13:21
He fundamentally democratized
the way we think about taste.
the way we think about taste.
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4835
Winni mu jesteśmy głeboką wdzięczność.
13:26
And for that, as well, we owe
Howard Moskowitz a huge vote of thanks.
Howard Moskowitz a huge vote of thanks.
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4219
Trzecim, chyba najważniejszym jego osiągnięciem,
13:31
Third thing that Howard did,
and perhaps the most important,
and perhaps the most important,
292
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3493
13:34
is Howard confronted the notion
of the Platonic dish.
of the Platonic dish.
293
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2839
było starcie z "potrawą platońską". (Śmiech)
13:37
(Laughter)
294
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1001
Co przez to rozumiem?
13:38
What do I mean by that?
295
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1142
13:39
(Laughter)
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1556
Przemysł spożywczy wierzył,
13:41
For the longest time in the food industry,
297
796352
2100
że potrawy mają tylko jeden właściwy przepis.
13:43
there was a sense that there was one way,
298
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2580
13:45
a perfect way, to make a dish.
299
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2728
13:49
You go to Chez Panisse,
300
804570
1715
W restauracji Chez Panisse podają sashimi
13:51
they give you the red-tail sashimi
with roasted pumpkin seeds
with roasted pumpkin seeds
301
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5283
z prażonymi pestkami dyni, w jakimś wywarze.
13:56
in a something something reduction.
302
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1853
Nie ma 5 wywarów do wyboru, prawda?
13:58
They don't give you five options
on the reduction.
on the reduction.
303
813493
2483
14:00
They don't say, "Do you want
the extra-chunky reduction, or ...?"
the extra-chunky reduction, or ...?"
304
816000
3594
Nie pytają, czy chcemy gęstszy wywar.
14:04
No!
305
819618
1008
Czemu? Bo szefowa kuchni
14:05
You just get the reduction. Why?
306
820650
1547
14:07
Because the chef at Chez Panisse
307
822221
1562
hołduje platońskiej idei shashimi.
14:08
has a Platonic notion
about red-tail sashimi.
about red-tail sashimi.
308
823807
2588
Ma być takie, jakie jest, i koniec.
14:11
"This is the way it ought to be."
309
826419
1882
14:13
And she serves it that way
time and time again,
time and time again,
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4056
Tak się gotuje od zawsze.
14:17
and if you quarrel with her, she will say,
311
833000
2262
Nie spieraj się, bo powie:
"Nie znasz się! W mojej restauracji to najlepszy sposób".
14:20
"You know what? You're wrong!
312
835286
1602
14:22
This is the best way it ought to be
in this restaurant."
in this restaurant."
313
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2720
To samo podejście przeniknęło do branży.
14:25
Now that same idea fueled
the commercial food industry as well.
the commercial food industry as well.
314
840212
3439
Platońska idea sosu pomidorowego.
14:29
They had a Platonic notion
of what tomato sauce was.
of what tomato sauce was.
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3217
Skąd pochodzi ten sos? Z Włoch.
14:32
And where did that come from?
It came from Italy.
It came from Italy.
316
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2441
14:34
Italian tomato sauce is what?
317
850000
2019
Jaki jest włoski sos? Przetarty, rzadki.
14:37
It's blended; it's thin.
318
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1600
Rzadkość sosu to element tej kultury.
14:39
The culture of tomato sauce was thin.
319
854531
2309
14:41
When we talked about "authentic
tomato sauce" in the 1970s,
tomato sauce" in the 1970s,
320
856864
2977
Mówiąc o autentycznym sosie z lat 70.,
14:44
we talked about Italian tomato sauce,
321
859865
1809
mówiliśmy o sosie włoskim, o wywarze mięsnym.
14:46
we talked about the earliest Ragùs,
322
861698
1779
W wywarze nic nie pływa, prawda?
14:48
which had no visible solids, right?
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2152
14:50
Which were thin, you just put a little bit
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2117
Taki rzadki wywar ścieka pod makaron.
Taki rzadki wywar ścieka pod makaron.
14:52
and it sunk down to the bottom
of the pasta.
of the pasta.
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868141
2048
Czemu się tego trzymaliśmy?
14:55
That's what it was.
326
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1192
14:56
And why were we attached to that?
327
871429
1661
Bo sądziliśmy, że konsumentów usatysfakcjonuje
14:57
Because we thought
that what it took to make people happy
that what it took to make people happy
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autentyczny sos, to po pierwsze.
15:00
was to provide them with the most
culturally authentic tomato sauce, A.
culturally authentic tomato sauce, A.
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15:05
And B, we thought that if we gave them
the culturally authentic tomato sauce,
the culturally authentic tomato sauce,
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Po drugie, łudziliśmy się,
że właśnie taki sos pokochają.
15:10
then they would embrace it.
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I że przypadnie do gustu wielu ludziom.
15:11
And that's what would please
the maximum number of people.
the maximum number of people.
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Innymi słowy,
15:15
In other words,
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gastronomia szukała kulinarnych uniwersaliów.
15:17
people in the cooking world
were looking for cooking universals.
were looking for cooking universals.
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Jednego przepisu dla wszystkich.
15:21
They were looking for one way
to treat all of us.
to treat all of us.
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15:23
And it's good reason for them
to be obsessed
to be obsessed
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Nie bez powodu.
15:26
with the idea of universals,
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Nauka XIX i XX wieku szalała na punkcie uniwersaliów.
15:27
because all of science,
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15:29
through the 19th century
and much of the 20th,
and much of the 20th,
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Nauka XIX i XX wieku szalała na punkcie uniwersaliów.
15:31
was obsessed with universals.
