TED2011
Suzanne Lee: Grow your own clothes
Suzan Li: Gajite svoju odeću
Filmed:
Readability: 4.1
1,519,065 views
Dizajner Suzan Li predstavlja svoje eksperimente o uzgajanju materijala zasnovanog na kulturi kombuhe, koji može da se koristi kao platno ili biljna koža za pravljenje odeće. Proces je fascinantan, rezultati su divni (mada još uvek postoji jedna mala mana...), a potencijal ove nove tehnologije je jednostavno neverovatan.
Suzanne Lee - Designer
TED Fellow Suzanne Lee is a fashion designer turned biological conjurer, who gleefully plays with new materials and processes. Full bio
TED Fellow Suzanne Lee is a fashion designer turned biological conjurer, who gleefully plays with new materials and processes. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:15
So as a fashion designer,
0
0
2000
Kao modni dizajner,
00:17
I've always tended to think of materials
1
2000
2000
oduvek sam imala sklonost da o materijalima
00:19
something like this,
2
4000
2000
razmišljam nekako na ovaj način,
00:21
or this,
3
6000
3000
ili ovako,
00:24
or maybe this.
4
9000
3000
ili možda ovako.
00:27
But then I met a biologist,
5
12000
3000
Ali onda sam upoznala jednog biologa,
00:30
and now I think of materials like this --
6
15000
3000
i sada o materijalima razmišljam na ovaj način -
00:33
green tea, sugar,
7
18000
2000
zeleni čaj, šećer,
00:35
a few microbes and a little time.
8
20000
3000
nekoliko vrsta mikroba i malo vremena.
00:38
I'm essentially using a kombucha recipe,
9
23000
2000
U suštini ja koristim recept za uspostvljanje kulture kombuha,
00:40
which is a symbiotic mix
10
25000
2000
a to je simbioza između određenih
00:42
of bacteria, yeasts and other micro-organisms,
11
27000
3000
bakterija, kvasaca i drugih mikroorganizama,
00:45
which spin cellulose
12
30000
2000
koji ispredaju celulozu
00:47
in a fermentation process.
13
32000
3000
u toku procesa fermentacije.
00:50
Over time, these tiny threads
14
35000
2000
Tokom vremena, ove majušne niti
00:52
form in the liquid into layers
15
37000
2000
formiraju slojeve u tečnosti
00:54
and produce a mat on the surface.
16
39000
3000
i stvore prekrivač na površini.
00:59
So we start by brewing the tea.
17
44000
2000
Dakle, proces počinje kuvanjem čaja.
01:01
I brew up to about 30 liters of tea at a time,
18
46000
3000
Ja skuvam oko 30 litara čaja odjednom
01:04
and then while it's still hot, add a couple of kilos of sugar.
19
49000
3000
i dok je još uvek vruć, dodam par kilograma šećera.
01:07
We stir this in until it's completely dissolved
20
52000
3000
Sve ovo potom mešamo dok se potpuno ne rastvori
01:10
and then pour it into a growth bath.
21
55000
2000
i onda to izlijemo u kadu za rast.
01:12
We need to check that the temperature
22
57000
2000
Moramo da proverimo da je temperatura
01:14
has cooled to below 30 degrees C.
23
59000
3000
manja od 30 stepeni °C.
01:17
And then we're ready to add the living organism.
24
62000
2000
I tada je sve spremno za ubacivanje živih organizama.
01:19
And along with that, some acetic acid.
25
64000
2000
I zajedno sa tim, malo sirćetne kiseline.
01:21
And once you get this process going,
26
66000
2000
I jednom kada započnete ovaj proces,
01:23
you can actually recycle
27
68000
2000
možete u principu i da reciklirate
01:25
your previous fermented liquid.
28
70000
3000
prethodno fermentisanu tečnost.
01:28
We need to maintain an optimum temperature for the growth.
29
73000
3000
Moramo da održimo optimalnu temperaturu za rast.
01:31
And I use a heat mat to sit the bath on
30
76000
3000
Ja koristim električno ćebe koje postavim u kadu
01:34
and a thermostat to regulate it.
31
79000
2000
i termostatom regulišem temperaturu.
01:36
And actually, in hot weather, I can just grow it outside.
32
81000
3000
I zapravo, kada je toplo vreme, mogu to raditi i napolju.
01:39
So this is my mini fabric farm.
33
84000
2000
Ovo je moja mala tekstilna farma.
01:41
After about three days,
34
86000
2000
Posle otprilike tri dana,
01:43
the bubbles will appear on the surface of the liquid.
35
88000
3000
pojavljuju se mehurići na površini tečnosti.
01:46
So this is telling us that the fermentation is in full swing.
36
91000
3000
I to nam govori da je fermentacija u punom jeku.
01:49
And the bacteria are feeding
37
94000
2000
I bakterije se hrane
01:51
on the sugar nutrients in the liquid.
38
96000
2000
sastojcima šećera u tečnosti.
01:53
So they're spinning these tiny nano fibers
39
98000
2000
Dakle, one predu ova tanka nano-vlakna
01:55
of pure cellulose.
40
100000
2000
čiste celuloze.
01:57
And they're sticking together, forming layers
41
102000
2000
I vlakna su pirljubljena jedna uz drugo, formirajući slojeve
01:59
and giving us a sheet on the surface.
42
104000
2000
i daju nam jedan sloj na površini.
02:01
After about two to three weeks,
43
106000
2000
Posle otprilike dve do tri nedelje,
02:03
we're looking at something which is about an inch in thickness.
44
108000
3000
gledamo u nešto što je debelo oko 2.5 centimetra.
02:06
So the bath on the left is after five days,
45
111000
3000
Kupka sa leve strane je proizvod pet dana fermentacije,
02:09
and on the right, after 10.
46
114000
2000
a sa desne, vidimo proizvod 10 dana rada.
02:11
And this is a static culture.
47
116000
2000
Ovo je statična kultura.
02:13
You don't have to do anything to it;
48
118000
2000
Ne morate ništa da radite sa njom;
02:15
you just literally watch it grow.
49
120000
2000
bukvalno je gledate kako raste.
02:17
It doesn't need light.
50
122000
2000
Ne treba joj svetlost.
02:19
And when it's ready to harvest, you take it out of the bath
51
124000
3000
Kada je spremna za žetvu, izvadite je prosto iz kupke
02:22
and you wash it in cold, soapy water.
52
127000
2000
i operete je u hladnoj, sapunjavoj vodi.
02:24
At this point, it's really heavy.
53
129000
2000
U ovom trenutku, zaista je teška.
02:26
It's over 90 percent water,
54
131000
2000
Sadrži preko 90 odsto vode
02:28
so we need to let that evaporate.
55
133000
2000
i moramo pustiti da ta voda ispari.
02:30
So I spread it out onto a wooden sheet.
56
135000
2000
Ja to raširim na drvenu ploču.
02:32
Again, you can do that outside
57
137000
2000
To možete raditi i napolju
02:34
and just let it dry in the air.
58
139000
2000
i samo pustite da se osuši na vazduhu.
02:36
And as it's drying, it's compressing,
59
141000
2000
I dok se suši, smanjuje se,
02:38
so what you're left with, depending on the recipe,
60
143000
2000
i ono što vam ostane, u zavisnosti od recepta,
02:40
is something that's either
61
145000
2000
je ili nešto što je
02:42
like a really light-weight, transparent paper,
62
147000
2000
zaista lagano, kao providan papir,
02:44
or something which is much more like a flexible vegetable leather.
63
149000
4000
ili nešto što je više poput fleksibilne biljne kože.
02:48
And then you can either cut that out
64
153000
2000
Onda to možete ili iseći
02:50
and sew it conventionally,
65
155000
2000
i šiti na uobičajeni način,
02:52
or you can use the wet material
66
157000
2000
ili možete korisiti taj vlažan materijal
02:54
to form it around a three-dimensional shape.
67
159000
3000
i staviti ga preko trodimenzionalnog oblika.
02:57
And as it evaporates,
68
162000
2000
Dok se suši,
02:59
it will knit itself together, forming seams.
69
164000
2000
samo će se sastaviti, formirajući šavove.
03:01
So the color in this jacket is coming purely from green tea.
70
166000
3000
Boja ove jakne dolazi isključivo od zelenog čaja.
03:04
I guess it also looks a little bit like human skin,
71
169000
2000
Mislim da pomalo izgleda kao ljudska koža,
03:06
which intrigues me.
72
171000
3000
što me intrigira.
03:09
Since it's organic,
73
174000
2000
Pošto je organska, ja sam zaista zainteresovana
03:11
I'm really keen to try and minimize the addition of any chemicals.
74
176000
3000
da dovedem do minimuma dodavanje bilo kakvih hemikalija.
03:14
I can make it change color without using dye
75
179000
3000
Mogu da promenim boju bez korišćenja farbe
03:17
by a process of iron oxidation.
76
182000
2000
uz pomoć oksidacije gvožđa.