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Psychologowie, lekarze, ekonomiści
15:32
Psychologists, medical scientists,
economists
economists
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15:37
were all interested
in finding out the rules
in finding out the rules
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szukali zasad rządzących wszystkimi.
15:39
that govern the way all of us behave.
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Ale już tak nie jest.
15:42
But that changed, right?
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15:43
What is the great revolution
in science of the last 10, 15 years?
in science of the last 10, 15 years?
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Wielka rewolucja naukowa ostatnich 15 lat
to ruch od uniwersaliów do różnorodności.
15:47
It is the movement
from the search for universals
from the search for universals
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15:50
to the understanding of variability.
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Medycyna nie szuka już mechanizmu raka,
15:53
Now in medical science,
we don't want to know, necessarily,
we don't want to know, necessarily,
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15:56
just how cancer works,
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ale tego, czym twój rak różni się od mojego.
15:58
we want to know how your cancer
is different from my cancer.
is different from my cancer.
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16:01
I guess my cancer different
from your cancer.
from your cancer.
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Źle pokazałem - mój od twojego.
16:04
Genetics has opened the door
to the study of human variability.
to the study of human variability.
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Badania różnorodności zaczęła genetyka.
16:08
What Howard Moskowitz
was doing was saying,
was doing was saying,
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2095
Howard Moskowitz wprowadził tę rewolucję
16:10
"This same revolution needs to happen
in the world of tomato sauce."
in the world of tomato sauce."
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do świata sosów pomidorowych.
16:15
And for that, we owe him
a great vote of thanks.
a great vote of thanks.
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Za to należy mu się nasza wdzięczność.
Oto ostatni przykład różnorodności.
16:20
I'll give you one last
illustration of variability,
illustration of variability,
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16:22
and that is -- oh, I'm sorry.
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16:24
Howard not only believed that,
but he took it a second step,
but he took it a second step,
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959932
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Howard posunął się o krok dalej:
goniąc za uniwersaliami gastronomicznymi
16:28
which was to say that when we pursue
universal principles in food,
universal principles in food,
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16:33
we aren't just making an error;
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robimy sobie niedźwiedzią przysługę.
16:35
we are actually doing ourselves
a massive disservice.
a massive disservice.
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16:38
And the example he used was coffee.
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Jako przykład podawał kawę.
Wiele pracował nad kawą dla Nescafé.
16:41
And coffee is something he did
a lot of work with, with Nescafé.
a lot of work with, with Nescafé.
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16:45
If I were to ask all of you to try
and come up with a brand of coffee --
and come up with a brand of coffee --
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Gdybym poprosił was o wybór kawy,
która wam wszystkim odpowiada,
16:49
a type of coffee, a brew --
that made all of you happy,
that made all of you happy,
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3022
a potem o jej ocenę,
16:52
and then I asked you to rate that coffee,
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przeciętny wynik wynosiłby 60/100.
16:54
the average score in this room for coffee
would be about 60 on a scale of 0 to 100.
would be about 60 on a scale of 0 to 100.
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16:58
If, however, you allowed me
to break you into coffee clusters,
to break you into coffee clusters,
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Gdybym jednak podzielił was na grupy,
trzy, może cztery,
17:02
maybe three or four coffee clusters,
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i każda dostałaby ulubiony rodzaj,
17:04
and I could make coffee just
for each of those individual clusters,
for each of those individual clusters,
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17:08
your scores would go from 60 to 75 or 78.
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oceny podskoczyłyby do 75-78.
17:12
The difference between coffee
at 60 and coffee at 78
at 60 and coffee at 78
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Różnica między 60 a 78
to jak różnica między obrzydzeniem,
17:18
is a difference between coffee
that makes you wince,
that makes you wince,
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17:20
and coffee that makes you
deliriously happy.
deliriously happy.
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a błogim uszczęśliwieniem.
17:24
That is the final, and I think
most beautiful lesson,
most beautiful lesson,
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Oto ostateczne i najpiękniejsze przesłanie Moskowitza.
17:27
of Howard Moskowitz:
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Akceptacja ludzkiej różnorodności
17:29
that in embracing the diversity
of human beings,
of human beings,
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17:32
we will find a surer way
to true happiness.
to true happiness.
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to klucz do prawdziwego szczęścia.
17:35
Thank you.
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Dziękuję.
17:36
(Applause)
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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Malcolm Gladwell - WriterDetective of fads and emerging subcultures, chronicler of jobs-you-never-knew-existed, Malcolm Gladwell's work is toppling the popular understanding of bias, crime, food, marketing, race, consumers and intelligence.
Why you should listen
Malcolm Gladwell searches for the counterintuitive in what we all take to be the mundane: cookies, sneakers, pasta sauce. A New Yorker staff writer since 1996, he visits obscure laboratories and infomercial set kitchens as often as the hangouts of freelance cool-hunters -- a sort of pop-R&D gumshoe -- and for that has become a star lecturer and bestselling author.
Sparkling with curiosity, undaunted by difficult research (yet an eloquent, accessible writer), his work uncovers truths hidden in strange data. His always-delightful blog tackles topics from serial killers to steroids in sports, while provocative recent work in the New Yorker sheds new light on the Flynn effect -- the decades-spanning rise in I.Q. scores.
Gladwell has written four books. The Tipping Point, which began as a New Yorker piece, applies the principles of epidemiology to crime (and sneaker sales), while Blink examines the unconscious processes that allow the mind to "thin slice" reality -- and make decisions in the blink of an eye. His third book, Outliers, questions the inevitabilities of success and identifies the relation of success to nature versus nurture. The newest work, What the Dog Saw and Other Adventures, is an anthology of his New Yorker contributions.
He says: "There is more going on beneath the surface than we think, and more going on in little, finite moments of time than we would guess."
Malcolm Gladwell | Speaker | TED.com