03:19
Using fruit and vegetable staining,
77
184000
2000
Koristeći voćne i biljne boje,
03:21
create organic patterning.
78
186000
2000
može se napraviti organska šara.
03:23
And using indigo,
79
188000
2000
A korišćenje indiga,
03:25
make it anti-microbial.
80
190000
2000
čini ga otpornim na mikrobe.
03:27
And in fact, cotton
81
192000
2000
Činjenica je da je pamuku
03:29
would take up to 18 dips in indigo
82
194000
3000
potrebno oko 18 potapanja u indigo
03:32
to achieve a color this dark.
83
197000
2000
ne bi li se postigla ovako tamna boja.
03:34
And because of the super-absorbency of this kind of cellulose,
84
199000
3000
I zbog super-upijajućih svojstava ove vrste celuloze,
03:37
it just takes one, and a really short one at that.
85
202000
3000
potrebno je samo jedno, vrlo kratko potapanje.
03:40
What I can't yet do is make it water-resistant.
86
205000
3000
Još uvek ne uspevam da učinim materijal otpornim na vodu.
03:43
So if I was to walk outside in the rain
87
208000
3000
I kada bih danas šetala po kiši
03:46
wearing this dress today,
88
211000
2000
noseći ovu haljinu,
03:48
I would immediately start to absorb
89
213000
2000
počela bih da upijam neverovatne
03:50
huge amounts of water.
90
215000
3000
količine vode.
03:53
The dress would get really heavy,
91
218000
2000
Haljina bi postala izuzetno teška,
03:55
and eventually the seams would probably fall apart --
92
220000
2000
i šavovi bi se verovatno razdvojili -
03:57
leaving me feeling rather naked.
93
222000
2000
ostavivši me nagu.
03:59
Possibly a good performance piece,
94
224000
2000
Verovatno odličan komad odeće za scenski nastup,
04:01
but definitely not ideal for everyday wear.
95
226000
3000
ali definitivno daleko od idealne graderobe za svakodnevicu.
04:05
What I'm looking for
96
230000
2000
Ono sto mene zanima jeste da pronađem način
04:07
is a way to give the material
97
232000
2000
kojim bih mogla da učinim materijal
04:09
the qualities that I need.
98
234000
2000
onakvim kakav je meni potreban.
04:11
So what I want to do is say to a future bug,
99
236000
3000
Ono što ja želim da uradim jeste da naredim nekoj bubi budućnosti,
04:14
"Spin me a thread.
100
239000
2000
"Ispleti mi niti,
04:16
Align it in this direction.
101
241000
2000
orijentiši ih na ovaj nacin.
04:18
Make it hydrophobic.
102
243000
2000
Učini ih otpornim na vodu.
04:20
And while you're at it,
103
245000
2000
I kada već sve to radiš
04:22
just form it around this 3D shape."
104
247000
3000
uradi to koristeći kao kalup ovaj 3D oblik."
04:25
Bacterial cellulose is actually already being used for wound healing,
105
250000
4000
Celuloza koju proizvode bakterije se već koristi pri lečenju rana,
04:29
and possibly in the future
106
254000
2000
a moguće je da ćemo je u budućnosti koristiti
04:31
for biocompatible blood vessels,
107
256000
3000
za pravljenje bio-kompatibilnih krvnih sudova,
04:34
possibly even replacement bone tissue.
108
259000
2000
ili čak kao zamenu za tkivo kostiju.
04:36
But with synthetic biology,
109
261000
2000
Ali, uz pomoć sintetičke biologije,
04:38
we can actually imagine engineering this bacterium
110
263000
4000
možemo da zamislimo proces u kome ćemo mi napraviti bakteriju
04:42
to produce something
111
267000
2000
koja bi proizvodila određenu stvar
04:44
that gives us the quality,
112
269000
2000
tačno određenog
04:46
quantity and shape
113
271000
2000
kvaliteta, količine i oblika
04:48
of material that we desire.
114
273000
2000
od materijala koji mi želimo.
04:50
Obviously, as a designer, that's really exciting
115
275000
3000
Očigledno, meni su te ideje, kao dizajneru, veoma uzbudljive.
04:53
because then I start to think, wow,
116
278000
2000
Jer ja tada počnem da razmišljam o tome
04:55
we could actually imagine
117
280000
2000
kako bismo mogli da zamislimo u principu
04:57
growing consumable products.
118
282000
3000
uzgajanje potrošnih materijala.
05:01
What excites me about using microbes
119
286000
3000
Najfascinantnija pojava kod korišćenja mikroba jeste
05:04
is their efficiency.
120
289000
2000
njihova efikasnost.
05:06
So we only grow what we need.
121
291000
2000
Tako da mi možemo da gajimo samo ono što nam je potrebno.
05:08
There's no waste.
122
293000
2000
Ne postoji otpad.
05:10
And in fact, we could make it from a waste stream --
123
295000
3000
I u principu, možemo to napraviti i od otpada,
05:13
so for example,
124
298000
2000
na primer,
05:15
a waste sugar stream
125
300000
2000
otpad šećera
05:17
from a food processing plant.
126
302000
2000
iz fabrike koja proizvodi hranu.
05:19
Finally, at the end of use, we could biodegrade it naturally
127
304000
3000
Konačno, na kraju svih upotreba proizvodi se raspadaju prirodnim putem
05:22
along with your vegetable peelings.
128
307000
3000
zajedno sa vašim otpadom od povrća.
05:25
What I'm not suggesting is that microbial cellulose
129
310000
3000
Ali ja nikako ne predlažem da će ovaj tip celuloze
05:28
is going to be a replacement
130
313000
2000
biti zamena
05:30
for cotton, leather or other textile materials.
131
315000
3000
za pamuk, kožu ili druge tekstilne materijale.
05:33
But I do think it could be quite a smart and sustainable addition
132
318000
4000
Ali mislim da poseduje potencijal da bude veoma pametan i održiv dodatak
05:37
to our increasingly precious natural resources.
133
322000
3000
našim sve dragocenijim prirodnim resursima.
05:40
Ultimately, maybe it won't even be fashion
134
325000
2000
Na kraju krajeva, možda nećemo baš u svetu mode
05:42
where we see these microbes have their impact.
135
327000
2000
videti najveći doprinos ovih mikroba.
05:44
We could, for example, imagine
136
329000
2000
Možemo, na primer, zamisliti
05:46
growing a lamp, a chair,
137
331000
3000
uzgajanje lampe, stolice,
05:49
a car or maybe even a house.
138
334000
3000
automobila ili možda čak i kuće.
05:52
So I guess what my question to you is:
139
337000
3000
Tako da je pitanje koje ja vama želim da postavim sledeće:
05:55
in the future, what would you choose to grow?
140
340000
2000
šta biste vi u budućnosti izabrali da gajite?
05:57
Thank you very much.
141
342000
2000
Hvala vam puno.
05:59
(Applause)
142
344000
9000
(Aplauz)
06:08
Bruno Giussani: Suzanne, just a curiosity,
143
353000
2000
Bruno Đijuzani: Suzan, samo trenutak,
06:10
what you're wearing is not random. (Suzanne Lee: No.)
144
355000
3000
ovo što Vi imate na sebi sada nije slučajnost. Suzan Li: nije.
06:13
This is one of the jackets you grew?
145
358000
2000
Ovo je jedna od jakni koju ste vi uzgojili?
06:15
SL: Yes, it is.
146
360000
2000
SL: Da, jeste.
06:17
It's probably -- part of the project's still in process
147
362000
2000
Verovatno je - deo projekta i dalje u toku
06:19
because this one
148
364000
2000
obzirom da se ova jakna
06:21
is actually biodegrading in front of your eyes.
149
366000
2000
raspada baš sada, pred vašim očima.
06:23
(Laughter)
150
368000
2000
(Smeh)
06:25
It's absorbing my sweat, and it's feeding on it.
151
370000
3000
Apsorbuje sada moj znoj i hrani se njime.
06:28
BG: Okay, so we'll let you go and save it, and rescue it.
152
373000
2000
BG: U redu, pustiću te sada da odeš i sačuvaš je, spaseš je.
06:30
Suzanne Lee. (SL: Thank you.)
153
375000
3000
Suzan Li: hvala.
06:33
(Applause)
154
378000
2000
(Aplauz)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Suzanne Lee - DesignerTED Fellow Suzanne Lee is a fashion designer turned biological conjurer, who gleefully plays with new materials and processes.
Why you should listen
Fashion designer Suzanne Lee directs the BioCouture research project, which sprang from an idea in her book Fashioning the Future: Tomorrow’s Wardrobe, a seminal text on fashion and future technologies. Her research harnesses nature to propose a radical future fashion vision: Can we grow a dress from a vat of liquid?
Using bacterial-cellulose, Lee aims to address pressing ecological and sustainability issues around fashion and beyond. A Senior Research Fellow at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, she is working with scientists to investigate whether synthetic biology can engineer optimized organisms for growing future consumer products
Suzanne Lee | Speaker | TED.com